Brand new c63 1400miles blown engine
#1
Brand new c63 1400miles blown engine
Hi guys I'm new so firstly I hope this in the right place.
I bought my c63 amg 2 months ago and have done 1400 miles, took the car out the night before running fine didn't have any issues, put in garage, next day I turned engine on let engine run for a few minutes while I was texting then I decided to pull out garage and the car started shuddering like mad smoke out the back and the yellow engine light came on.
Mercedes are coming to collect it this week as Xmas period.
My question is.. Do I accept the engine rebuild etc or do I have any leg to stand on and put a complaint in and push for new?
I'm not sure when the car comes back it will be same as it was after this and so early on in its life has really worried me.
Please help me in some way if you have heard of this and what to suggest.
Thank you guys
I bought my c63 amg 2 months ago and have done 1400 miles, took the car out the night before running fine didn't have any issues, put in garage, next day I turned engine on let engine run for a few minutes while I was texting then I decided to pull out garage and the car started shuddering like mad smoke out the back and the yellow engine light came on.
Mercedes are coming to collect it this week as Xmas period.
My question is.. Do I accept the engine rebuild etc or do I have any leg to stand on and put a complaint in and push for new?
I'm not sure when the car comes back it will be same as it was after this and so early on in its life has really worried me.
Please help me in some way if you have heard of this and what to suggest.
Thank you guys
#2
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Hi guys I'm new so firstly I hope this in the right place.
I bought my c63 amg 2 months ago and have done 1400 miles, took the car out the night before running fine didn't have any issues, put in garage, next day I turned engine on let engine run for a few minutes while I was texting then I decided to pull out garage and the car started shuddering like mad smoke out the back and the yellow engine light came on.
Mercedes are coming to collect it this week as Xmas period.
My question is.. Do I accept the engine rebuild etc or do I have any leg to stand on and put a complaint in and push for new?
I'm not sure when the car comes back it will be same as it was after this and so early on in its life has really worried me.
Please help me in some way if you have heard of this and what to suggest.
Thank you guys
I bought my c63 amg 2 months ago and have done 1400 miles, took the car out the night before running fine didn't have any issues, put in garage, next day I turned engine on let engine run for a few minutes while I was texting then I decided to pull out garage and the car started shuddering like mad smoke out the back and the yellow engine light came on.
Mercedes are coming to collect it this week as Xmas period.
My question is.. Do I accept the engine rebuild etc or do I have any leg to stand on and put a complaint in and push for new?
I'm not sure when the car comes back it will be same as it was after this and so early on in its life has really worried me.
Please help me in some way if you have heard of this and what to suggest.
Thank you guys
I personally would not want a rebuild only 1400 miles into the ownership of a brand new car
Also... Any customization, mods, tunes on the car?
Sorry to hear I can only imagine how u feel, good luck
#3
just wait for the diagnosis before assuming the worst, it could be something simple or it could be big. wait for them to take it and diagnose.
IF and its a big IF they need to rebuild or replace the engine i'd do as mentioned above and push for a buyback. Part of owning an AMG is one man one engine
the first few thousand miles can be tough on an engine and they need to be treated properly, if that was done and no mods you should be taken care of
IF and its a big IF they need to rebuild or replace the engine i'd do as mentioned above and push for a buyback. Part of owning an AMG is one man one engine
the first few thousand miles can be tough on an engine and they need to be treated properly, if that was done and no mods you should be taken care of
#4
just wait for the diagnosis before assuming the worst, it could be something simple or it could be big. wait for them to take it and diagnose.
IF and its a big IF they need to rebuild or replace the engine i'd do as mentioned above and push for a buyback. Part of owning an AMG is one man one engine
the first few thousand miles can be tough on an engine and they need to be treated properly, if that was done and no mods you should be taken care of
IF and its a big IF they need to rebuild or replace the engine i'd do as mentioned above and push for a buyback. Part of owning an AMG is one man one engine
the first few thousand miles can be tough on an engine and they need to be treated properly, if that was done and no mods you should be taken care of
i dont get guys who toot the whole "oh drive it like a baby for 2000 KM" ...yeah ok because you know all those massivly oversized parts AMG put in are more frigile then glass....if you buy an AMG and it breaks within the first 4,000 KM then someone at AMG needs to be fired stat
the whole breakin period was made by lawyers so AMG / MB doesn't get their *** sued off incase they have a fault engine from the factory
Last edited by avery.whss; 12-25-2014 at 11:53 AM.
#5
it's a 6.3L handmade V8 with almost 500HP...it doesn't "need" to be taken care of, put fluids in it, keep them topped up..and abuse the living hell out of it, these are machines, with zero emotions, they aren't new born children
i dont get guys who toot the whole "oh drive it like a baby for 2000 KM" ...yeah ok because you know all those massivly oversized parts AMG put in are more frigile then glass....if you buy an AMG and it breaks within the first 4,000 KM then someone at AMG needs to be fired stat
i dont get guys who toot the whole "oh drive it like a baby for 2000 KM" ...yeah ok because you know all those massivly oversized parts AMG put in are more frigile then glass....if you buy an AMG and it breaks within the first 4,000 KM then someone at AMG needs to be fired stat
every single new engine has a breakin period, you shouldnt go and do burnouts and race a brand new engine thats just flat out common sense.
and there IS a reccomended factory breakin period, if you choose to ignore that then it's on you. don't act like an AHOLE because some people choose to allow an engine to break.
#6
every single new engine has a breakin period, you shouldnt go and do burnouts and race a brand new engine thats just flat out common sense.
and there IS a reccomended factory breakin period, if you choose to ignore that then it's on you. don't act like an AHOLE because some people choose to allow an engine to break.
and there IS a reccomended factory breakin period, if you choose to ignore that then it's on you. don't act like an AHOLE because some people choose to allow an engine to break.
What a fail, a big fail, Here lets buy almost a 500HP car but can't drive it for what it is for a few months..what a waste of time, if they can't make a engine in 2014 take abuse the second an owner buys it, then they need to go back to the drawing board, i mean be realistic...how are you going to see what parts AMG f'ed up on from the factory if you can't drive it hard at first? Driving it hard shows the weak points, it exposes them, breaks it, and then you can make it strong, how can you tell whats a weak point if you have to treat it more precious then a new born child? Doesn't make sense
wouldn't you want the weak parts to break faster so you can get it replaced? I'd think so...I mean why drive the car soft then the second your out of warranty it goes boom, beat it, break it while its under warranty then you'll be set
Last edited by avery.whss; 12-25-2014 at 11:59 AM.
#7
its just stupid, you buy a $100,000 MERCEDES and can't do a burnout while you leave the lot?
What a fail, a big fail, Here lets buy almost a 500HP car but can't drive it for what it is for a few months..what a waste of time, if they can't make a engine in 2014 take abuse the second an owner buys it, then they need to go back to the drawing board
What a fail, a big fail, Here lets buy almost a 500HP car but can't drive it for what it is for a few months..what a waste of time, if they can't make a engine in 2014 take abuse the second an owner buys it, then they need to go back to the drawing board
its not just MB it's any manufacturer. Read the owners manual and they recommend certain things for the first 1000 miles or so.
You may or may not be fine to drive like an idiot right away, but if it blows and they deny warranty then TS
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#8
im not saying you gotta go race and do burnouts, but being able to "get into it" once in awhile is nice, I just never understood the entire break in period, i use to work in a auto shop for years and i mean...break in period is the LEAST of a car companies worries, the amount of humans who never change their oil etc is more of a problem then a simple break in period, hell even peoples tires...i'd be more concerned about the 90% of society driving on bald tires crashing into someone else over a break in period
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
There is a Break-in Period listed in the owners manual. Just sayin'
Originally Posted by 2010 C-Class Owners Manual
Break-in period .................................. 222
The first 1000 miles (1500 km)
The more cautiously you treat your vehicle during the break-in period, the more satisfied you will be with its performance later on. RDrive your vehicle during the first
1 000 miles (1 500 km) at varying but moderate vehicle and engine speeds.
RDuring this period, avoid heavy loads (full throttle driving) and excessive engine speeds (no more than 2/3 of maximum rpm in each gear).
RVehicles with automatic transmission:
- Select C as the preferred shift program (Y page 111) for the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km).
- Do not attempt to slow the vehicle down by shifting to a lower gear using the gear selector lever.
- Select gear ranges 3, 2 or 1
(Y page 111) only when driving at moderate speeds (for hill driving).
- Avoid accelerating by kickdown. RVehicles with manual transmission:
Shift gears in a timely manner.
After 1 000 miles (1 500 km) you may gradually increase vehicle and engine speeds to the permissible maximum.
! Additional instructions for AMG vehicles:
RDuring the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km), do not exceed a speed of 85 mph
(140 km/h).
RDuring this period, avoid engine speeds above 4 500 rpm in each gear.
RShift gears in a timely manner.
All of the above instructions, as may apply to your vehicle type, also apply when driving the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km) after the engine or the rear differential has been replaced.
i Always obey applicable speed limits.
The first 1000 miles (1500 km)
The more cautiously you treat your vehicle during the break-in period, the more satisfied you will be with its performance later on. RDrive your vehicle during the first
1 000 miles (1 500 km) at varying but moderate vehicle and engine speeds.
RDuring this period, avoid heavy loads (full throttle driving) and excessive engine speeds (no more than 2/3 of maximum rpm in each gear).
RVehicles with automatic transmission:
- Select C as the preferred shift program (Y page 111) for the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km).
- Do not attempt to slow the vehicle down by shifting to a lower gear using the gear selector lever.
- Select gear ranges 3, 2 or 1
(Y page 111) only when driving at moderate speeds (for hill driving).
- Avoid accelerating by kickdown. RVehicles with manual transmission:
Shift gears in a timely manner.
After 1 000 miles (1 500 km) you may gradually increase vehicle and engine speeds to the permissible maximum.
! Additional instructions for AMG vehicles:
RDuring the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km), do not exceed a speed of 85 mph
(140 km/h).
RDuring this period, avoid engine speeds above 4 500 rpm in each gear.
RShift gears in a timely manner.
All of the above instructions, as may apply to your vehicle type, also apply when driving the first 1 000 miles (1 500 km) after the engine or the rear differential has been replaced.
i Always obey applicable speed limits.
#10
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2011 C63 AMG P31
it's a 6.3L handmade V8 with almost 500HP...it doesn't "need" to be taken care of, put fluids in it, keep them topped up..and abuse the living hell out of it, these are machines, with zero emotions, they aren't new born children, and if its 2014 and engines have a high chance of breaking within the first few thousand KM, well then someone needs to burn the entire auto industry down, because 100 years and litterly probably trillions in R&D and they can't make a engine work under abuse properly from the factory? What a miserable fail by every car maker in the industry
i dont get guys who toot the whole "oh drive it like a baby for 2000 KM" ...yeah ok because you know all those massivly oversized parts AMG put in are more frigile then glass....if you buy an AMG and it breaks within the first 4,000 KM then someone at AMG needs to be fired stat
the whole breakin period was made by lawyers so AMG / MB doesn't get their *** sued off incase they have a fault engine from the factory
i dont get guys who toot the whole "oh drive it like a baby for 2000 KM" ...yeah ok because you know all those massivly oversized parts AMG put in are more frigile then glass....if you buy an AMG and it breaks within the first 4,000 KM then someone at AMG needs to be fired stat
the whole breakin period was made by lawyers so AMG / MB doesn't get their *** sued off incase they have a fault engine from the factory
As someone who has built performance engines, and actively works to maintain them... You have literally no idea what you're talking about.
The whole wear in period serves several purposes, previously it was meant to wear in the rings on the course hone pattern on cylinder walls, but now days honning has advanced far enough that this isn't a huge factor. Another purpose of this period is because parts must "wear together". In your first oil change, there will be massive metal content because of this, in fact whenever I've built motors we used special break in oil that was meant to handle the very harsh running conditions of a new motor. Often a fairly large amount of oil is also burnt during this period. In this period parts are also effectively "tested" for build quality, if there are flaws they will show.
Think of it this way, a new engine is effectively a solid piece. There is barely any room for parts to move because of the extreme tolerances everything is built to. In those 1500km you are letting the motor perfectly wear everything together. It wears off any small burrs (I'm talking microscopic here), hence why you will end up with metal in your oil.
When you run a new engine hard, you're just asking for a failure. Be it imidiate or 100,000km down the line. MB would hope it fails at 100k, so they don't have to fix your stupidity.
Last edited by ToXicXxX; 12-25-2014 at 01:24 PM.
#11
It's a 6.2L. If you can't get the basic facts right... That's pretty sad.
As someone who has built performance engines, and actively works to maintain them... You have literally no idea what you're talking about.
The whole wear in period serves several purposes, previously it was meant to wear in the rings on the course hone pattern on cylinder walls, but now days honning has advanced far enough that this isn't a huge factor. Another purpose of this period is because parts must "wear together". In your first oil change, there will be massive metal content because of this, in fact whenever I've built motors we used special break in oil that was meant to handle the very harsh running conditions of a new motor. Often a fairly large amount of oil is also burnt during this period. In this period parts are also effectively "tested" for build quality, if there are flaws they will show.
Think of it this way, a new engine is effectively a solid piece. There is barely any room for parts to move because of the extreme tolerances everything is built to. In those 1500km you are letting the motor perfectly wear everything together. It wears off any small burrs (I'm talking microscopic here), hence why you will end up with metal in your oil.
When you run a new engine hard, you're just asking for a failure. Be it imidiate or 100,000km down the line. MB would hope it fails at 100k, so they don't have to fix your stupidity.
As someone who has built performance engines, and actively works to maintain them... You have literally no idea what you're talking about.
The whole wear in period serves several purposes, previously it was meant to wear in the rings on the course hone pattern on cylinder walls, but now days honning has advanced far enough that this isn't a huge factor. Another purpose of this period is because parts must "wear together". In your first oil change, there will be massive metal content because of this, in fact whenever I've built motors we used special break in oil that was meant to handle the very harsh running conditions of a new motor. Often a fairly large amount of oil is also burnt during this period. In this period parts are also effectively "tested" for build quality, if there are flaws they will show.
Think of it this way, a new engine is effectively a solid piece. There is barely any room for parts to move because of the extreme tolerances everything is built to. In those 1500km you are letting the motor perfectly wear everything together. It wears off any small burrs (I'm talking microscopic here), hence why you will end up with metal in your oil.
When you run a new engine hard, you're just asking for a failure. Be it imidiate or 100,000km down the line. MB would hope it fails at 100k, so they don't have to fix your stupidity.
#12
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2011 C63 AMG P31
exactly my point...it's like they want you to drive it nice while under warranty and put rules in...then when its out of warranty..go blow it up, just seems really sad that car companies are that greedy they've already made billions upon billions of dollars every year, i wasnt saying you go street race it, but...getting into it once in awhile is nice, i get how things are "tight" but just figured things are made from metal and driving slow wouldn't put much stress on it so it wouldn't be prone to failure as much but if it does ware things out..then it totally makes sense, too me i just figure, hey its under warranty..why not blow it up while its covered lol.. then again i never did buy a warranty with my c63
They want it to break after warranty if you are the source of the damage. Revving a car up in idle, beating on it 24/7, prolonged oil service, revving it up while cold, lack of general maintainence and beating on it while it's new are all going to shave years off its life.
Let's put it this way, every time you rev your car up past 4500 or so wile it's freezing cold it's like if you were to smoke down a pack of cigarettes. Yeah, it probably won't do anything, but you just took the risk of developing a problem, one that won't present itself immediately.
#13
Hi guys
First 500 miles driven at 2-3rpm
1000 opened up the engine here and there but nothing excessive as a lot what motorway miles.
Thanks for replies I shall wait till they diagnose it and come back and update and ask what you guys suggest.
I bought car from Mercedes Benz uk and car is on finance so is a buy back option open to me if it is serious.
Like I said this car has not had any burn outs or anything excessive, yes some burst of opening her up to 7rpm but nothing that was excessive and all time.1400 miles done now and was absolutely fine when I put in garage night before was running like a dream, turned engine over like I said then pulled out and that's when it was shuddering violently but still going forward across drive and then engine light came on and I reversed and put back in garage and called mb
Also when I turned engine on I sat in car letting it tick over like I do for3-4 minutes every time no reving
First 500 miles driven at 2-3rpm
1000 opened up the engine here and there but nothing excessive as a lot what motorway miles.
Thanks for replies I shall wait till they diagnose it and come back and update and ask what you guys suggest.
I bought car from Mercedes Benz uk and car is on finance so is a buy back option open to me if it is serious.
Like I said this car has not had any burn outs or anything excessive, yes some burst of opening her up to 7rpm but nothing that was excessive and all time.1400 miles done now and was absolutely fine when I put in garage night before was running like a dream, turned engine over like I said then pulled out and that's when it was shuddering violently but still going forward across drive and then engine light came on and I reversed and put back in garage and called mb
Also when I turned engine on I sat in car letting it tick over like I do for3-4 minutes every time no reving
#14
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Hi guys
First 500 miles driven at 2-3rpm
1000 opened up the engine here and there but nothing excessive as a lot what motorway miles.
Thanks for replies I shall wait till they diagnose it and come back and update and ask what you guys suggest.
I bought car from Mercedes Benz uk and car is on finance so is a buy back option open to me if it is serious.
Like I said this car has not had any burn outs or anything excessive, yes some burst of opening her up to 7rpm but nothing that was excessive and all time.1400 miles done now and was absolutely fine when I put in garage night before was running like a dream, turned engine over like I said then pulled out and that's when it was shuddering violently but still going forward across drive and then engine light came on and I reversed and put back in garage and called mb
Also when I turned engine on I sat in car letting it tick over like I do for3-4 minutes every time no reving
First 500 miles driven at 2-3rpm
1000 opened up the engine here and there but nothing excessive as a lot what motorway miles.
Thanks for replies I shall wait till they diagnose it and come back and update and ask what you guys suggest.
I bought car from Mercedes Benz uk and car is on finance so is a buy back option open to me if it is serious.
Like I said this car has not had any burn outs or anything excessive, yes some burst of opening her up to 7rpm but nothing that was excessive and all time.1400 miles done now and was absolutely fine when I put in garage night before was running like a dream, turned engine over like I said then pulled out and that's when it was shuddering violently but still going forward across drive and then engine light came on and I reversed and put back in garage and called mb
Also when I turned engine on I sat in car letting it tick over like I do for3-4 minutes every time no reving
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
#15
Member
Yyyyuuup. They have a break in procedure for a reason.
Take two identical engines. Pound the snot out of one from get-go, and break the other in.
Short term performance be higher on the pounded one. Run em for another 10-15,000 km and dyno again. The one that was properly broken in will have higher performance.
Both will run "fine", "great" etc. Just one will make more power. That's why there's a few different cars that have been tested and posted results here have slightly better #'s than others...
Take two identical engines. Pound the snot out of one from get-go, and break the other in.
Short term performance be higher on the pounded one. Run em for another 10-15,000 km and dyno again. The one that was properly broken in will have higher performance.
Both will run "fine", "great" etc. Just one will make more power. That's why there's a few different cars that have been tested and posted results here have slightly better #'s than others...
#16
Where did you get "blown engine" from?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
faulty o2 was my first guess as well, but you never know. It's new enough there should be no issue getting anything repaired.
i'd put money on it being something simple
#17
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Crap happens
#18
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2011 C63 AMG P31
Where did you get "blown engine" from?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
A friend's C63 was idling rough, we replaced MAF (I had spare), plugs, swapped coils, swapped injectors. Finally after no progress we had a compression and leak down test done. Two cylinders had 45% leak down. From this we concluded a failed valve train, likely a valve had stuck open and been bent (not a "blown engine" in the conventional sense, but this requires a rebuilt and would be considered a failed motor). As far as knowing for sure, that motor will be out in the new year and we will be breaking it down to check out.
Sorry if that was irrelevant, just a quick blurb to show things aren't always what they seem with engines. Some techs rely so heavily on CANBUS data, they forget to do the most elementary of tests (leakdown and compression are analog, they require time and effort, unlike scanning).
It may well be an O2 sensor, but they should produce a fault code if it's this severe. We had a 335i with custom exhaust that came in having problems, it all came down to whomever did the exhaust had stuck in an aftermarket O2 sensor that the car wouldn't communicate with properly.
Last edited by ToXicXxX; 12-25-2014 at 02:11 PM.
#19
Yyyyuuup. They have a break in procedure for a reason.
Take two identical engines. Pound the snot out of one from get-go, and break the other in.
Short term performance be higher on the pounded one. Run em for another 10-15,000 km and dyno again. The one that was properly broken in will have higher performance.
Both will run "fine", "great" etc. Just one will make more power. That's why there's a few different cars that have been tested and posted results here have slightly better #'s than others...
Take two identical engines. Pound the snot out of one from get-go, and break the other in.
Short term performance be higher on the pounded one. Run em for another 10-15,000 km and dyno again. The one that was properly broken in will have higher performance.
Both will run "fine", "great" etc. Just one will make more power. That's why there's a few different cars that have been tested and posted results here have slightly better #'s than others...
im guessing this happens because wear is sped up in the early stages which makes it wear more when its in later stages?
Last edited by avery.whss; 12-25-2014 at 02:12 PM.
#20
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I don't know if I'd go so far as to call myself that haha.
A friend's C63 was idling rough, we replaced MAF (I had spare), plugs, swapped coils, swapped injectors. Finally after no progress we had a compression and leak down test done. Two cylinders had 45% leak down. From this we concluded a failed valve train, likely a valve had stuck open and been bent (not a "blown engine" in the conventional sense, but this requires a rebuilt and would be considered a failed motor). As far as knowing for sure, that motor will be out in the new year and we will be breaking it down to check out.
Sorry if that was irrelevant, just a quick blurb to show things aren't always what they seem with engines. Some techs rely so heavily on CANBUS data, they forget to do the most elementary of tests (leakdown and compression are analog, they require time and effort, unlike scanning).
It may well be an O2 sensor, but they should produce a fault code if it's this severe. We had a 335i with custom exhaust that came in having problems, it all came down to whomever did the exhaust had stuck in an aftermarket O2 sensor that the car wouldn't communicate with properly.
A friend's C63 was idling rough, we replaced MAF (I had spare), plugs, swapped coils, swapped injectors. Finally after no progress we had a compression and leak down test done. Two cylinders had 45% leak down. From this we concluded a failed valve train, likely a valve had stuck open and been bent (not a "blown engine" in the conventional sense, but this requires a rebuilt and would be considered a failed motor). As far as knowing for sure, that motor will be out in the new year and we will be breaking it down to check out.
Sorry if that was irrelevant, just a quick blurb to show things aren't always what they seem with engines. Some techs rely so heavily on CANBUS data, they forget to do the most elementary of tests (leakdown and compression are analog, they require time and effort, unlike scanning).
It may well be an O2 sensor, but they should produce a fault code if it's this severe. We had a 335i with custom exhaust that came in having problems, it all came down to whomever did the exhaust had stuck in an aftermarket O2 sensor that the car wouldn't communicate with properly.
#22
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If it's just some simple in emissions then mb uk won't play ball with buyback, they'll maybe give him a month payment as grievance money but it'll take him needing a new engine or rebuild for him to have that kind of leverage
If it's serious, I would get mb uk involved ASAP
If it's serious, I would get mb uk involved ASAP
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
What model year?
You bought it new I assume?
Were the basic checks performed before jumping into conclusions?
OP is talking about smoke coming out of the exhaust. White smoke?
Could be coolant burning?
Were the codes pulled?
If the car is new MB should be able to diagnose and come to a conclusion. Unless OP didn't follow the break-in period that repair should be covered by the warranty.
GL
You bought it new I assume?
Were the basic checks performed before jumping into conclusions?
OP is talking about smoke coming out of the exhaust. White smoke?
Could be coolant burning?
Were the codes pulled?
If the car is new MB should be able to diagnose and come to a conclusion. Unless OP didn't follow the break-in period that repair should be covered by the warranty.
GL
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Where did you get "blown engine" from?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?
Maybe it's just an o2 sensor gone bad or something simple in emissions... Cel and rough engine on startup don't scream blown engine to me.... Doing back to back dyno runs and them hearing the engine explode... That screams blown engine to me
Toxicxxx?? You're the engine wiz here am I wrong?