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I don't think the car has any sensors to detect the "quality" of the fluid as some cars do for motor oil. I'd ask to see the data they say they pulled. Smells like BS. Does your car have the LSD?
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
saulgoodman your car is 4 years old. Service 8 - Replace rear differential fluid 60000km or 4 years. Service 20 - Automatic transmission - oil and filter change 60000km or 4 years. These services come up as part of your service reminder system in the car based on time or mileage and your car has met the time requirement. When service looks at the reminders in your car this is what they see.
I have a low mileage car and am waiting for the mileage limit to occur. Having said that the risk of any failures rests squarely on my shoulders. Is your warranty up? Can a future claim be denied because you did not follow the service schedule? The choice and the responsibility is up to you.
So if I have this straight, in a nutshell, the trans fluid change process looks like this:
Pull pan drain plug
Pull TC drain plug
Pull the pan, clean the pan, change filter, gaskets, etc...
Reinstall the pan and fill it through the drain hole
Check temp, fill it more.
Done.
Other than a thermometer and a special filler adapter, which I THINK could just be a pump with a slightly bent filler tube, what's so hard about this? Am I missing something?
So if I have this straight, in a nutshell, the trans fluid change process looks like this:
Pull pan drain plug
Pull TC drain plug
Pull the pan, clean the pan, change filter, gaskets, etc...
Reinstall the pan and fill it through the drain hole
Check temp, fill it more.
Done.
Other than a thermometer and a special filler adapter, which I THINK could just be a pump with a slightly bent filler tube, what's so hard about this? Am I missing something?
Couple things:
1) You have the MCT. No torque converter
2) You CANNOT just fill the pan with a pump and slightly bent filler tube. You need something that screws into the pan drain plug threads, as you must fill it once (overfill it, really), then let it run for 30-60 mins while it comes up to EXACT temp (45C) with this in place. I posted over in the "official" DIY thread about the adapter I made for $10, or if you plan to keep the car spend the $40 for the official adapter
3) You need to make sure the tranny pan itself is perfectly level after jacking up the car front and rear (I assume you don't have a lift). When I say level, I don't mean eyeball it and hope for the best: get a torpedo level from Home Depot, put it on the bottom of the pan, and make sure it's perfectly level after you raise it.
Couple things:
1) You have the MCT. No torque converter
2) You CANNOT just fill the pan with a pump and slightly bent filler tube. You need something that screws into the pan drain plug threads, as you must fill it once (overfill it, really), then let it run for 30-60 mins while it comes up to EXACT temp (45C) with this in place. I posted over in the "official" DIY thread about the adapter I made for $10, or if you plan to keep the car spend the $40 for the official adapter
3) You need to make sure the tranny pan itself is perfectly level after jacking up the car front and rear (I assume you don't have a lift). When I say level, I don't mean eyeball it and hope for the best: get a torpedo level from Home Depot, put it on the bottom of the pan, and make sure it's perfectly level after you raise it.
I knew about the MCT, I just figured the clutch pack was still in a separate housing. There's no separate drain on it?
Here is a tool to drain the converter for the C63. You can easily get past the oil cooler pipe and hook up a torque wrench. There will be a small error due to the arm created for the force, but you can be in range.
The torque converter drain screw came out opposing resistance just like a bolt secured with threadlocker.
I'm looking at it and can clearly see a compound on the threads.
Now the WIS calls for replacing this bolt. So I don't know if the replacement doesn't come with the threadlocker already applied.
It makes sense that a bolt that sees this much centrifugal force, as well as vibrations should be secured with threadlocker.
So I'm going to wire brush the threads and coat them with threadlocker blue.
I recall doing this with my old Mercedes W124, and this worked well.
So since this thread sends to other threads and people don't spend the time to hop threads, here are some things that are not clearly mentioned:
1, The formula of adding a quart to what you drained has the weak point that you may not have had enough oil in the first place.
2. Overfilling, then draining should work.
There is a Mercedes video that shows what to do with filling the 7 speed.
You're supposed to start the car on jackstands and wait till it warms up, but go through the gears too.
Of course Mercedes shows a very nice lift, not jackstands.
The viewing of the oil level is done with the car running, in park.
The video describes the level as being correct when: the flow is not solid anymore, but not really dripping yet "drips steady".
3. If you have a 2011, you could have the non MCT that is updated and have to make sure to get the right fluid and the green pipe/sleeve.
Finished recently the second transmission oil change.
The second time around, the torque converter drain plug had to be replaced, like the WIS calls for.
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