Time for 1st oil change...
#1
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Time for 1st oil change...
Just ordered up some Royal Purple Multi Grade Synthetic 5w40 and a WIX oil filter and am ready to change this oil...
Having said that, I am getting mixed messages on this forum about how to go about draining the oil.
From the top, or conventionally from the bottom drain plug, and if you go from the drain plug, how you have to replace the drain plug after every oil change...
Can I ask that the 1st hand experienced chime in here?
TIA
Having said that, I am getting mixed messages on this forum about how to go about draining the oil.
From the top, or conventionally from the bottom drain plug, and if you go from the drain plug, how you have to replace the drain plug after every oil change...
Can I ask that the 1st hand experienced chime in here?
TIA
#2
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
If you are doing your first oil change, drain it from the bottom not the top.
And drain it from both the oil pan, and oil cooler (near the bumper, passenger side, behind little rubber flaps, at least on the 09 model).
First oil changes should always be done from the bottom, while manufacturers do everything they can to make break in easy, and keep a clean inside, during the break in period there is always a chance of new engine bits and pieces (potentially metal shavings and such) to end up in the filter and oil. Even if modern cars no longer have this issue, there is no harm.
Also, typically if you drain from the top, there is about a quart of oil left in the cooler and pan (especially if you are not on a level surface).
And drain it from both the oil pan, and oil cooler (near the bumper, passenger side, behind little rubber flaps, at least on the 09 model).
First oil changes should always be done from the bottom, while manufacturers do everything they can to make break in easy, and keep a clean inside, during the break in period there is always a chance of new engine bits and pieces (potentially metal shavings and such) to end up in the filter and oil. Even if modern cars no longer have this issue, there is no harm.
Also, typically if you drain from the top, there is about a quart of oil left in the cooler and pan (especially if you are not on a level surface).
#3
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
I always do mine from underneath and drain the oil cooler as well. I only do mine once a year ~ 5000km and it is also my annual service.
So I suppose if you are doing an oil change between services then it makes sense to do it from the top and save yourself some time and aggravation.
If your are doing a full A or B service due to mileage or annual limits then I would do it from the underside. You will be doing a more complete and thorough job and you need to get it up on stands and take the underbelly pans off to do a proper inspection. Then you could still drain most of the oil from the top but drain the last bit and cooler from underneath to finish the job off properly.
So I suppose if you are doing an oil change between services then it makes sense to do it from the top and save yourself some time and aggravation.
If your are doing a full A or B service due to mileage or annual limits then I would do it from the underside. You will be doing a more complete and thorough job and you need to get it up on stands and take the underbelly pans off to do a proper inspection. Then you could still drain most of the oil from the top but drain the last bit and cooler from underneath to finish the job off properly.
#4
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I should clarify...
This is on an 09 with 40k. Not the cars first oil change, but as this was a pre-owned purchase, it will be the first time I change it personally.
Sorry for the misleading post.
This is on an 09 with 40k. Not the cars first oil change, but as this was a pre-owned purchase, it will be the first time I change it personally.
Sorry for the misleading post.
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#8
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Yeah for sure. I am doing an early oil change as I bought the car used an do not trust what they put in it at the dealer, if they changed it at all...? So this is about a 1k mile oil change. My temps now aren't really bad at all, but will see if this makes a difference.
#10
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B. Maybe your right, maybe I should rethink putting a non certified oil in my car... I researched it quite a bit and came to the conclusion that since I don't have a warranty to worry about, why not try it as it supposedly is a superior oil to Mobil 1. Maybe I was wrong for thinking this...?
I see this topic has been beaten to death but can anyone with real knowledge talk about this?
I personally formed the view that the certified formulas list was nothing more than a political statement, but maybe someone can prove me wrong.
Last edited by Autosport7; 11-13-2013 at 08:37 AM.
#11
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
Stick to an oil from this list (http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html) and you should be fine. Unfortunately Royal Purple is not on the list.
#13
Ya that list has enough selection, should be able to find one on there, if you wanna switch it up try the liquimoly . you must make sure the oil spec is 229.5 and should have a weight of 40 for this engine
#15
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I just got off the phone with an engineer from RP.
Not only are they claiming a superior product, they are also claiming superior dyno results from their products.
I am not an engineer with regard to oils so I am not going to try and repeat everything that was said, but I will say this...
It seems to come down to money and politics. You have to pay steep fees to be on that list and to be on that list they control the products in which your formula is made of and what suppliers you purchase them from.
I have all the confidence in the world that this product is superior and I will continue with my decision to run it.
Not only are they claiming a superior product, they are also claiming superior dyno results from their products.
I am not an engineer with regard to oils so I am not going to try and repeat everything that was said, but I will say this...
It seems to come down to money and politics. You have to pay steep fees to be on that list and to be on that list they control the products in which your formula is made of and what suppliers you purchase them from.
I have all the confidence in the world that this product is superior and I will continue with my decision to run it.
#16
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No one ever said their product was not a quality product. All we are stating is that MB has a specification. Feel free to follow it, or not, but if you have any warranty on your car, and you have to take it in for a warranty claim, be prepared to deal with a rejection if the issue is related to any lubricated moving parts.
#17
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No one ever said their product was not a quality product. All we are stating is that MB has a specification. Feel free to follow it, or not, but if you have any warranty on your car, and you have to take it in for a warranty claim, be prepared to deal with a rejection if the issue is related to any lubricated moving parts.
A. I get all MB parts at dealer cost.
B. I have my own personal MB certified master mechanics (2) at my disposal that make house calls, (typically free of charge as they are good close friends of mine.)
No warranty, flying by the seat of my pants... "Warranties are for those okay with going back to stock when something breaks. If it breaks, I will build it bigger!"
Last edited by Autosport7; 11-15-2013 at 09:22 AM.
#18
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2003 sl55
My take on it.
This is my experience with royal purple oil. I have run only their oil in my ford f-250. From the first oil change I noticed a measurable drop in rpm at 70 mph. When it came time to flush the tranny I decided to replace all lubricants with RP. Once this was done there was about a 500 rpm drop at 70mph. I'm sold. it will be in my sl next change. I however don't recommend anyone voids their warranty. Oh... by the way. there are 265,000 miles on that dinosaur truck.
#22
As I stated earlier, I used to be in the automotive industry. It makes it very nice to have friends in VERY high places at the local MB dealerships.
A. I get all MB parts at dealer cost.
B. I have my own personal MB certified master mechanics (2) at my disposal that make house calls, (typically free of charge as they are good close friends of mine.)
No warranty, flying by the seat of my pants... "Warranties are for those okay with going back to stock when something breaks. If it breaks, I will build it bigger!"
A. I get all MB parts at dealer cost.
B. I have my own personal MB certified master mechanics (2) at my disposal that make house calls, (typically free of charge as they are good close friends of mine.)
No warranty, flying by the seat of my pants... "Warranties are for those okay with going back to stock when something breaks. If it breaks, I will build it bigger!"
"I am an insider I trust no one" but "I have connections" topics.
Then just buy the recommended oil at cost then…. Seems to be cheaper than buying royal purple if you can get what you claim. And it would of stopped half the comments and *****ing that will go on here all day lol.
#23
This is my experience with royal purple oil. I have run only their oil in my ford f-250. From the first oil change I noticed a measurable drop in rpm at 70 mph. When it came time to flush the tranny I decided to replace all lubricants with RP. Once this was done there was about a 500 rpm drop at 70mph. I'm sold. it will be in my sl next change. I however don't recommend anyone voids their warranty. Oh... by the way. there are 265,000 miles on that dinosaur truck.
Its a fixed equation, if you drop the RPM at the engine you are going to drop in speed also, as the gears are fixed ratios so if you input 1000 RPM from an engine into the gear you will get out say 2000 RPM out, you can not have a drop in input RPM without a drop in output RPM thus a drop in speed unless you change the gear ratios.
#24
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"I am an insider I trust no one" but "I have connections" topics.
Then just buy the recommended oil at cost then…. Seems to be cheaper than buying royal purple if you can get what you claim. And it would of stopped half the comments and *****ing that will go on here all day lol.
Then just buy the recommended oil at cost then…. Seems to be cheaper than buying royal purple if you can get what you claim. And it would of stopped half the comments and *****ing that will go on here all day lol.
Even with discounts, I will still run RP as I believe it to be a superior product.
#25
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...al-purple.html
Guy sent his oil for independent lab testing, compared RP to Mobile 1.
"as I believe"
Numbers and evidence is all I care about, be it tuners who mislead by posting non corrected numbers to make it seem like they are pumping out more HP, to what type of oil we throw in our cars. Debate is good, it prevents future failures for some.