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Generally wheel hop is going to be the rear diff moving around or possibly the entire subframe or both, hence the reason for lockdown kits or stiffer bushings - subaru and bmw guys all run lockdown kits to fix the issue.
You are also playing with the devil if you are really running summer tires at 15f (if you mean celsius then you are ok but in the low end of use) your 5P's should not be used under 45F/7C, Continental will deny warranty due to cracking as the rubber gets so hard below freezing it will damage the tires and probably end up killing someone as they are almost useless at low temps.
Yeah, the more I think about it the more I agree with your statement. In my mind the first thing to address would be the diff. Maybe some upgraded diff mounts are in order (know where I can get some).
As far as 5Ps in sub-freezing temps, I’ve thought about the possibility of cracking. It’s talked about a lot with motorcycle tires in regards to Q3’s and Battlax’s and the like but then I didn’t think the Conti 5P’s where that far down the performance lineup that cracks would be a significant risk in above 0F temps, plus they’re due to be replaced anyway. I’m not going to drive the car next week when the forecast says daytime highs in the single digits though. That seems like pushing it, even to me. As far as grip and safety, I leave ESP fully on unless I’m explicitly trying to do a slide or spin out from a stop, hence all the wheel hopping.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
It’s more about poor tire choice for conditions, tire and surface condition, level of grip and tire pressures than anything else. My subframe is completely solid and all other bushings are poly, and I still get wheel hop on occasion. Just learn how to modulate the gas and/or get your tires right for conditions.
(and you didn’t need to resurrect 2 separate 5yr old posts to get your point across by the way)
It’s more about poor tire choice for conditions, tire and surface condition, level of grip and tire pressures than anything else. My subframe is completely solid and all other bushings are poly, and I still get wheel hop on occasion. Just learn how to modulate the gas and/or get your tires right for conditions.
(and you didn’t need to resurrect 2 separate 5yr old posts to get your point across by the way)
Well maybe you need spherical bearings! Haha, just kidding! :P Sounds like you’ve been down the bushing path and that’s not the end all be all. I do need new tires, that’s why I’m trying to do burnouts, might as well learn on tires that are done anyway. I thought cold weather and summer tires would make burnouts a beeeze, go figure. I don’t want to blow up a diff or crack a subframe trying to use up some tires. Even I’m not that dumb.
And isnt it preferable to to resurrect old threads than start redundant new ones?
Generally wheel hop is going to be the rear diff moving around or possibly the entire subframe or both, hence the reason for lockdown kits or stiffer bushings - subaru and bmw guys all run lockdown kits to fix the issue.
You are also playing with the devil if you are really running summer tires at 15f (if you mean celsius then you are ok but in the low end of use) your 5P's should not be used under 45F/7C, Continental will deny warranty due to cracking as the rubber gets so hard below freezing it will damage the tires and probably end up killing someone as they are almost useless at low temps.
Same thought here on the tires if he is in fact running in 15F weather. The car will be all over the place. Get some cold weather rubber dude.
The only thing that truly cures wheel hop is a full polyurethane bushings conversion. Just doing a few bushing here & there will not cure it. This includes rear diff, rear control arms, trailing arms, camber arms, swaybar bushings, and most importantly the rear subframe bushings. Also Carbon fiber driveshaft will greatly alleviate these issues as well. The real cause of the wheel hop is very loose suspension geometry (Rubber bushings) and the two piece factory driveshaft with the center bearing attached to the chassis. Under extreme loads the two act together like a giant coiled spring that constantly is compressing too much and simultaneously needing release (Grip/hop/grip/hop).
Depending on on the car there are usually 8-12 bushings in the rear alone and typically roughly 6-10 up front depending. You don't have to replace the fronts to eliminate wheel hop but if you want to do it right might as well do the whole car.
Budget around $1200-1800 for the full car, extra $1800 for deiveshaft. It may sound pricey, but I swear it is the best money you will ever spend on your car for handling and traction.
We know the problem…. And not only have the solution for the excess twitch/flex/wheel hop experienced when applying power – especially when lane changing to overtake.
But also “resolving at the same time” the issue of only having Toe in/out (directional) adjustment OEM - no front Camber and Caster or rear Camber!
Essential to allow to change tire contact angles to cater for other than showroom height conditions…. day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, altered height through load carrying, lowering or fitting wide profile tires, worn bushings, correctly resolving steering pull or simply having the “ongoing” adjustment capability to cater for curb knock damage.
K-MAC rear performance bush kit – replaces all the bushings in the ‘6’ multi link rear arms (full product info see Page 15 K-MAC Mercedes Catalog):
#502628K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) bushing kit:
#502226K $480
Front Camber and Caster bushing kit:
#502616K $480
The ‘4’ front and ‘4’ rear adjuster kit bushings eliminate the highest wearing oil and air voided OEM bushes.
Front bushes are mono ball/2 axis design significantly improving brake and steering response. Both front and rear bushings also have more than twice the load bearing area.
K-MAC unique patented design allows precise “single wrench” adjustment on car accurately – under load direct on alignment rack. All kits are supplied with extraction/insertion tubes and instructions.
Also manufactured for all W204 models (with coil spring suspension) are front replacement top strut mounts also Camber and Caster adjustable. Recommended for additional adjustment on track days. Significantly reducing understeer, allowing to go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response.
Available in Stage 2 Street/Race #503016-2L $545
Stage 3 Full Race #503016-3L $545
These K-MAC kits are manufactured from the very highest aircraft grade aluminum, extra H/Duty self align spherical bearings (Stage 3 twice normal size) than H/Duty separate radial thrust bearings for steering loads, prevent spring drag/binding. Fit with OEM diam. springs or all brands of coil overs 60-70mm I.D. The patented design provides the biggest adjustment range and also the quickest/easiest to change settings.
Delivery $30 one kit or $20 each extra
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12-24-2017, 12:03 PM
