ARH Long Tube Headers/200 cell cats/x-pipe install
#101
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#102
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Mercedes CLS 63 2008 w219
Headers
As many of you have figured out already, I recently picked up a set of headers from the warehouse at American Racing Headers. Nick, Steve, & Andy were fantastic to work with! They were extremely responsive to all my questions about their headers and installation instructions. They even offered to install the headers onto my car for a very reasonable price. I was very tempted to go with them for my install, but the distance and timing ultimately led to my decision to perform my own install. This was what awaited me when I picked up my headers.
American Racing/MHP Headers awaiting my pickup
Long Tube Headers Unboxed
200 cell high flow cats
ARH/MHP Long Tube Headers
The installation went relatively smoothly, and we were able to complete the installation from start to finish in 4 hours time. Keep in mind that the install was done on a lift and with access to all the necessary tools.
OEM downpipes removed and steering rack dropped.
Finally installed the ARH/MHP Long Tube Headers! 80% done with my install at this point.
Test fitting and making final adjustments before clamping down the pipes.
ARH/MHP headers installed into place!
Close up shot of 200 cell cats and x pipe
Close up shot of x pipe and rear pipes clearing the factory brace
For those of you who are contemplating performing the installation yourself, there are a few items that I should point out. You're going to need quite a few extensions and sockets to be able to get the OEM nuts off the studs of the OEM log manifolds. It isn't a joke when they say it helps to have small or extreme dexterity.
We started on the passenger side first as that was the easiest to uninstall. You can unscrew the 4 upper nuts off the log manifolds from the top of the car, I would highly suggest you do that before raising the car up. Unfortunately, you can't do that on the drivers side header. I am not joking when I well you that we spent about 20 mins each of the upper nuts on the drivers side header. It may be shocking to hear this, but the long tube headers is a lot easier to install as it has more room and clearance to do so. We ended up breaking one stud off the oem studs, apparently this is very common, but we found out that ARH was very attentive to every detail of the installation. They had provided grade 8 bolts (which are stronger than the oem brass nuts/studs).
ARH even designed the rear pipes to incorporate a donut design, so that you don't have to reuse the oem donut gasket.
I had to call Andy up with questions that arose as I was performing my Saturday afternoon installation and he was extremely accommodating. I don't have any experience dealing with any of the other vendors that sell headers, but I would expect nothing less than the service I received.
For those of you in the NYC area who needs any work performed on their car, my friend is a certified AMG tech who can do all this work for a reasonable price.
American Racing/MHP Headers awaiting my pickup
Long Tube Headers Unboxed
200 cell high flow cats
ARH/MHP Long Tube Headers
The installation went relatively smoothly, and we were able to complete the installation from start to finish in 4 hours time. Keep in mind that the install was done on a lift and with access to all the necessary tools.
OEM downpipes removed and steering rack dropped.
Finally installed the ARH/MHP Long Tube Headers! 80% done with my install at this point.
Test fitting and making final adjustments before clamping down the pipes.
ARH/MHP headers installed into place!
Close up shot of 200 cell cats and x pipe
Close up shot of x pipe and rear pipes clearing the factory brace
For those of you who are contemplating performing the installation yourself, there are a few items that I should point out. You're going to need quite a few extensions and sockets to be able to get the OEM nuts off the studs of the OEM log manifolds. It isn't a joke when they say it helps to have small or extreme dexterity.
We started on the passenger side first as that was the easiest to uninstall. You can unscrew the 4 upper nuts off the log manifolds from the top of the car, I would highly suggest you do that before raising the car up. Unfortunately, you can't do that on the drivers side header. I am not joking when I well you that we spent about 20 mins each of the upper nuts on the drivers side header. It may be shocking to hear this, but the long tube headers is a lot easier to install as it has more room and clearance to do so. We ended up breaking one stud off the oem studs, apparently this is very common, but we found out that ARH was very attentive to every detail of the installation. They had provided grade 8 bolts (which are stronger than the oem brass nuts/studs).
ARH even designed the rear pipes to incorporate a donut design, so that you don't have to reuse the oem donut gasket.
I had to call Andy up with questions that arose as I was performing my Saturday afternoon installation and he was extremely accommodating. I don't have any experience dealing with any of the other vendors that sell headers, but I would expect nothing less than the service I received.
For those of you in the NYC area who needs any work performed on their car, my friend is a certified AMG tech who can do all this work for a reasonable price.
#103
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
If you broke them off in the head, you're screwed. Sorry, that blows. Drop the engine.
#104
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Mercedes CLS 63 2008 w219
Never screwed, that's what mechanics are for. They stick out about three quarters of an inch. I'll try welding nuts on the end and twisting them out. If not, I'm calling a tow truck.......
#105
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
You're good then. If they were buried in the head, I don't see any other way to get anything in there to extract. 3/4" is plenty to work with. Good luck.
#106
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
We used a "nut and bolt" to back out the broken stud. I was fortunate thay my friend has that tool on hand. He was anticipating broken studs.
#107
Super Member
Old thread but exactly what I'm struggling with.I found a decent deal (i think) on ARH headers/midpipe but I'm wondering if I should go 200cell cats or not.
I had an older c63 with full IPE exhaust that was REALLY loud when valves were opened, I'd be curious to know how loud stock exhaust is with ARH/catless x pipe. I'd assume the stock mufflers are quieter than the IPE mufflers, plus I'd likely put the stock resonators back in.
I'm currently running with resonators removed (straight pipe), secondary cats deleted by an H pipe with a 1.5" connecting piece. I still want to go louder but not quite to IPE full exhaust loud if I have no valves to quiet it down. I'd gather even with the 200cell cats it would be a good bit louder than I am now, but would it even make much more power?
I had an older c63 with full IPE exhaust that was REALLY loud when valves were opened, I'd be curious to know how loud stock exhaust is with ARH/catless x pipe. I'd assume the stock mufflers are quieter than the IPE mufflers, plus I'd likely put the stock resonators back in.
I'm currently running with resonators removed (straight pipe), secondary cats deleted by an H pipe with a 1.5" connecting piece. I still want to go louder but not quite to IPE full exhaust loud if I have no valves to quiet it down. I'd gather even with the 200cell cats it would be a good bit louder than I am now, but would it even make much more power?
#108
Member
Shane
Can't answer the power questions, as I never had the chance to have mine put on the drum, but I have had the ARH LT, 200 cell cats, and running the stock resonators.
Love this setup. Zero drone at any speeds, super close to stock sound levels when doing highway speeds up to 120 km/h (75 mph).
But when you cold start, or get it past say 4000 rpm, you can tell it's not stock any longer. Sounds like a pissed off God ripping the air apart. Love, love, love this setup.
Seat of pants only, car is definitely faster. Hope to get it to a town with a Dyno one time to spin it up and see. That or back to the same track I ran a few years back, and make a few passes, see if the times improve.
My bet is they will. Running the Eurocharged header tune with tis combo. Zero codes, or issues/hiccups of any kind. Been three years now. Proven combo in my eyes.
Can't answer the power questions, as I never had the chance to have mine put on the drum, but I have had the ARH LT, 200 cell cats, and running the stock resonators.
Love this setup. Zero drone at any speeds, super close to stock sound levels when doing highway speeds up to 120 km/h (75 mph).
But when you cold start, or get it past say 4000 rpm, you can tell it's not stock any longer. Sounds like a pissed off God ripping the air apart. Love, love, love this setup.
Seat of pants only, car is definitely faster. Hope to get it to a town with a Dyno one time to spin it up and see. That or back to the same track I ran a few years back, and make a few passes, see if the times improve.
My bet is they will. Running the Eurocharged header tune with tis combo. Zero codes, or issues/hiccups of any kind. Been three years now. Proven combo in my eyes.
#109
Super Member
Shane
Can't answer the power questions, as I never had the chance to have mine put on the drum, but I have had the ARH LT, 200 cell cats, and running the stock resonators.
Love this setup. Zero drone at any speeds, super close to stock sound levels when doing highway speeds up to 120 km/h (75 mph).
But when you cold start, or get it past say 4000 rpm, you can tell it's not stock any longer. Sounds like a pissed off God ripping the air apart. Love, love, love this setup.
Seat of pants only, car is definitely faster. Hope to get it to a town with a Dyno one time to spin it up and see. That or back to the same track I ran a few years back, and make a few passes, see if the times improve.
My bet is they will. Running the Eurocharged header tune with tis combo. Zero codes, or issues/hiccups of any kind. Been three years now. Proven combo in my eyes.
Can't answer the power questions, as I never had the chance to have mine put on the drum, but I have had the ARH LT, 200 cell cats, and running the stock resonators.
Love this setup. Zero drone at any speeds, super close to stock sound levels when doing highway speeds up to 120 km/h (75 mph).
But when you cold start, or get it past say 4000 rpm, you can tell it's not stock any longer. Sounds like a pissed off God ripping the air apart. Love, love, love this setup.
Seat of pants only, car is definitely faster. Hope to get it to a town with a Dyno one time to spin it up and see. That or back to the same track I ran a few years back, and make a few passes, see if the times improve.
My bet is they will. Running the Eurocharged header tune with tis combo. Zero codes, or issues/hiccups of any kind. Been three years now. Proven combo in my eyes.
#110
Member
The tune is V6. Seems to be one of the "good" ones lol. Had (thinking back hard) "Mike's" X-pipe in previously, left the resonators etc in place tho.
Then went to the lt's. Sounds fine even in S etc. It's just when you get past say half throttle position and 4,000 rpm that she starts to come alive :-)
Then went to the lt's. Sounds fine even in S etc. It's just when you get past say half throttle position and 4,000 rpm that she starts to come alive :-)
#111
Super Member
The tune is V6. Seems to be one of the "good" ones lol. Had (thinking back hard) "Mike's" X-pipe in previously, left the resonators etc in place tho.
Then went to the lt's. Sounds fine even in S etc. It's just when you get past say half throttle position and 4,000 rpm that she starts to come alive :-)
Then went to the lt's. Sounds fine even in S etc. It's just when you get past say half throttle position and 4,000 rpm that she starts to come alive :-)
#112
Member
Oh it's louder like that, just not excessive. Full disclosure though, I have tinnitus in one ear, so basically deaf on that side. So, in all truthfulness, could be a fair chunk louder than stock lol. Just seems like a livable, day to day volume for me.
#113
I have ARH catless, stock resonators, and stock mufflers. Under 2k RPM the car is completely stock. Anything over 2k is loud compared to just a secondary cat delete I had before the headers. WOT is extremely loud. Almost sounds like an LS3 C6 vette tbh.
#114
Super Member
The only time I find my car being loud enough for my taste is at WOT, and again i'm just secondary cat delete with h pipe and reso delete. Sounds like I'd like catless ARH setup.
#115
Member
Also does putting a X pipe instead of stock resonator would give bigger power gains?
LTH+Catless+Stock resonator+stock muffler is my prospective setup. Is there any setup that can give bigger power gains than this.
Do any one on this forum know a good shop to get my LTH installed. I am live in Michigan Ann Arbor area and I can travel 100+ miles too if there is some good shop in that vicinity.
Thanks.
#116
Super Member
I ordered the american racing headers and the catless x pipe but I don't have stock resonators anymore. Has anyone done this (or any LT) setup without resonators? Curious how it might sound as I might just install it this way rather than trying to find some resonators to weld back in. Most of the videos on youtube I can find with LT's and mid section have the stock resos.
#117
Member
I ordered the american racing headers and the catless x pipe but I don't have stock resonators anymore. Has anyone done this (or any LT) setup without resonators? Curious how it might sound as I might just install it this way rather than trying to find some resonators to weld back in. Most of the videos on youtube I can find with LT's and mid section have the stock resos.
I hope it helps.
#118
Super Member
Why do you want to put a resonator. Crossing exhaust stream twice that’s too in a short length difference can cause turbulence in the flow which would develop eddy’s. Such eddy’s can not only affect your scavanging action but would also increase unnecessary back pressure. Further more it can affect the exhaust tuning wave timing.
I hope it helps.
Last edited by ShaneN.; 06-03-2018 at 11:07 PM.
#119
Member
I don’t know much in acoustic terms but as w.r.t. gas flow mixing exhaust stream twice would not be a very good idea.
Anyways best of luck and please let me know how it sounds.
Regards
Jay
Anyways best of luck and please let me know how it sounds.
Regards
Jay
#120
Super Member
The headers and x pipe all came in the one box right? Would it fit in our cars with the seats down? It's hard to tell scale by that pic. Mine are arriving state side any day now and I have to go pick them up
#121
the box fit across the back seat for me. It wouldn’t fit in the trunk even with the seats down
#122
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
THe headers arrived in one box, but you can take the individually wrapped pieces and place it in your car for transport. I actually brought the headers home by placing the pieces in the trunk.
#123
Super Member
With both seats down i'm sure there is more space front to back then on the back seat? Regardless it sounds like it'll fit one way or another. I just didn't want to make the trip to Washington and not have a way to get them home. lol.
#124
yeah the problem is the box is too thick to make it between the trunk and the seats I tried lol
#125
Super Member
Also, I wanted to ask, did they include new gaskets or will I need those? anything else? It sounded like it came with new hardware,right?