285/30-19 track tires




Alternately the MPSC2 ZP's (run flats) come in this size, but then I would have to run a non-ZP on the front which doesn't sound like a particularly good idea.
Any other suggestions? Reminder, in a 285/30-19 only thanks.





P.S. The MPSS is really not a good track tire... so the difference to a proper R-comp like the Dunlops would be night and day.








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I couldn't resist... yeah, the 285's will fit fine. If they rub then I'll just bend/cut stuff.




Last edited by BLKROKT; Apr 5, 2016 at 09:29 PM.
Look into some 18" TE37 or 18" Rays G25s. I'veh eard the G25s clear one brake size higher, and I know the 18" TE37s will clear.
For example, 18" TE37s clear the 380MM BREMBOs on M3s. Usually 18s only clear 350MM.
I've cleared 350MM BREMBOs on 17" TE37s. So, I'm willing to bet that the 390MM should clear the 18" setup.




Mazspeed - have you run the tires yet? How do you like them? What pressures are you running? Any differences before and after heat-cycling them? And, do you have & use a pyrometer by any chance and if yes, what temperatures are you seeing?




Going to try and shove a 285/30-19 back there. The tire has a very square profile. Although I'm only going from a 275/30 (MPSS) to a 285/30, the tire is a full 0.5" wider, and about 0.25" taller. Will post up results along the way of what had to be done to get them to fit....




Mazspeed - have you run the tires yet? How do you like them? What pressures are you running? Any differences before and after heat-cycling them? And, do you have & use a pyrometer by any chance and if yes, what temperatures are you seeing?
I have run them and I like them. A lot. I think right now on the street I am running around F37 R38.5 and it seems to be the right balance on a 80 degree day. You can get around 30-40 heat cycles out of the tire. Sadly I don't have a pyrometer. Like any other race oriented tire, you want to warm it up completely before going for it, or else you might chunk them, but I have seen some good abuse out of them from media day testing and even some of the lesser experienced guys had not chunked them. For a light weight tire, it's surprisingly resilient.




Going to try and shove a 285/30-19 back there. The tire has a very square profile. Although I'm only going from a 275/30 (MPSS) to a 285/30, the tire is a full 0.5" wider, and about 0.25" taller. Will post up results along the way of what had to be done to get them to fit....
Very soft sidewall. I would not recommend. Especially if you're pushing widths.




Sport Maxx Race tires are molded with approximately 8/32" of tread depth in their grooves and are left unshaved for use on damp tracks. While the tires do not require shaving for dry track use, their durability and lap time performance will improve if shaved to approximately 4/32" deep tread to begin competitive road racing/track use in dry conditions, however this will sacrifice significant treadlife.
Sport Maxx Race tires are molded with approximately 8/32" of tread depth in their grooves and are left unshaved for use on damp tracks. While the tires do not require shaving for dry track use, their durability and lap time performance will improve if shaved to approximately 4/32" deep tread to begin competitive road racing/track use in dry conditions, however this will sacrifice significant treadlife.
I think generally it depends a lot on the design of the tire. I am told the R888s for example don't seem to benefit nearly as much from shaving due to the tread design.
Furthermore, if you're going to be driving on them to and from the the track, I'd opt on the safe side and leave them with full tread. On the street, cold R-comps (by cold I mean street driving temperatures) are already considerably worse in terms of dry grip than, say, a 10-year-old 740 treadwear all-season grand touring tire. Add a little bit of water in the mix, and in the wet you have about as much grip as a bucket of wet eels (think skating rink here). That would by far be my biggest concern if I were driving to and from the track on them.




And, if you have no choice but to roll and/or stretch the fenders and don't want to use a big enuf hammer, this is the tool that you'll need: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-ro...struction.html.






