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No. In S+ with Sport Traction on. The shift AI has been good enough for me so far. Will go to M in the afternoon now that I have a feel for the track.
The Eurocharged V5 header tune downshifts out here are insane. Just ridiculous. 12.4-6 AFRs to redline in 4th.
Brand new Porterfields are quickly being eaten. Only thing that has me a little concerned. Temps look great so far.
I would love to know the results in manual mode.
Because in my C63, the LIMP MODE is set on the track in these lapses: In Sport mode takes about 10 minutes, but in Manual mode is activated in 8 or even 6 minutes.
I do not know how this related overheating engine oil with the intensive use of the transmission. Do any of you know the reason?
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by zcct04
What were ambient temps like at the track today?
It was 50 yesterday. Will be 60-65 today. Last session oil temps were still maxed out at 266. No higher.
Car pretty much ran like a dream, except I had a scare when I saw stuff leaking out of my wheel center caps. One was dislodged, and I hadn't seen that before. Turns out I had melted them! Took the front ones out, will have to get new o-rings for them. Front brakes/wheels obviously get extremely hot.
Also, the transmission doesn't seem to be super happy. During the last session, shifts in S+ were clunky and took longer. Probably just need to reset the adaptation, because in "C" mode after the day, shifts definitely felt like they were slipping at low speeds...
Am running the Porterfield R4-S street pads. WAY too soft for track duty. Am going to have to step it up to something similar to Pagid yellows because the Porterfields are just completely unacceptable. Really disappointed. Suggestions anyone?
Think it's safe to say that the blockoff plate works, because in theory I should have hit "limp mode" a long time ago. We will see today.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by ///RAMS
did you use the manual mode?
First two sessions today in manual mode, max oil temp 249. It's much better because I can be in the gear I want, without the stupid shift AI putting me for instance in 2nd, or using the trans to slow down. I think the trans was way overworked yesterday, the TCU wants to be in a much lower gear than necessary, and now I'm throwing code P374a. Car likes manual much better. I'm faster too.
First two sessions today in manual mode, max oil temp 249. It's much better because I can be in the gear I want, without the stupid shift AI putting me for instance in 2nd, or using the trans to slow down. I think the trans was way overworked yesterday, the TCU wants to be in a much lower gear than necessary, and now I'm throwing code P374a. Car likes manual much better. I'm faster too.
Amazing !.
What other changes have you done to your car for cooling ?. Is it only the plate?
I mean if you are using:
Cooling package 440
special oil
Larger oil cooler
and so on.
Interesting data - thank you so much for sharing. It sounds like the airguide helps drop oil temps by maybe 30 degrees? It also sounds like it can keep you out of limp mode except when it is really hot (maybe not over 80 deg F).
The more expensive oil cooling upgrade kept me at under 232 F oil temp on the track at 55 - 60 F external temperature (and with a BS bumper). And by the way, I drove with the air-conditioning on full cooling (not heating), as I was sweating in my helmet..... :-)
So two great options it sounds like - a lower cost, helpful upgrade brnging better robustness/a fix as long as it is coolish outside and a higher cost complete fix with the oil cooling upgrade.
I personally would not really like to see 260 F oil temperature - that is probably not good for oil life. I would change the oil after such a track day.
Last edited by Wobble64; Apr 28, 2015 at 06:16 PM.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I agree with you, will definitely change the oil as the thermal limit for the M1 0-40 before it starts degrading is in the high 260's.
Yesterday, never saw temps get above 258 using Manual mode. Clearly the cooling kit is the permanent and best solution for those who track their cars often. However if you're just interested in an occasional track day and just don't want to get shut down by "limp mode", then the blockoff plate is probably the best option.
As for me, I'll probably end up with the cooling kit as well. Happy I didn't see "limp mode", yes. But not thrilled with lap after lap in the 260's either.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Couple obligatory pics from Mon/Tue
Car was awesome. Couple of thoughts:
1. The blockoff plate was the perfect solution this time. The Glen is a high speed (140+ on the straights), high power track, with lots of heavy braking. Never got close to "limp mode", and in manual mode the car ran fairly cool in the 250's. We will see what hot weather does in June at NJMP.
2. The Porterfield R4S pads were NOT the right choice - more than half gone on new pads and significant fade after a few hot laps. Going to have to go with something more robust like Carbotech or Endless.
3. The auto transmission modes were unhappy after the day. Hoping all is ok. Manual mode works great still so I'll just stick with that for awhile.
4. Michelin PSS tires were surprisingly good for the task. Used a temp computer to get the tire pressures right, and ended up at 38psi cold F and 37psi cold R. No significant wear.
5. Melted the center caps of my front Vorsteiners. Will stick on some caliper temp strips for the next track day, as I'm concerned with how hot they are getting.
Other than that, the car was just awesome. For a heavy car, it's surprisingly good on track. Lap times were in the 2:23-2:32 range. The power on tap is amazing.
I agree, I have a feeling I know who you are talking about.
x3 except I'm not sure of the vendor exactly. But I don't like this at all this is what our forum should be about, members helping other members. Coming up with DIY Mods, tips or tricks doing things at home in the garage. The vendors will still come and pay because no matter what I can't make my own wheels, or my carbon parts, etc. so there will still be a demand for the vendors.
In addition it will build a better member community and attract more members because it has so much useful and helpful content on the forum. Vendor Specials, maybe everything but a group buy and thats it not a sale a group buy would go into the vendor section. No more vendor spam in ever forum, for the Moderators to sensor this guy but allow the amount spam these vendors spam and act the way they do and they pretty much just act like they are the real Moderators of this site.
I was curious about how the C63s used at the AMG Driving Academy are kept cool during spirite laps there. When I was at COTA this afternoon I looked under the hood of one of those C63s being used there. They have a large horizontal oil cooler right behind the splitter.
I sat through a presentation today about the W205. One of the things they found in testing was a problem with hot air pulled through the radiator when the car was not moving. The fan pushed hot air into the engine compartment where it got hotter still, and a portion of it spilled back over the top of the radiator and got pulled back through the radiator coils. This made it harder to keep an idling car cool. AMG has added a one-way flapper valve between the air intakes - it allows cool air to flow into the engine compartment when moving, and it stops hot air from reaching the front of the radiator when not moving.
I think the blocking plate discussed here does the same thing when idling.
The AMG Diving Academy C63s have had the oil cooling upgrade (called 44O) for over a year now. That is how MBUSA tested the kit before releasing it to the public.
The hotizontal, larger oil cooler is part of the package together with a larger wheel arch cooler.
The horizontal front cooler also cleans up the space before the radiator, and so enables more airflow through the transmission oil cooler and coolant radiator.
Thanks to all the guys, especially to the OP and those who did all the experimental work as I've been following this thread since it started as well as Wobble's BS cooling kit thread. Gonna give this radiator block off plate a try with just some simple plexiglass and have a friend cut it for me.
BTW, BLKROKT, if you want some good race pads, give Racing Brake a try. Well priced and even their 2nd most aggressive Race compound gave me plenty of stopping power with no fade at ORP in Oregon. Sadly, it wasn't the brakes that gave up that day.
Spent a couple hours on the track yesterday. Obligatory photo follows. The C63 wasn't QUITE as quick as the leaders, but it was only lagging the two fastest cars by a couple seconds a lap. I was impressed - and so were the other drivers.
Grand Sport Speedway, Hitchcock TX
I had temperature problems in the early sessions that I was eventually able to resolve. Running in S or S+ triggers a lot of impressively quick downshifts when cornering and braking. The result was a lot of time at high RPMs and that apparently generates a lot of heat. I was frequently seeing oil temps in the 278F range where spark advance started happening. I tried different traction control settings with no evident change. I ran the next session in C mode (what sort of idiot does "Comfort" on a race track??) and never saw anything over about 260F. The car is less aggressive about downshifts and, while it isn't as quite as dramatic to drive, it's more stable and I honestly don't think I was giving up any speed. I went back to S+ during the final session and was up to the high 270s within one lap. Going back to C quickly cooled things down. If you are tracking and having temp problems, this is certainly worth trying.
The other benefit was a bit less wheel spin on corner exits, which is causing the car to throw throttle position sensor errors, disabling stability control, and dropping the car into limp mode. More on that in a separate post.
Last edited by zcct04; May 24, 2015 at 11:58 PM.
Reason: correcting temps
Thanks for the post, hope you had fun! Most of what you write is in line with the experience of others, but the throttle position error is new. Sounds like a malfunction. I'll be looking for your other post.
Ok, this should get you FL guys started. It's not perfect (no ****ty comments), but make a template out of cardboard to test the fit and then go from there. Good luck.
I'm hoping to start on mine tomorrow. A couple questions:
I'm curious about how the plate is being held in place. It looks like the back edge is attached to the radiator support with tape. I've seen others use the area around the rod for the hood latch for support with a piece of tubing and a couple hose clamps. Is that what you did? Is there anything else keeping the blocking plate from lifting?
What's the relationship between the back of the grill and the front edge of the plate? Do they touch? Does the recess in the back of the grill line up well enough to provide any vertical support?
I see that you added some edge protection. Is that just cosmetic or does it a have another purpose? What material would you suggest for that?
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I'm curious about how the plate is being held in place. It looks like the back edge is attached to the radiator support with tape. I've seen others use the area around the rod for the hood latch for support with a piece of tubing and a couple hose clamps. Is that what you did? Is there anything else keeping the blocking plate from lifting?
Heavy Duty 3M double-sided tape or VHB for the top of the radiator support, then a piece of braided fuel hose above and below with clamps. I'll try to take a better picture of it for you today, because I made some changes to the design (I added an anti-lift plate per the original design).
What's the relationship between the back of the grill and the front edge of the plate? Do they touch? Does the recess in the back of the grill line up well enough to provide any vertical support?
Yes, the recess should line up. When the grill is in place the plate should slide into the gaps on the sides, and almost touch the flat part in front where the star emblem is. It's a trial-and-error to get the fit right, and will require a few test fits. Again, I'll take a better pic later today.
I see that you added some edge protection. Is that just cosmetic or does it a have another purpose? What material would you suggest for that?
I used Scotch 2228 Rubber Mastic Tape to cushion the edge to prevent rubbing and rattling.
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