Negative camber for track cars
The "crash bolts" not sure who decided to start calling them this. They are simply adjustment bolts will only get you about 20 minutes of extra camber.... 60 minutes in a degree = 1/3 degree. yah! i can do math.
A stiffer front sway bar is possibly the worst thing you could do - saw that mentioned earlier in the thread.
More camber good idea and should help.
More Toe out in the front end should help as well. typically most benz's are running 20-30 minutes of total toe IN. Track prepped cars are running 10-20 minutes of toe OUT. this will kill your tires much quicker on the street but something to consider if you're that hardcore. tire life reduced to say 3k mi rather than 10k mi for the fronts.
Widest front tire possible or since this isnt all that easy - consider running a smaller one in the back to help rotate the car with more throttle.
stiffen the dampening in the rear to promote oversteer, soften front end dampening to allow for maximum grip and traction
Lower isn't always better. This always depends on each individual setup, just because lower center gravity is better and looks cooler, ruining suspension geometry to get super low can make the car handle way worse than it would with stock ride height.
some of this is common sense but i think most of the focus has been solely on camber in this thread thus far. And for you big time track rats- keep in mind if you drive your car to the track and make alignment adjustments to the camber this directly affects the toe! I've seen and known plenty of people that have marks on there centrics/cam bolts for camber and mark where to set them back to for track and street settings. Thats great and you gained your negative camber temporarily for the track day but you totally screwed up the toe settings for it which may make the change to camber negligible, so unless you really know your **** or like playing with tape measures and strings keep that in mind.
Glad to see people actually tracking these beasts! keep it up!
Always keep in mind that stiffer isnt necessarily better. The only reason race cars run insane stiffness is because they have insane downforce and it rides like dog **** at low speeds because at high speeds that 1000lbs of extra down force is being applied to the suspension. My lotus taught me this best, that to handle good it doesnt have to be stiff. The softer it is the more mechanical grip the suspension can use when setup properly. Hence why most of these adjustable electric dampener cars actually have faster lap times in comfort mode rathar than sport or sport plus.
I am running KW V3 with K-Mac plates (Thanks Kevin). My alignment settings are -3.5 front and -3 rear with 0 toe all around, I will try pulling less camber out in the rear. No track time yet but the K-Mac plates really help with turn in and you can definitely feel the difference on how the car rotates - less resistance when dealing with the front heavy bias.
Great to see the front adjustable strut tops have allowed you to achieve the 3.5 degrees Negative Camber!
Do point out that the K-MAC front bushes (replacing the 4 major highest wearing bushes) will allow to increase this to 4.5 degrees plus 30mm increase in track width!
The design also does away with the OEM oil and air voids yet still with 2 axis movement. Result is noticeably improved brake and steering response.
Method is to record both Street and Track (from Toe settings). The 4.5 degree Camber setting can then be easily adjusted from engine bay on track days. Dramatically reducing understeer in the quest to hit those corner apexes every time and allowing to go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response - to further lower those lap times!
REDUCING THE EXCESS NEGATIVE CAMBER ON THE REAR:
Unlike upper rear Camber arms that need to move top of tire outwards and are difficult to access – we have designed the K-MAC adjusters to move lower arm inwards and easy access – single wrench. With the aid of tire heat probe at track side can quickly fine adjust settings for maximum traction.
I can tell you the whole story about the wheels and try to calculate an approximate offset, but it would be still be approximation because I don't know what the starting offsets were when they were 8.5" wide. I can made an educated guess, but it's still going to be a guess.
I was running about 3.5-4 degrees negative camber. 4 is a bit much and you can feel front grip while braking, diminish. 3.5-3.7 is probably the sweet spot.
I can tell you the whole story about the wheels and try to calculate an approximate offset, but it would be still be approximation because I don't know what the starting offsets were when they were 8.5" wide. I can made an educated guess, but it's still going to be a guess.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I was running about 3.5-4 degrees negative camber. 4 is a bit much and you can feel front grip while braking, diminish. 3.5-3.7 is probably the sweet spot.




You missed the earlier post in this string:
OEM W212 E63 wheels on a C63 with 255/275 tires
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...tment-c63.html
OEM W212 E63 wheels on a C63 with 255/275 tires
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...tment-c63.html
Thanks,
Doug




1. What range do the bushings alone provide. The listing on the KMAC site does not provide the range. Based on what I read here, it claims 4 times the range of the stock bolts so I'm assuming its 1.2 +/- degrees of adjustment?







