torqueisfun

I went to a novice autocross school here in Phoenix on saturday. Let me start by saying that I had a great time. Alas, the old girl just isn't the ideal car for tight course racing. She sounded awesome and flexed some muscle but when push came to shove, she both pushed and slid.
I have the MPSS tires and they are pretty new. After about 3 almost back to back runs, they were very hot and getting a little slippery. I used the sport traction control setting because it was a dusty surface and I'd have been backwards quite often. It was all 2nd gear stuff and it did give me a much better idea what she is capable of doing. Many of the quicker cars were on R compound tires and set up for auto crossing. There was an R8 there on gumball sticky tires that was impressive. No noise or slip, just grip. Anyway, it was a good time. Anybody else here autocross their C63 much?

johnny--2k

This car is definitely not the ideal auto-x car, but with the right setup, it could absolutely be a solid competitor.

On that note, an auto-x is a GREAT place to push your car safely and really understand it's dynamics and capabilities to keep you more alert and in-tune on the street. My old auto-x car was my S2000 and that car was a BLAST on the course! This car is more of a road course car for sure!

Sounds like you had fun though, and that's what it's all about!

AMG Boost

I have autox my c63 a few times. It is great fun for sure and a great place to learn your cars behavior and limits. But as we all know it is not well suited for Autox. To big and heavy.

torqueisfun

True, it really does punish the tires. Those friggin little Miatas with their R compound tires just smoke those tight courses. However, they just don't have the sound. Everyone there commented on how good the C63 sounded.

rentzington

sounds like you had fun, like others said the c63 isnt ideal for this kind of racing but i'd love to get mine down to the COTA track and have a go

glennhl

I had a blast in my C63 when they ran the Bondurant south course this past summer. I was actually quite surprised how good the C63 handled.

SaphGreyC63

I am autocrossing the C63 this weekend. I know it's not the ideal car but I am out there to have fun more than anything.

Any advice on tire pressures? I am running stock 18s.

MJ50

more fun at HPDE....

Bazman

Good on you, good fun!

Yeah - I find the C63 coupe pushes on tight turns - front just does not want to turn so you either have to go in slower (to come out quick).... or power the back out to turn the front in (not the fastest way - but looks and sounds good).

I'm going to get kmac adjustable camber for the front so I can turn in better on track days, then adjust back to stock for street.

Lucky you didn't have to do more laps - it would have gone into limp mode.... they get hot quick at lower speeds. I'm going to upgrade to Black Series engine and trans coolers.

torqueisfun

SaphGreyC63, sorry I didn't answer you sooner. I ran 46 in the front and 44 in the rear. The wear pattern looked about right at those pressures.

SaphGreyC63

No problems.

Ran it Saturday and like you said, definitely not the ideal tool for the job. Gave one of the more experienced people a go in it (the guy had won alot of championships and had an absolutely sick Evo there in addition to 3 other cars) and he managed a 63.XXX run in it (best I did that day was 67.130). Was feeling bad about my times since much "weaker" cars were putting down times in the low 60s (fastest "car" of the day was 45.xxx, but there was a stock Nissan 370Z putting down 55.xxx and honda s2000 stock doing about the same times).

Overall though, I started off the day at 74 seconds and every lap after that my times kept decreasing. It made me much more intimate with my cars handling as I started off the day in sport for the traciton setting which resulted in alot of traction control cutting power and ended the last few laps with it off without spinning out (had a few slides but I recovered in time). I think I will be attending many more autocrosses just to drop the time and to have fun, need to find myself a set of beater rims and put some semi-slicks on there, that should drop my time by a couple seconds at least as my tires were giving me ZERO grip.

Also hope to have GoPro out there next time to record myself. Overall I had a blast and met some great people and got to see alot of cool cars.

Stickstome2

I have a 2014 that I tried to track ' not auto cross but road corse for a hpde event. And after 6 minutes it went into limp mode at 278 degrees on the oil. So I upgraded to the code 440 cooling package the amg puts on the black series and there track cars ' and tonight I'll find out if it helped . It's now 11 quarts

Stickstome2

440 cooling package works. Never got above 260 . And it was 90 degrees outside .

K-Mac

Street or Track - We manufacture a “TOTAL SYSTEM” including Camber and Caster front replacement top mounts to suit virtually all coil spring “strut” suspension model Mercedes.

For Example W204 including Black Series W205, W212, W220, W209 (Black Series), R129, C124. Also latest A, B, CLA, GLA Models.

CHECKLIST BACKGROUND:
The K-MAC unique patented strut top design simply replaces existing mounts (no mods). Is the easiest/quickest to adjust (from engine bay – accurately underload, no need to jack/disassemble). Just 30 seconds – the time to undo the 3 lock nuts. Design provides biggest adjustment range of any kit. Can adjust without removal of strut brace. Also no height increase. Fits with OEM diameter springs or smaller coil overs. Manufactured not from soft billet alloy but highest 7075 grade.

AVAILABLE IN:
Stage 2 – Street/Race
For day to day commuter use (quick change settings on track days).
Centers are similar to OEM, but elastomer not rubber with separate radial thrust bearings for steering loads.

Stage 3 – Full Race
Designed for no flex – tauter/quicker response times, more effective shock control.
Centers are self align spherical bearings (PFTE lined). Extra H/Duty (massive 1 7/8” diameter) with separate radial thrust bearings for steering loads.

NOTE: Both Stage 2 and 3 “centers” are also replaceable.

FRONT LOWER ARM BUSHING KITS:
Designed to replace the ‘4’ main/highest wearing bushes. The 2 lower control arm inner become Camber adjustable with the 2 thrust arm to chassis Caster adjustable. As an alternative also available are crash/fluted bolts for these OEM bushings. But they are inaccurate (front only) “one position” bolts providing a minimal .3 of one degree (3mm / 1/8”).

While the K-MAC bushings provide 4 times the adjustment range and a whole new concept –
For the last 40 years replacement “adjustable bushings” have been labour intensive. If setting needed to be changed it required calculating the position then having to jack, dismantle and reposition bushes to the new setting.

The K-MAC patented invention changed all that. Now altering a setting can be done on car. Just loosen the nut and only a single wrench required to adjust to the new setting. And importantly accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack.

It means ongoing trips to dealers or alignment shops is a thing of the past – trying to accurately resolve (with one only position bolts) – steering pull, premature edge tire wear, or compensating for altering vehicle height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels or curb knock damage.

Also the K-MAC bushes are designed to eliminate the OEM air voided, oil filled bushes. Yet retain 2 axis movement. Result is improved brake, traction and steering response.

Many aftermarket brands also eliminate the air voids but with today’s multi link arms 2 axis movement can be restricted. With the result of actual increasing wheel tramp, loss of traction!

Situations in heavy V8 racing – top speed end of main straight and becoming airborne after hitting race curbs. Then slamming down broadside lap after lap. Where race car scrutineers rule that for safety, reliability only K-MAC bushings are allowed to be used.

Track days the front bushes can be adjusted for more Negative Camber (and track width) allowing to go deeper into the corners with improved traction and braking response.

FOR SERIOUS RACERS in the pursuit of front row of the grid lap times – combining the K-MAC upper strut mount adjusters means on track days can adjust for up to 3 degrees additional Negative Camber.

K-MAC REAR CAMBER BUSHINGS /(only Toe OEM) allow also single wrench adjustment to resolve premature edgetire wear or fine tune for maximum traction on track days. With extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility.

FINALLY FOR NOTICEABLY IMPROVED REAR END STABILITY, handling response and getting maximum traction/ power to the ground, we manufacture a total (12 link) bushing kit. Over-coming the alternative of unforgiving harshness, short life of delrin style bushings that soon pound out.


W204 Front Camber and Caster bushing Kit # 502616K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe kit) # 502226K $480

Front top strut adjuster kit (Camber and Caster)
Coil Spring Models Stage 2 (Street/Race) # 502616-2L $545
Stage 3 (Full Race) # 502616-3L $545

Rear 12 link bushing kit # 502626K $480

Current promotion for MB World members USA/Canada delivery - $30 one kit or $40 front and rear (normally $70 one kit, $80 front and rear). Can pay by Visa, MasterCard or PayPal.

See link for latest 2015 catalog Audi to Volvo – World’s largest range. http://K-mac.com/mercedes/

Wobble64

Btw - the 'adjust camber at the track as you wish in 30 seconds' statement: Not practically true, I am told, as the camber adjustment also impacts toe (the steering link attachment point also moves when you move the top).
So, the way to do it is increase camber either permanently and leave it or do it the day before race day, and revert afterwards. A couple friends of mine leave their higher camber and do not have an issue with excessive inside tire wear. Maybe because their tires never live long enough for it to matter.......