C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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AMG 19" Multi Spoke Wheels and Questions

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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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canook's Avatar
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2013 C63
AMG 19" Multi Spoke Wheels and Questions

Hi Everyone,


I'm new the forum and apologise if I have posted in the wrong forum.
I could use some advice if you are willing to help.


I have a 2013 C63 (W204 I think) with the performance upgrade and 19" multi spoke wheels. I have had the car for a year now and need to replace the tires.


I think I am going to try the Pirelli P Zero's and I wanted to know if the tires I chose will fit the rear wheels.


Front - 235/35/19
Rear - 275/30/19


I know the tires will not throw out the speed odometer but am concerned if the width of the wheels will match.


I also have two issues with the car that MB seem unable to rectify.


A constant pulling to the left...but dramatically not a sort of drift and when they switch the front wheels the car drives straight. They said I could put a castor bolt but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.


The other problem I have and have ha it since day one was a thump and even a delay when going from reverse to drive. It seems to do it a lot when the car is warm and sometimes I can reverse and when placed in drive I can literally wait for a second or two before it decides to engage.


I have complained about both problems to MB since day one and mentioned them at my 1000km and 6 month service and will do so again at my next service.


Thank you in advance for your help.


Ian
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 11:46 PM
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2013 C63
I just remembered another thing...not sure if it is a problem though.
Sometimes when I start the car it sounds like something is loose in the engine and there is a sort of rattle.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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'12 C63 Black Series, '12 ML350 BlueTech
What part of the world are you?

With stock height/suspension you will have no problem running these tire sizes. Michelin PSS is a good rubber for street driving. I never experienced pirelli so cannot give you feedback on those.
As for your alignment MB is maybe not in the wrong suggesting camber bolts. The general advice is to get an alignment according to specs then check. Eventually use camber bolts to fine tune if you are still not satisfied. There is nothing wrong using these bolts.
Not too sure about your tranny problem. If it is a problem at all! What are you comparing it to? I never really pay attention to the time elapsed between Reverse -> Drive gear change. Is it a noise problem? What is important are your shifting points from 1 to 7. So whether or not going from R to D is kind of slow for you it won't affect the performance of your car in my opinion.
Finally your rattling noise is difficult to troubleshoot over the net and without any video.
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by canook
Hi Everyone,

A constant pulling to the left...but dramatically not a sort of drift and when they switch the front wheels the car drives straight. They said I could put a castor bolt but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.

Ian






Since the mid 90s model’s, there has been no accurate Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!

Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull the only alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts.

But these are inaccurate one only position bolts with a minuscule .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).

After installation it's no wonder many owners then go on to stating dealerships or alignment shops still did not get it right/fix the problem.

We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike the bolts can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to jack and reinstall each time).

Ongoing precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels or for curb knock damage with the unique K-MAC patented design is just a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike adjustable arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to reduce premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.

Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.

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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 02:53 AM
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Thank you Abcut973, I live in Australia.


My car is factory spec and I am happy the way it is for now. Will the 275/30/19's rub and if I do put them on should I increase the width of the front to 245/35/19 or can I leave the existing 235/35/19?


I was comparing the behaviour of the gear box to my old BMW. I simply thought it was odd that I can put the car into D and step on the gas and the engine revs. Sometimes is may make a small clunk but very rarely.


I will try and get a video of the car starting so you can hear the rattle... Funny thing is, it only does it once in a while, kind of sounds like loose valves or something.


Would you be able to tell me why there is a delay when shifting gears with paddles?


Sorry for all the questions. I love my car and would like to know why certain things happen to it.


Thanks again
Ian
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