UPD Adjustable Rear Suspension Arms - Toe and Camber
More traction, even tire wear, improved handling, better braking and firm muscular road feel are some of the features attained with the new UPD rear suspension kit. Mildly lowered cars and cars with larger tires can quickly adjust suspension back to factory or custom alignments. Stock suspension and on lowered cars, tires tend to wear out the inside patch of your $300.00+ dollar tires every 4000 miles. With the UPD suspension kit, abnormal tire wear can be tuned out with quick on the car adjustments.
With more tire contact on the ground creating better traction, your car will be faster from a dig or a roll. We have seen from a 30-100 mph roll, up to .4 tenths quicker time by improving traction , reducing rolling resistance with better toe angles and less tire wobble.
The factory camber and toe arms are made with soft rubber bushings that allow a plush mushy luxury ride and compounded by age and use, you get toe and camber wobble.
Features:
*Full heavy duty, adjustable race camber and toe arm kit
* 6061 aircraft grade, 1.25" hexagon aluminum
* Massive 3/4" adjustable chrome molly rod ends
* Self lubricating, self sealing , injected nylon races
* Easy to adjust toe and camber settings while on the car
* Over 26000 lbs radial static load rated rod ends
* One year warranty
Price $ 799
Last edited by shardul; Apr 20, 2015 at 10:04 AM.
Last edited by Hans Grenade; Apr 20, 2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: New info




). Could you give a little more info on the construction, and if the chassis-end is a fixed link or spherical. Seems some members had problems with the latter. And your "4 tenths" quicker time 30-100 is backed up with a Vbox or similar? Thanks.




The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.
The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.




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). Could you give a little more info on the construction, and if the chassis-end is a fixed link or spherical. Seems some members had problems with the latter. And your "4 tenths" quicker time 30-100 is backed up with a Vbox or similar? Thanks.
Straight line performance gains come from a dig to 1/4 mile runs and by tuning your toe and camber angles, allow a lot larger tire patch contact to the ground. Adjusting camber angles and also less toe, allows tires to roll easier/quicker. 1/4 mile and vbox test will show improvements and how verify your suspension tune changes. lowered cars have a lot less tire contact than stock.
Bottom, line is a adjustable suspension kit will allow the suspension to react quicker and most of all give you options on tuning your rear suspension to meet your needs. May it be handling , 1/4 mile or just saving a ton of cash on un-even tire wear.

E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.

E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd





Straight line performance gains come from a dig to 1/4 mile runs and by tuning your toe and camber angles, allow a lot larger tire patch contact to the ground. Adjusting camber angles and also less toe, allows tires to roll easier/quicker. 1/4 mile and vbox test will show improvements and how verify your suspension tune changes. lowered cars have a lot less tire contact than stock.
Bottom, line is a adjustable suspension kit will allow the suspension to react quicker and most of all give you options on tuning your rear suspension to meet your needs. May it be handling , 1/4 mile or just saving a ton of cash on un-even tire wear.
This kind of hardware (not necessarily this brand, but these kinds of adjustable arms) just address simple physics and geometry. The bigger the rubber patch on the ground, the better your traction - that's physics. When you drop a car on its existing control arms the tires sit on the inner edges - that's geometry. Tires on their edges don't grip as well - physics again. And they wear faster.
Race cars aren't just lowered on their existing mount points like so many "tuned" street cars. They have exactly this kind of hardware in the rear, plus camber and castor plates in the front to get alignment back where it should be.
Negative camber at a road course (track) makes sense because the cornering forces lean the loaded tires back to straight with full contact. Without negative camber at the track you get poor traction and excessive outer edge wear because the outside tire is pushed over toward the sidewall. Most race cars run 3.5 to 5 degrees negative
Negative camber doesn't make sense on the street. I wouldn't go more than half degree rear or full degree on the front for day to day use.
****ed up toe doesn't make sense anywhere, not even on a camel, yet that's what a lot of lowered street cars have.
You don't need this if your car is stock height, but if you have lowered it you need this or something like it. What is really "bling" is lowering a highly engineered German car to a point that the existing suspension components leave the wheels canted at bizarre angels that actually hurt performance.




Further, I'd like to know exactly what type of bushing they are using, as there have been some problems with the spherical vs fixed.
Without any previous user experience with this group seen on this or any other forum with the W204 C63, I'd like some more clarity before considering this as a solution vs KMAC or Agency Power.
Neither question was answered. Just more "marketingspeak". This is what the previous poster, and I, were pointing out.
All the camber arms look pretty similar except some have rubber bushings and a couple have spherical bearings. The K-Mac bushings do not sound attractive based upon what I have read, and I will leave my comments at that.
I'd like to see your questions answered about earlier problems. However, there are some positive things written on the 211 forum too.
I personnaly don't care if dialing your alignment properly gives .1 or .4 in a straight line, because in truth that answer really depends on just how f**cked up the alignment was before these were installed. I think it is a bit of a distraction.
All I want are arms that allow me to dial in camber and toe properly, and then not have it break. These particular arms sure *LOOK* over-engineered to the naked eye. If I lower my car (which is likely) this or something like it will be part of the job.
Last edited by Hans Grenade; Apr 20, 2015 at 11:12 PM. Reason: typo
Question though, are you saying the factory adjustment can get a lowered car to zero toe? If so, that is good to know.
And if noise is an issue, what do you think about the aftermarket adjustable arms with rubber bushings? Better?
This kind of hardware (not necessarily this brand, but these kinds of adjustable arms) just address simple physics and geometry. The bigger the rubber patch on the ground, the better your traction - that's physics. When you drop a car on its existing control arms the tires sit on the inner edges - that's geometry. Tires on their edges don't grip as well - physics again. And they wear faster.
Race cars aren't just lowered on their existing mount points like so many "tuned" street cars. They have exactly this kind of hardware in the rear, plus camber and castor plates in the front to get alignment back where it should be.
Negative camber at a road course (track) makes sense because the cornering forces lean the loaded tires back to straight with full contact. Without negative camber at the track you get poor traction and excessive outer edge wear because the outside tire is pushed over toward the sidewall. Most race cars run 3.5 to 5 degrees negative
Negative camber doesn't make sense on the street. I wouldn't go more than half degree rear or full degree on the front for day to day use.
****ed up toe doesn't make sense anywhere, not even on a camel, yet that's what a lot of lowered street cars have.
You don't need this if your car is stock height, but if you have lowered it you need this or something like it. What is really "bling" is lowering a highly engineered German car to a point that the existing suspension components leave the wheels canted at bizarre angels that actually hurt performance.
1) All the kits go out with Spherical rods ends on both ends, just like in the big picture Shardul posted in the opening thread for all to see. If you want fixed ends or something custom, PM me or Shardul. In the last 10 years or so, quality rod ends are quiet, self lubricating and injected with nylon and other materials to make them durable.
(From the opening thread) * Self lubricating, self sealing , injected nylon races
2) We do find stock cars benefit from being able to adjust toe and camber, since MB tends to lock in a lot of camber , that still creates more inner tire wear. Also the suspension sags with some wear and tear, making camber angles more negative.
Below is how I run my toe and camber on my CL55 but others with 204, 211, 212 and 220 class make all kinds of custom adjustments. Some people want the VIP look and that is where you rake the camber angle in as extreme as possible. For me, I like straight line racing, like Texas mile, 1/4 mile or half mile runs, so I like the least amount of rolling resistance as possible.

E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
Question though, are you saying the factory adjustment can get a lowered car to zero toe? If so, that is good to know.
And if noise is an issue, what do you think about the aftermarket adjustable arms with rubber bushings? Better?




See, I can admit where I’m wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
See, I can admit where I’m wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
See, I can admit where I’m wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.




See, I can admit where I’m wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
Thanks again for the help and feedback. I very much appreciate it.







