ritalin

In the past i had a CEL for my o2 sensors.
I replaced both of them and all has been well.
At the time i used my friends launch hand held to clear the temp codes and the CEL went away but the handheld was showing a permanent trouble code for the o2 sensor. I have also tried my recently aquired obd link mx and it does not clear the permanent code. Is there any way to clear these in the DME without a dealership visit?

Jasonoff

Since it's an emissions code, it should clear itself once readiness is reset/re-run for that drive cycle.

ritalin

Hmmm, i had driven the car 2247 km's since clearing the dtc and no change.

jptaylor

Open the trunk to access the battery...loosen and remove both the negative and the positive cables from the battery....now connect the disconnected + and - cables TOGETHER(all they need to do is be touching each other) and leave them like this for about 10min...this is known as a hard reset and will drain all of the different ecus and modules internal batteries....untether the cables and replace the + cable first, then hook back up the -...this WILL remove any stored codes from the ecus and give you a clean slate to begin from

CRAZYKEN

I unplugged the negative terminal for 30 minutes. Hooked it back up and still has permanent codes still stored. I also noticed my stations were kept too. Need another solution to reset ECU. Maybe when I get my tune the tuner can delete it. Hmmmm

CK

jptaylor

I didn't say to disconnect and let sit for 10min....reread my post-i said to disconnect both cables and CONNECT THEM TOGETHER IN ORDER TO DISCHARGE THE COMPONENTS INTERNAL MEMORY BATTERIES....

ritalin

Thanks. Would this effect a tune?

jptaylor

Absolutely not....I do it to mine about once a month just to get all the adaptives to clear and i have never had an issue with the tune

cays

Will the address list from memory be lost in the navi?

jptaylor

I can't answer that, I have never checked but it is VERY possible

BLKROKT

Will I still retain memory of how to operate the car if I do this, or will I have to learn all over again

jptaylor

With most people complete loss of operational knowledge of the vehicle in question is doubtful... But with YOU my friend not only will you surely lose the ability to operate your beloved C63 but it is possible that you will lose the right to vote, you will change political parties, your insurance rate will skyrocket AND I am almost certain that you will most likelybe required to undergo elective secondary adult circumcision....

BLKROKT

jptaylor

Figured you'd like that....

abcut973

Particular strange that code was kept stored.
Generally it clears if the fault has been corrected.
Will be good to know from OP if the hard reset worked.

ritalin

Thanks again.

ritalin

I'll let you know once i try it.

jptaylor

Sure thing

Scott Little

aaaaand, another thread abandoned by OP. People, it doesn't help anyone if you follow advice given in a thread and don't come back with results!

ritalin

No change with regards to the code being stored. Car runs great and no cel so i just gave up for now.
Ill re visit if it becomes and issue.

mthis

This happens to me when i clear codes with cheap devices. Like wifi obd2 or other ones that dont have the enhanced MB program. No cel on dash but its stored.

Then i clear it with autoenginuaty and it take longer to come back and car runs better.

ritalin

I might have to try that mthis.
My car seems to be missing at idle again.
The permanent code for bank 1 sensor 1 is still present in the dme, with no cel. I tried the hard reset suggested here, did nothing, unless 15 mins wasnt long enough.
At this point im going to try another o2 sensor and see if maybe the current one i purchased which was brand new, possibly has an issue.....
I did replace the other bank o2 sensor and there is no permanent code for that stored.

bhamg

I have this bookmarked - maybe it'll help.

http://www.autoserviceworld.com/cars...ermanent-dtcs/

bhamg

ritalin - The following is the GM drive cycle. When I had an issue a while back I tried the generic version of the drive cycle and it didn't work. I went out at midnight two nights in a row using this version. At the conclusion of the run on the second night my permanent code was gone. YMMV. Note that though I followed the instructions as best as I could I had to make two stops (stop sign and light) before I made it on to the freeway. The coast-downs I performed on long exit ramps. Luckily, where I live the ramps are very long and allow for that. The cold start is very important and my car spent 24hrs in the garage, hood up. Following the instructions to the letter is impossible for most of us so it's a bit of a crapshoot.

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.

Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.

Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

ritalin

Thanks. Ill give it a try. I do have the eurocharged tune and i am catless as well. I wonder if this is an issue with regards to the permanent dtc?