When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Hey Mort, just an FYI to keep an eye on those bushings. Mine slip under heavy load no matter how gorilla tight I make them. I had the top strut opening ground out so I can get all the adjustability I need from the camber plate, and will replace the thrust arm with KMAC bushing with a spherical uniball from Syncro Design Works (still to be installed). Just beware of camber changes.
Also, I see above that you have a 9.5” wide wheel in front? Tell me more about this please. I don’t think you worked your front fenders, and thought that even a 9” would be tight.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Hey Mort, just an FYI to keep an eye on those bushings. Mine slip under heavy load no matter how gorilla tight I make them. I had the top strut opening ground out so I can get all the adjustability I need from the camber plate, and will replace the thrust arm with KMAC bushing with a spherical uniball from Syncro Design Works (still to be installed). Just beware of camber changes.
Also, I see above that you have a 9.5” wide wheel in front? Tell me more about this please. I don’t think you worked your front fenders, and thought that even a 9” would be tight.
Hey BLKROKT, thanks for the heads up I will keep an eye on the camber. I don't push the car as hard as you do so maybe I will be fine.
My Brixtons are no longer 9.5". I rebarrelled them because they were rubbing on the spring mount on my KWV3. I did run a 3mm spacer to avoid rubbing the strut but then I figured I couldn't run a 255 front tire. So the 20x9.5" ET +40 with 245/30/20 did work with a 3mm spacer. They did not rub on the fender but the 245 was stretched a bit on the 9.5 wide wheel. I did not bother trying the 255 first I just went with the 9" width. Now I am running a 255/30/20 on 20x9.0" ET +33.4mm and think I could run a 265 without rubbing. The problem with a 265 for me is the tire is starting to get quite tall at 26.25". I might see if I can squeeze then in there when it comes time for replacement.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Mod 21 - UPD Billet Idler Pulleys
I swapped in a set of UPD Idler Pulleys over the winter. They are very nicely built and seem to be a high quality item. If you are worried about the stock pulleys breaking and losing a belt then this may be a good mod for you. Reach out to Shardul and he will look after you. When the stock pulleys wear out and you lose a belt you are likely to suffer from torn electrical cables and that really adds to the complexity and cost of the belt failure. Best to perform some sort of preventative maintenance or at least keep an eye on the condition of the idler pulleys. As the C63s age and mileage adds up this type of damage becomes more prevalent.
I did this preemptive maintenance early at 34710 kms and 6 plus years of service. As it turns out my belt and pulleys where in excellent condition and didn't really need to be replaced yet. I am happy with the results and one less thing to worry about. I didn't bother to replace the tensioner pulley yet as it was still in very good condition.
[QUOTE=Mort;7486374]Hey ritalin, thanks. Yes I did both bushings camber and castor. I set the camber bushing all the way in for the lowest possible camber setting. Then I adjusted the castor bushing so it had the least amount of tension on it. Then I did the alignment by adjusting the camber and castor at the top plate. It did take me a bit of time and trial and error but in the end I got the settings even side to side for camber -1*40' with a slight bit more camber on the right 5' or so. Then I set the caster at ~ 11*22.5' on the left and 12*0' on the right. This was to negate any crown in the road and fortunately the car drives very well. Nice and straight with no pull in either direction. I have KWV3 so it is relatively easy to adjust the ride height on the front and get the car even from side to side. I set the toe to 0* on the front and it seems to drive fine without any odd handling characteristics. I set the toe on the rear to 1/8" or ~ 0.33* (0*20'). I didn't want the car to get to lively in the rear especially at high speeds. I would like to lower the car a bit more but the rear will rub if I do and does snick a bit from time to time on the left rear and that is with me alone in the car. The car is even front to rear and side to side at 25 7/8" from the fender lip to the garage floor.
Last edited by K-Mac; 06-25-2018 at 02:44 AM.
Reason: Send to the wrong person
Hey Mort, just an FYI to keep an eye on those bushings. Mine slip under heavy load no matter how gorilla tight I make them. I had the top strut opening ground out so I can get all the adjustability I need from the camber plate, and will replace the thrust arm with KMAC bushing with a spherical uniball from Syncro Design Works (still to be installed). Just beware of camber changes.
Also, I see above that you have a 9.5” wide wheel in front? Tell me more about this please. I don’t think you worked your front fenders, and thought that even a 9” would be tight.
Background info on these Camber / Caster bushings - is that they are continually proven in all out 10 / 10th’s competition racing. Big heavy V8’s hitting race curbs at end of main straight, launching and becoming fully airborne then slamming down broadside lap after lap. Proven so much so situations where Race safety scrutineers rule only K-MAC bushings are allowed to be used.
Results / examination show - slippage occurs only if not fully tightened “initially”.
This movement causing the tips of the internal (and external) hardened teeth to wear off preventing full clamping / locking.
So BlkrokI advise address and will send you a new pair of these Camber bushings and ensure (not gorilla tight – but) 90ft / lbs torque specs.
RE THE THRUST ARM BUSHES – not only are they precisely “Caster” adjustable (no adjustment OEM) but again through long term race track testing /trialing we went on from initial spherical bearing concept to developing our current design whereby it has allowed a major increase in this “Uni / Mono ball” load bearing surface area - for both significantly enhanced durability and effectiveness (more than ‘4’ times that of the basic spherical bearing which are subject to prematurely pounding out).
So BlkrokI advise address and will send you a new pair of these Camber bushings and ensure (not gorilla tight – but) 90ft / lbs torque specs.
Good to see a company supporting their product! And being involved on these forums. I just ordered front and rear bushing kits and a stage 2 kit for the front. Looking forward to getting them installed.
Well I finally received my new wheels, the wait was excruciating. The wheels are Brixton WR3 Duo 20 x 9.5 ET+40 and 20 x 11 ET+16. The faces are Polished Carbon Bronze with Satin Clear and the barrels are Satin Black with hidden hardware. A big SHOUT OUT and many thanks go to Brian Edson from Supreme Power. He went well above and beyond in working with me all the way through the decision making process and purchase of these wheels. Thanks Brian!
I love these wheels.
I got these wheels to compliment my HMS fender flairs project.
Hey Mort, I’ve been reading your thread with interest, namely the HMS part as my car is in the shop now having the same work done. I notice your rear wheels are ultra aggressive, 11” with ET16. From my research the HMS kit puts around 40mm per side on the rear so I wondered how you got your whes to fit owing to them apparently protruding over 60mm per side (according to a wheel calculator). Do you have any tips?
I'm just about to order my wheels but I’m torn on the rear offset. With a rear widening of 40mm per side, I surely would need 11” ET 37 to ensure the wheels is flush with the arch but also doesn’t hit the strut.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by Mort
More pics with my Axioms installed 8.5x19 ET +44 front with a 13mm spacer and 10x19 ET +52 rear with a 50mm spacer. My car is as low as it will go on the rear KWV3. The wheels faces are not quite flush but close at -3.25* camber front and -2.25* rear.
These pics give an idea of how the car looks with spacers to fill out the wheel well arches.
Cozy, this is how I sized my rear wheels. If you read the quoted thread you will see that I am running 10X19 ET+52 wheels with a 50 mm spacer. The pictures give a pretty good idea of the fit. If you run this combination through the wheel calculator you will see that it is very close to the offset of my Brixton wheels for a poke of 123.7mm. The HMS flares on my car allowed approximately 60mm per side over the stock wheel offset. I think the HMS add 50 mm per side and you can run a 10 -15 mm spacer on a stock wheel for a total of 60-65mm. Look forward to seeing your car and your wheel choice.
Thanks for coming back to me, I really appreciate it.
OK, I see how you did it so your ET16 makes perfect sense. What is confusing me is that my shop is telling me that it’s only 40mm per side so I’d need to be in the ET37 range. I have a coupe so perhaps this is where it differs, although I notice this HMS car here in the GB thread also had around a 40mm per side gain with his Ultraleggera wheels, 10x19 ET25 do give a 41mm “poke”.
I’m not sure whether it’s best I just get the car home on the stock wheels and figure it out myself when it’s here. I trust in the shop but I would be so annoyed if I ordered wheels that were too sunken in the fender.
06-23-2018, 05:27 PM
