Another owner here with H&R springs. Yep, pulls to the right pretty hard if I let off the wheel.

It's not bothered me enough to fix it in 6 or so months since lowering. The plan has been to get KW V3s, at which point I'll likely get an alignment.

post alignment specs. Just because things are in "green" doesnt mean they are good. road surface, road crown and tires are very important considerations as well as the alignment.

FACT IS THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT OEM!


Camber or fluted bolts are inaccurate one position offering a minimal .3 of one degree (3mm / 1/8”).


Extra/full precise adjustment is what is needed to return vehicle to factory specs to correctly resolve steering pull, costly premature inner edge tire wear, curb knock damage along with improving hi-speed directional control, and steering response. With less dive/lift on brake/acceleration. Essential also if altering height, fitting wide profile tires/rims


We saw the need therefore to restore from the 1990’s full front and rear adjustment capability.



Front Camber and Caster. Rear Camber (with extra Toe) adjustment. The K-MAC patented designs allow ongoing precise adjustment on car (accurately under load direct on alignment rack). Unlike the fluted bolts which require labour intensive disassembly each time.


Result - no more constant changing tire brands or visits to alignment shops!

Anyone have any issues with a clunking noise by the front going over bumps at low speeds?

How long is it taking to install the H&R springs? Having to do it in the garage instead of the auto hobby shop lift due to mechanical issues. I've changed several sets of springs on various cars, but not on an MB. Just curious to get an idea of time so I can get the necessary tools together. Thanks in advance.

Huch

It will take 4 to 8 hours. I think it took me 6 first try. On the front you need to take the springs off the struts (which I had never done before) and on the rear you need to drop the exhaust some to get the rear lower control arm bolt out. Make sure you have a good spring compressor. I had to figure out how to do all this so that took a little time and head scratching. Just pop the donuts off the exhaust hangers and it will drop just enough to get the bolt out over the top of the pipe. Put it back in from the front so it is not a problem next time. I used a 23" mechanics pry bar to work the donuts off and back on. Makes relatively easy work of it. Put jack stands under the mufflers to take up some of the strain on the forward parts of the exhaust. GL

^^ this man knows his car.

My shop also told me about the exhaust being in the way of the rear suspension.

lol my car pulls to the right after putting my H&Rs on! We've aligned it twice and it still does it

Had mine installed around a week ago and haven't realigned yet (still letting it settle) and it still tracks straight and doesn't pull to any side. Will do alignment again soon tho.

You are fortunate and will likely only need a small toe adjustment. There is no other adjustment on the C63 front or rear without swapping in new bolts on the front so you are lucky if it is not pulling right.

It is a bit of an art to adjust for the pull and not all alignment techs have it. You might have to find another shop that understands the process. Did they try the adjustment bolts? They only add or subtract a fixed amount from the OEM setting. Try getting them to set the caster more positive on the passenger side and see if that works. That is the same setting that would be used to counteract roads with a lot of crown built into them to get water to run off the road surface during heavy rains. GL

i actually bought the recommended bolts that a few people mentioned in here to pre-emp the alignment. will see if they're needed when i get it done.

part number: 000-333-10-71

Same here, installed mine 4 years ago & never had an aligment .. Drives in rails!

You realize the extra toe from the drop will prematurely wear your tires right?

^^ yes but I drive my car 2k km a year & had 6 different sets of wheels/tires in 5 years so tire wears is not an issue for me lol

Waaaay cheaper to just get an alignment you know

It took me and my buddy about 2 hours on a lift. We also didn't have to remove any other bolts or hardware to access the springs. We did have a spring compressor mounted on the wall that made things a bit easier, however the pulling issue is very noticeable.

The alignment reads as fine but it still pulls. We allowed the springs time to settle but it still pulls to the right. Alignment machine still reads fine. I'm calling H&R to discuss this and will remove them if we can't sort it out. I'm running the Texas Mile in two weeks and don't want to deal with this issue then. There are more options with springs so not an issue for me if they aren't H&R springs . Just my two cents.

very very strange. I am running H&Rs for more than a year - never pulled in any direction. Could'nt be happier. However, there are enough reports to be concerning. Please do share what you learn.

I keep reading these comments that say if the install is done correctly then there should not be any pull at all. This is a pretty lame statement because firstly there can't be this many spring installs performed by experienced shops having the same identical problem. The second thing is there isn't really anything in the spring install in itself that can be incorrectly done. Sure I guess if you've never done this before then maybe you shouldn't be doing this work.

For a reasonably experienced car person this is pretty simple. I'm still not sure why the exhaust bolts needed to be removed. We did mine on a lift and it was pretty straight forward.

Ok, so I just spoke with H&R and this guy Michael didn't seem to have much knowledge on springs in general, but he said they hadn't heard about this problem. I told him he should maybe head to this forum and do a little reading as it isn't a new problem. He basically said get camber adjustment bolts or remove the springs. I'm thinking what a load of horsecrap. So now I'm going to look at something else and see what happens. I'll keep youse guys In the loop there.

Sorry to hear about ur pulling Huchi, it must be indeed frustrating.. But I still believe the new longer bolts should fix ur problem. Like Mort said, w/o blaming ur aligment tech, getting the aligment right is almost an art for this car. Try the bolts first, if it fails then sell the springs.. But there isn't many options for springs for our cars. I don't think Eibach makes it for the C63.

Mine still pulls a lot to the right after 3 alignments. I'm gonna have to check the control arms at the dealership

If you are going to run the Texas Mile I personally think I would pull them anyways, as I find them a little.......floaty. Of course, I came off a set of P30 springs, and those have all the plushness of a stack of hockey pucks Ive never driven on a runway, but Ive always been of the impression that they are a series of slight undulations for drainage purposes and I would prefer something stiffer than the H&Rs at that speed/distance.

Oh, and as to your original question - no pull here.

If my car isnt pulling right then guess what? It isn't pulling right. I know my car just a tad better than you and that's all I have to say about that ..

Yep I just posted a response to that as well. Some folks believe they know much more than what reality will allow. But hey he's welcome to say almost whatever he wants-we won't argue that he's wrong. Ok I will. I will. He's wrong. .. Ba Da Bing. Be Da Boom ...

I don't know who u are replying to, but I think everyone here is trying to help u find the cause & a solution to ur pulling.

As I suggested, my friend resolved his pulling by installing the longer aligment bolts, if that fails then u don't have much choice then to remove the springs & buy Coilovers but be aware some ppl also have pulling on Coilovers.

Eibach only makes springs for regular C unfortunately.