Merc63

So 0.15 degrees of toe in the rear on a C63 is what you guys are doing Advanced?

I lowered mine and had the toe reduced to 0.20 I believe.

I think the lowest spec is 0.25. Which is still a fair amount compared to other cars.

DuaneC63

Hella cheaper than Pcar dog bones at $1,000 for four. Of course all the cost is in the ball ends.

mvagusta

I just lowered my c 63 coupe with H&R springs with 17 mm pads instead. It looks perfect. The rear and the front are even. I had a alignment at the mercedes dealership, they also installled the springs for me. I know the owner, so It reasonable for the job. I did have to buy bolts for the front end to get the toe or camber correct to factory spec's. The rear were good.

natman316

so from what I understand, there is really no performance gain from this set up and the negative camber cannot be readjusted, resulting in more tire eating? also, with this set up, will it shorten the life of the shocks?

I am interested in the lowering, but if its going to make the car handle worse at the limit, chew through tires more on the street and shorten the life of my shocks I wont do it. It does look good though.

BerBer63

there are adjustable camber bolts you can buy to replace non-adjustable bolts currently i think...i had them put in. THey are off the upper end models CLS/E/SL i believe, factory part

Thrilla

Do you guys have the part numbers to these camber bolts?

natman316

OEM camber bolts? nice.

do you have H&R springs? how are your shocks holding up

BerBer63

OEM Camber Bolts
000-333-09-71 / 000-333-10-71

I think its the one with the 000-333-10-71 in it. 59.99$ per set. These are for front wheels, you need 2 sets. Not sure how much camber adjustment you get, but I had them put in.

dubaudi

I don't understand why you guys all get the taller rear spring pads?? I installed my H&R springs last weekend (took about 3 hours to do myself) and I still wish the rear would go a little LOWER, not higher.

By the way, the ride is great. A little firmer then stock, but more comfortable...if that makes sense. It feels firmer on big dips on the road or big bumps, but over very small imperfections I actually feel like the H&R's make it a little less jarring then the factory springs.

AdvancePerformance

I would have to double check with the actual tech but we would try to go as close as possible to factory spec.

AdvancePerformance

We are trying to get a group buy going for K-Mac camber kits. The kits allow for adjustment to get the camber back to spec. The post is in the Vendor Group Buy section. We need 10 buyers to save on shipping overseas to the US.

hyunman

I'm clueless when it comes to alignment, but was hoping someone could confirm the following? From what I can see on these forums, I've gathered that:

1. It's not possible to reduce the negative rear camber that comes with lowering the C63 using H&R springs.

2. It's also not possible to adjust the rear camber even if you use coilovers (that is, without adjusting ride height).

3. The camber bolts people speak of on here will only allow adjusting the camber in the fronts and not the rears.

Is this correct? Thanks for your help

DuaneC63

When lowering a C63 you cannot adjust the rear camber regardless if you use just springs or "coil overs". However there are adjustable rear upper control arms that allow for camber adjustment (ACG in San Diego is one place to get them). For the front, camber bolts (factory) will work. The advantage of lowering springs is parts cost and retention of the stock spring pads which provide isolation of suspension noise. However your stock shocks are not designed to handle the stiffer rate of the lowering springs, will not perform as well, and the shocks will wear out faster. You also do not get much height adjustment ( just the amount allowed by changing spring pads). The parts cost for coil overs is higher, but the labor cost virtually the same. The one down side of coil overs is they do not utilize the spring pads and you will hear more suspension noise. I would suggest getting coil overs, front camber bolts, and rear upper control arms. Over time this will save you money in both parts and labor (tires and shocks). You will have some suspension noise, but that's what the loud pedal is for.

hyunman

Hey Duane thanks for giving me the run down on this. After I posted, I did find some threads talking about some aftermarket solutions such as Kmac(?) bushings and the upper arms you mentioned for adjusting camber. Just not sure if I want to go to such lengths.

I put about 2,000 miles on my car a year and might give it a whirl at a track maybe 1-2 times a year - nothing too hardcore. I'm thinking maybe the tire wear won't affect me all too much(?), and maybe the negative camber that I'm stuck with will be adequate for my purposes. I thought a lot about going the coilover route too. I had kw v3s on my m3 back in the day and loved them. But also know all the headaches that come with those. Didn't want to go through all that tinkering this time around, and don't even have the time to these days anyway.

Thanks again for clarifying this for me though - much appreciated

b3llmann

Hello,
can anybody tell me the item number of the 17mm rear spring pad? And just to clarify I do have a 13mm version when the car is stock? Thanks