507 on H&Rs - Fronts rubbing with stock tires for some reason
#1
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
507 on H&Rs - Fronts rubbing with stock tires for some reason
I searched the below threads to confirm I shouldn't have an issue, however an issue still exists.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...r-fitment.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...questions.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...r-fitment.html
Here's the setup - Stock size tires (Michelin PSS), H&R lowering springs, 12mm spacers all the way around, trimmed/smoothed inner-fender lips.
The fronts rub what sounds like the fender liner (not the lip - tire sidewalls are unscathed) while driving through reasonable dips at reasonable speeds. I will say that my camber up front is a bit aggressive (but has been aligned), but I would think that would help prevent rubbing more than anything else. Keep in mind this is on 507 19"s.
Any ideas? Thanks!
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...r-fitment.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...questions.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...r-fitment.html
Here's the setup - Stock size tires (Michelin PSS), H&R lowering springs, 12mm spacers all the way around, trimmed/smoothed inner-fender lips.
The fronts rub what sounds like the fender liner (not the lip - tire sidewalls are unscathed) while driving through reasonable dips at reasonable speeds. I will say that my camber up front is a bit aggressive (but has been aligned), but I would think that would help prevent rubbing more than anything else. Keep in mind this is on 507 19"s.
Any ideas? Thanks!
#2
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12mm spacers gives you +33 offset in front if I'm not wrong.
Are these 9x19 up front or 8x19?
What tire size 235 or 245?
Could be a bit too aggressive?
I am +40 on 8.5x19, 245/35 PSS and with H&R springs I was not rubbing.
Are these 9x19 up front or 8x19?
What tire size 235 or 245?
Could be a bit too aggressive?
I am +40 on 8.5x19, 245/35 PSS and with H&R springs I was not rubbing.
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C63 507, 911 Carrera, Range Rover, Disco
You have to figure out where it is rubbing first via witness marks (use tape)...then you can adjust. If inner you may need less camber, if outer you may need more camber or less spacer, if top, you may be too low.
You cannot adjust unless you know where exactly and under what conditions you get rub...
You cannot adjust unless you know where exactly and under what conditions you get rub...
#4
fwiw - I am running H&R springs on my 507 sedan w/ 12mm front, 10mm rear spacers on stock 19s with no rubbing.
However, I do have Conti's (~30% left) instead of PSS. Looking at tire rack, the tread width for Conti is 9.5" and PSS is 10".
Also, in my research it seemed 12mm spacers would rub in the rear with OEM 19's. Are you not rubbing in the rear? Do you have the 17mm spring pad installed?
However, I do have Conti's (~30% left) instead of PSS. Looking at tire rack, the tread width for Conti is 9.5" and PSS is 10".
Also, in my research it seemed 12mm spacers would rub in the rear with OEM 19's. Are you not rubbing in the rear? Do you have the 17mm spring pad installed?
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Zero rubbing from the rear, lowered with 12mm spacers.
Update: I swapped the 12mm spacers (up front) for 10mm spacers and it still rubs but just less.
Any ideas?
Update: I swapped the 12mm spacers (up front) for 10mm spacers and it still rubs but just less.
Any ideas?
#7
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Then start playing with spacer sizes.
The springs and shocks won't all settle at the same height so while one person might not have an issue another might... And these are all based off of fractions of an inch.
Does it rub all the time? Or rarely and just under extreme conditions?
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Good point Parker:
So this is literally at the upper most portion of the fender liner.
Rubbing
After driving it around more, I still feel the same, the 10mm spacer up front definitely helps, but doesn't stop it entirely. Perhaps I should get an 8mm and see what happens. Taking it out entirely would look ridiculous - couldn't even imagine how bad it'd look lol.
Camber - Can one adjust camber on these cars? The alignment guy said the camber isn't adjustable is why I ask. I did mention adjusting the camber too because it does look like it has quite a bit of positive camber and I feel that would position the outer most edge of the tire to sit slightly higher than the rest of the tire causing it to hit maybe. Thoughts on this?
So this is literally at the upper most portion of the fender liner.
Rubbing
After driving it around more, I still feel the same, the 10mm spacer up front definitely helps, but doesn't stop it entirely. Perhaps I should get an 8mm and see what happens. Taking it out entirely would look ridiculous - couldn't even imagine how bad it'd look lol.
Camber - Can one adjust camber on these cars? The alignment guy said the camber isn't adjustable is why I ask. I did mention adjusting the camber too because it does look like it has quite a bit of positive camber and I feel that would position the outer most edge of the tire to sit slightly higher than the rest of the tire causing it to hit maybe. Thoughts on this?
#9
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remember the Michelin tires are stiff so they do not give so much which can cause rubbing.
Now decreasing the spacer slightly will help but I do not think it will stop it entirely.
sounds weird though.
and you said alignment was been corrected ?
Now decreasing the spacer slightly will help but I do not think it will stop it entirely.
sounds weird though.
and you said alignment was been corrected ?
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Good point Parker:
So this is literally at the upper most portion of the fender liner.
Rubbing
After driving it around more, I still feel the same, the 10mm spacer up front definitely helps, but doesn't stop it entirely. Perhaps I should get an 8mm and see what happens. Taking it out entirely would look ridiculous - couldn't even imagine how bad it'd look lol.
Camber - Can one adjust camber on these cars? The alignment guy said the camber isn't adjustable is why I ask. I did mention adjusting the camber too because it does look like it has quite a bit of positive camber and I feel that would position the outer most edge of the tire to sit slightly higher than the rest of the tire causing it to hit maybe. Thoughts on this?
So this is literally at the upper most portion of the fender liner.
Rubbing
After driving it around more, I still feel the same, the 10mm spacer up front definitely helps, but doesn't stop it entirely. Perhaps I should get an 8mm and see what happens. Taking it out entirely would look ridiculous - couldn't even imagine how bad it'd look lol.
Camber - Can one adjust camber on these cars? The alignment guy said the camber isn't adjustable is why I ask. I did mention adjusting the camber too because it does look like it has quite a bit of positive camber and I feel that would position the outer most edge of the tire to sit slightly higher than the rest of the tire causing it to hit maybe. Thoughts on this?
I had the same problem on both front corners with 245/35/19 Michelin PSS and just went back down to 235/35/19. The right front is giving me more problem than the left and I have adjustable camber and caster bushings that change the position of the wheel in the wheel well. It has been a huge learning experience and I am still working on it to get the stance I want without rubbing. My fenders have certainly been abused and show the signs of it a little. My front wheels are 19x8.5 +ET 44 and I had no problem rubbing until I put on a 10mm spacer to make the tire more flush to the fender. Then I changed the alignment specs and this changed the placement of the wheel in the well and things got complicated. Now running the downsized tires without spacers and have no rubbing issues but would like to see if I can get more flush. On it goes.
GL
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Are you running 235/35/19 Michelin PSS? You say stock size in the first post but did not confirm the actual tire size. The camber is not adjustable on the front with stock suspension. There are camber bolts you can buy that will allow a small adjustment on the front. They are a small plus or minus adjustment from what you have now. It does not look like camber adjustment will fix your rubbing issue. Is your rubbing problem only on the right front? Being lowered your front camber will already be more negative (not positive) from stock. It looks to me you will need to raise the right front back up a little bit to solve your rubbing issue. Not really sure why that corner lowered more than H&R spec. Maybe you can devise a spacer for the top of the spring to lift that corner back up a bit.
I had the same problem on both front corners with 245/35/19 Michelin PSS and just went back down to 235/35/19. The right front is giving me more problem than the left and I have adjustable camber and caster bushings that change the position of the wheel in the wheel well. It has been a huge learning experience and I am still working on it to get the stance I want without rubbing. My fenders have certainly been abused and show the signs of it a little. My front wheels are 19x8.5 +ET 44 and I had no problem rubbing until I put on a 10mm spacer to make the tire more flush to the fender. Then I changed the alignment specs and this changed the placement of the wheel in the well and things got complicated. Now running the downsized tires without spacers and have no rubbing issues but would like to see if I can get more flush. On it goes.
GL
I had the same problem on both front corners with 245/35/19 Michelin PSS and just went back down to 235/35/19. The right front is giving me more problem than the left and I have adjustable camber and caster bushings that change the position of the wheel in the wheel well. It has been a huge learning experience and I am still working on it to get the stance I want without rubbing. My fenders have certainly been abused and show the signs of it a little. My front wheels are 19x8.5 +ET 44 and I had no problem rubbing until I put on a 10mm spacer to make the tire more flush to the fender. Then I changed the alignment specs and this changed the placement of the wheel in the well and things got complicated. Now running the downsized tires without spacers and have no rubbing issues but would like to see if I can get more flush. On it goes.
GL
Rubbing issue is on both sides, although I tend to feel the driver side hits more often than the passenger side.
#12
Hmm wish I had more suggestions. We’re running nearly identical setups for suspension on 507 sedans, yet I have no rubbing. Some differences:
I also drive in climate with avg low-mid 70s temp. Tires would expand a bit in hotter temps.
- I have stock Contisport, you have PSS (tread width known to be less on Conti)
- I have 17mm rear spring pads (not sure if you do), though I ran with stock 13mm rear pads before and didn’t rub then either. Thus, not a likely contributor
- I’ve not gotten an alignment since lowering the car (or ever). Not sure if you’ve made adjustments here. And, not sure if they come from the factory with slight variation on alignment or if it’s razor accurate across same model
- H&R Sport Springs (0.75” drop all around) with part number: 29028-1 (purchased new)
- 19” OEM wheels (black 507 wheels)
- 255/30/19 (rear) and 235/35/19 (front) contisport with about 30% life remaining
- H&R 12mm spacers (front) with part number: 2455665 (purchased new)
- H&R 10mm spacers (rear) with part number: 2055665 (purchased new)
- Longer 40mm black bolts, with the rear bolts shaved 2mm to not interfere with parking brake. All torqued to spec (~97 ft/lbs)
I also drive in climate with avg low-mid 70s temp. Tires would expand a bit in hotter temps.
Last edited by ld63; 07-19-2014 at 06:31 PM.
#13
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Do you have the correct part # on your springs? I know mine are dark grey color and not purple like yours but they may have changed some since I bought mine. The correct part # 29028-1 is on the spring if you can see it.
#14
Make sure it's the right part
Installed correctly. Pads, top bushing/seat, spring on perch, etc
Correct front vs right, don't laugh I've seen it
Bump stop!!!
Can you measure the ride height
Floor to fender lip centerline of the wheel
Should be 25.25" or so
Take some pics of the installed spring
Something doesn't look right
Supossed to be a seat on the top
http://www.mbonlineparts.com/parts/2...iagram=5777184
Last edited by Ingenieur; 07-19-2014 at 08:59 PM.
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Hmm wish I had more suggestions. We’re running nearly identical setups for suspension on 507 sedans, yet I have no rubbing. Some differences:
I also drive in climate with avg low-mid 70s temp. Tires would expand a bit in hotter temps.
- I have stock Contisport, you have PSS (tread width known to be less on Conti)
- I have 17mm rear spring pads (not sure if you do), though I ran with stock 13mm rear pads before and didn’t rub then either. Thus, not a likely contributor
- I’ve not gotten an alignment since lowering the car (or ever). Not sure if you’ve made adjustments here. And, not sure if they come from the factory with slight variation on alignment or if it’s razor accurate across same model
- H&R Sport Springs (0.75” drop all around) with part number: 29028-1 (purchased new)
- 19” OEM wheels (black 507 wheels)
- 255/30/19 (rear) and 235/35/19 (front) contisport with about 30% life remaining
- H&R 12mm spacers (front) with part number: 2455665 (purchased new)
- H&R 10mm spacers (rear) with part number: 2055665 (purchased new)
- Longer 40mm black bolts, with the rear bolts shaved 2mm to not interfere with parking brake. All torqued to spec (~97 ft/lbs)
I also drive in climate with avg low-mid 70s temp. Tires would expand a bit in hotter temps.
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Agree camber or space won't help
Make sure it's the right part
Installed correctly. Pads, top bushing/seat, spring on perch, etc
Correct front vs right, don't laugh I've seen it
Bump stop!!!
Can you measure the ride height
Floor to fender lip centerline of the wheel
Should be 25.25" or so
Take some pics of the installed spring
Something doesn't look right
Supossed to be a seat on the top
http://www.mbonlineparts.com/parts/2...iagram=5777184
Make sure it's the right part
Installed correctly. Pads, top bushing/seat, spring on perch, etc
Correct front vs right, don't laugh I've seen it
Bump stop!!!
Can you measure the ride height
Floor to fender lip centerline of the wheel
Should be 25.25" or so
Take some pics of the installed spring
Something doesn't look right
Supossed to be a seat on the top
http://www.mbonlineparts.com/parts/2...iagram=5777184
Front Driver - 25.25
Front passenger - 25.375
#18
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Since the mid 90 model’s, there has been no Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull, increase/decrease negative Camber the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts. But these are inaccurate one only position bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).
It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem.
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these offset bolts they can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to remove and reinstall each time).
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike the alternative adjustable Camber arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Also at K-MAC we have developed long life maintenance free elastomer bushings with just the right amount of flex to get power to the ground, maximum traction. Unlike the spherical bearings used in Camber arms that soon pound out allowing metal to metal contact.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
#20
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'14 C63 "Edition 507"; '02 Widebody WS6 Trans Am ~ 1,200hp (kills everything)
Since the mid 90 model’s, there has been no Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull, increase/decrease negative Camber the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts. But these are inaccurate one only position bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).
It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem.
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these offset bolts they can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to remove and reinstall each time).
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike the alternative adjustable Camber arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Also at K-MAC we have developed long life maintenance free elastomer bushings with just the right amount of flex to get power to the ground, maximum traction. Unlike the spherical bearings used in Camber arms that soon pound out allowing metal to metal contact.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull, increase/decrease negative Camber the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts. But these are inaccurate one only position bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).
It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem.
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these offset bolts they can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to remove and reinstall each time).
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike the alternative adjustable Camber arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Also at K-MAC we have developed long life maintenance free elastomer bushings with just the right amount of flex to get power to the ground, maximum traction. Unlike the spherical bearings used in Camber arms that soon pound out allowing metal to metal contact.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Weird to see u have rubbing with 12mm & even 10mm in the front.
I've been running 12mm with 235/35/19 Yokos AVS no problem lowered on h&r too. But I never had an alignment.. So maybe it has smth to do with it?
I've been running 12mm with 235/35/19 Yokos AVS no problem lowered on h&r too. But I never had an alignment.. So maybe it has smth to do with it?