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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Mazspeed
Hey Jim. I got your message. Would this pull my rear wheels in a little, enough to use my current tires. The wheels I bought have the wrong offsets, but just wrong enough where they rub with my 265s. They trimed and rolled the fenders but it's just barley rubbing. What do you think?
Thanks again for the help and feedback. I very much appreciate it.
My understanding without having it in my hands yet, is that it replaces the upper control arm. So it will push/pull from the top of the wheel to get to the desired camber. In combination with the KMAC lower adjustable bushing, which pulls/pushes the bottom of the wheel in/out, we should be able to get the desired camber while pulling the wheel in and tucking it up under the fenders. I’m trying to get my 305’s to fit without doing more fender work (I only need about a cm) and I think these will do the trick.
Thats my rudimentary understanding anyway, maybe Shardul can confirm.
Thanks guys. Looking into this option and to see how much space I have on the inter portion of the wheel housing. They should have something for me by Monday.
This isn't some new vaporware technology. It is a tried and true solution to an old problem, just made to fit these chassis.
No one on here disputes that but from the way I understood the question he was asking if there are real numbers to back up any claims. eg: dyno plots or slips to show gains that may or not be there.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Just for the record, the arms are AWESOME. My alignment guy thinks they’re the best piece of kit he’s ever seen. Great adjustability and keep the *** end planted in turns. They are noisy as hell though, but whatever, racecar.
@blkrkt how did you resolve the active headlight issue or do you not have that ? debating these as I'm looking to fit 305's or wider in the rear now that I've got the HMS flares....
This isn't some new vaporware technology. It is a tried and true solution to an old problem, just made to fit these chassis.
This kind of hardware (not necessarily this brand, but these kinds of adjustable arms) just address simple physics and geometry. The bigger the rubber patch on the ground, the better your traction - that's physics. When you drop a car on its existing control arms the tires sit on the inner edges - that's geometry. Tires on their edges don't grip as well - physics again. And they wear faster.
Race cars aren't just lowered on their existing mount points like so many "tuned" street cars. They have exactly this kind of hardware in the rear, plus camber and castor plates in the front to get alignment back where it should be.
Negative camber at a road course (track) makes sense because the cornering forces lean the loaded tires back to straight with full contact. Without negative camber at the track you get poor traction and excessive outer edge wear because the outside tire is pushed over toward the sidewall. Most race cars run 3.5 to 5 degrees negative
Negative camber doesn't make sense on the street. I wouldn't go more than half degree rear or full degree on the front for day to day use.
****ed up toe doesn't make sense anywhere, not even on a camel, yet that's what a lot of lowered street cars have.
You don't need this if your car is stock height, but if you have lowered it you need this or something like it. What is really "bling" is lowering a highly engineered German car to a point that the existing suspension components leave the wheels canted at bizarre angels that actually hurt performance.
+1 to THIS 100%!
Couldn't have said it better myself.
But now I'm left wondering why they would be so noisy?
Last edited by SouthAmericaTouring; Sep 28, 2018 at 04:00 PM.
Reason: Additional question.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by 95viper
Why are they noisy?
Its a metal spherical bearing in a metal sleeve. All metal-on-metal contact. They replace the stock rubber bushings with something that flexes less yet still has 360-degree movement. Some are PTFE lined (Aurora and QA1 make great ones) and they tend to make less noise and last longer. Here are two types/sizes - the first are the ones you tend to see screwed on rod ends and camber arms and they’re maybe 2” in diameter, the second pic is what tends to get pressed in on much more heavy duty components like control arms and they’re more than 2x larger. I had these made for my front thrust arms.
I’ve replaced almost all of my suspension bushings with sphericals and I hear everything. Every single bump or turn makes them click, creak, bang and squeak. It took awhile to get used to it, and not sure if I would do again. Definitely not on an East Coast street-driven car. The ride is brutal.
Originally Posted by Texas E63
@blkrkt how did you resolve the active headlight issue or do you not have that ? debating these as I'm looking to fit 305's or wider in the rear now that I've got the HMS flares....
E
Didn't have it. But I’ve seen people zip-tie the sensors to the new arms before.
Its a metal spherical bearing in a metal sleeve. All metal-on-metal contact. They replace the stock rubber bushings with something that flexes less yet still has 360-degree movement. Some are PTFE lined (Aurora and QA1 make great ones) and they tend to make less noise and last longer. Here are two types/sizes - the first are the ones you tend to see screwed on rod ends and camber arms and they’re maybe 2” in diameter, the second pic is what tends to get pressed in on much more heavy duty components like control arms and they’re more than 2x larger. I had these made for my front thrust arms.
I’ve replaced almost all of my suspension bushings with sphericals and I hear everything. Every single bump or turn makes them click, creak, bang and squeak. It took awhile to get used to it, and not sure if I would do again. Definitely not on an East Coast street-driven car. The ride is brutal.
Well craaaap, back to the drawing board then I guess.
I'm simply trying to figure out the best way (doesn't even have to be the most cost-effective way) but the best way to be able to enjoy the low stance of my vehicle but without sacrificing the continual cost of my Michelin PSS due to that damn neg camber.
Oh but wait, I thought I read somewhere that these UPD's have nylon between the metals?
Last edited by SouthAmericaTouring; Sep 29, 2018 at 06:54 AM.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
These are going to be the best option out there as far as quality and adjustability in my opinion. You could also try the KMAC rear camber bushings - less adjustability but as noise-free as OEM.
PTFE or nylon injected races like this are better and quieter than not, but also materially noisier than stock rubber bushings.
These are going to be the best option out there as far as quality and adjustability in my opinion. You could also try the KMAC rear camber bushings - less adjustability but as noise-free as OEM.
PTFE or nylon injected races like this are better and quieter than not, but also materially noisier than stock rubber bushings.
None of these applications are meant for regular street driven vehicles for a variety of reasons. Noise, vibration, harshness is one. Regular inspection and maintenance needs is another.
They're appropriate for track vehicles that see rigorous inspection and maintenance schedules and where no one gives a crap about the noise because, well, it's just one more racket in an already loud vehicle.
That said, there's nothing wrong with using them on the street as long as you're aware of the compromises and needs of running this type of hardware. Most people aren't willing to make those compromises, no matter how hard parking hardcore they are
I have a never used set in classifieds for sale if anyone is looking...... with my stock height I turned out not to need them based on what ECATX advised, i also thought it might help fit the wider tires but that also wasn't needed.
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