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12. Find someone to weld on and hang Magnaflows. 3” from resonators back, hang mufflers right under diffuser. Notch/dent trunk spare tire area as needed. Right now there are no mufflers and the car sounds crazy loud like a diesel truck. My neighbors hate me.
Nice, so you're headers to resinators (OE or aftermarket?) then to those mufflers?
For my track build I was thinking headers, to vibrant res (not sure which one yet) then to something like above for mufflers. It can't be crazy loud becuse the tracks around here will dB test.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Jasonoff
Nice, so you're headers to resinators (OE or aftermarket?) then to those mufflers?
For my track build I was thinking headers, to vibrant res (not sure which one yet) then to something like above for mufflers. It can't be crazy loud becuse the tracks around here will dB test.
MBH headers to high flow cats to MBH x-pipe straight back to the mufflers. No resonators. No secondary cats. 3” pipe throughout.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Diabolis
Nicely done Sir Jim! Yes, the calipers do suffer from the heat, and even with the RB rotors enough heat gets transferred to the hat and wheels that I managed to cook the paint on the centers on my CCWs after a couple of track days earlier this year. Am particularly interested to find out how are you going to route the brake cooling ducts... that would be a worthwhile upgrade on mine that only sees occasional track duty.
Thanks Doug. I also melted my Vorsteiner center caps years ago. The wheels get surprisingly hot. If the wheels are getting that hot, I figured it was time to replace the hubs just out of caution. The Ti plates have helped, and the RacingBrake stainless pistons should further reduce the transferred heat to the calipers and fluid at least.
I got the drivers side more or less back together tonight and had a chance to poke around looking for duct routing. I’m thinking to punch through the fender liner (yes, I see that I still need to keep most of it) right where circled below, it’s a straight shot to the duct on the brake shield. There’s a 4” gap to the subframe although I assume that thrust arm will reduce the clearance more than that. From there, there’s room to snake the hose forward hugging the alternator. Then all the air injection crap is in the way but I’m going to chuck all that for a straight shot to the grill.
That’s the idea anyway. Air injection tomorrow if I can finish the calipers.
Really appreciate it you updating us with all this. Specially for newbies like me who are getting into driving on the track. I'm learning alot. Thank you!
Thanks Jim - really appreciate the writeup. Last time I had a look at the car on a hoist I couldn't figure out a way to get brake cooling ducts to the front, but if you're getting rid of the cats and air injection gubbins then they may fit.
P.S. I seem to recall reading that you had some air deflectors from a 996 fitted to the thrust arms. Did they make any difference - or did I dream that up?
Last edited by Diabolis; Aug 19, 2019 at 12:36 AM.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Diabolis
Thanks Jim - really appreciate the writeup. Last time I had a look at the car on a hoist I couldn't figure out a way to get brake cooling ducts to the front, but if you're getting rid of the cats and air injection gubbins then they may fit.
P.S. I seem to recall reading that you had some air deflectors from a 996 fitted to the thrust arms. Did they make any difference - or did I dream that up?
I might be able to sneak the hose through to the front without getting rid of the air injection. Stay tuned.
I had 996 GT3 Cup brake ducts on but I couldn’t tell any difference. They were mounted on the thrust arms rather than the LCA’s, which I think kept them too high up and out of any significant airflow. I’m going to try and reuse them on the LCA’s. Will post that up when I get to it. Added to the list, it ain’t getting shorter.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Ok. Got the calipers done today. Overall pretty smooth except for one thing...
First here are the brakes all repainted. My clear coat didn’t turn out as nice as I would have liked (a little hazy), but whatever. 3 coats of paint, 2 coats of clear, cured for an hour at 250F then another 30min at 300F for good measure. Should be durable at least.
Here’s the new RacingBrake hardware. Stainless steel vented pistons, dust boots and oil seals. Shiny.
High temp blue silicone dust boots pop right on the pistons. Easy.
Using the Centric brake caliper assembly lube for the oil seals and cylinder walls. Do NOT use brake fluid to lube everything up because it’ll destroy the dust boots. Plus this stuff is more slippery. Clean the piston bores, lube up, the oil seals click right in. Lube the pistons up and insert slowly. They should slide right in down to the oil seals with zero effort. One of my piston bores that was a little gouged had to be sanded a bit for the new piston to slide in unimpeded. Once they’re at the oil seal, rotate back and forth with a little pressure and the piston should slide to the bottom of the bore. So far so good.
Assembled calipers. New bleeders too. BUT, let’s look more closely.....
These fukin dust boots are the bane of my existence. I can’t get them to fully seat no matter what I do. They’ll seat on the horizontal insides, but on the verticals they’re clearly not all the way in there. I fought with it for an hour and gave up. If anyone has a trick here I’m all ears.
On to the air injection removal (maybe) and brake duct routing tomorrow....
I hated rebuilding calipers. Yes getting the dust boots to seat was the most frustrating part. Probably the dirtiest I ever got working on my car. Looks like you made it out clean!
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by RacingBrake
Nice caliper rebuild.
You should use the caliper grease pack (green pouch) supplied with the kit.
Thanks Warren @RacingBrake , kit is great quality! Can’t wait to put it to good use.
Do you have any tips for getting the silicone dust boots to seat? Should they be fully seated and flat to the caliper body on all sides? The OEM dust boots were not seated flush on all sides, so I’m thinking that this may just be how they sit on these calipers?
Also those green grease packs included with the seals - those are grease for the external hardware like pins, back of pad and springs, stated as such by Permatex. They specifically say not to use on oil seals because it’s incompatible with brake fluid. I used the Centric assembly fluid for the pistons and seals as recommended by Brembo, Zeckhausen and others. Are you saying I should use this just on the dust boots to get them seated? Or should I have used internally on pistons and seals which goes against everything I’m reading? Everything seems fine with the assembly, just need help on the dust boots at this point please thanks.
And finally do you have any ideas around caliper studs? I’m trying to find a M12 stud with a 28mm thread depth and 85-90mm overall length. Porsche Motorsport Cup caliper studs look like they might fit. Trying to track those down, Tarett makes some, or an ARP equivalent. I don’t want to keep threading into my aluminum RB adapters with the OE bolts anymore (they are also longer than the RB bolts that just came out).
1. Do you have any tips for getting the silicone dust boots to seat? Should they be fully seated and flat to the caliper body on all sides? The OEM dust boots were not seated flush on all sides, so I’m thinking that this may just be how they sit on these calipers?
Not necessary. It's inconsistent depending on how OE calipers (Brembo) have the boots housing made although our boots are made with same flange thickness.Your install looks fine with me and you should have no concern as long as it's below piston flange.
2. Also those green grease packs included with the seals - those are grease for the external hardware like pins, back of pad and springs, stated as such by Permatex. They specifically say not to use on oil seals because it’s incompatible with brake fluid. I used the Centric assembly fluid for the pistons and seals as recommended by Brembo, Zeckhausen and others. Are you saying I should use this just on the dust boots to get them seated? Or should I have used internally on pistons and seals which goes against everything I’m reading? Everything seems fine with the assembly, just need help on the dust boots at this point please thanks.
Yes this is the grease pack included for lubricating the seal (you can also use brake fluid), we have been using this lubricant with thousands of piston/seal assembly for many years with w/o one single issue. If you read the instruction one more time you will find it's to be applied to "pins, slides & pistons" Dust boots should never get lubricated.
3.And finally do you have any ideas around caliper studs? I’m trying to find a M12 stud with a 28mm thread depth and 85-90mm overall length. Porsche Motorsport Cup caliper studs look like they might fit. Trying to track those down, Tarett makes some, or an ARP equivalent. I don’t want to keep threading into my aluminum RB adapters with the OE bolts anymore (they are also longer than the RB bolts that just came out).
We offer a complete range of caliper mounting bolts (including 85mm). They are made of alloy steel certified to 12.9 grade (GT-R track racer's favorite replacement to OE bolts) https://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7195.htm
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by RacingBrake
1. Do you have any tips for getting the silicone dust boots to seat? Should they be fully seated and flat to the caliper body on all sides? The OEM dust boots were not seated flush on all sides, so I’m thinking that this may just be how they sit on these calipers?
Not necessary. It's inconsistent depending on how OE calipers (Brembo) have the boots housing made although our boots are made with same flange thickness.Your install looks fine with me and you should have no concern as long as it's below piston flange.
2. Also those green grease packs included with the seals - those are grease for the external hardware like pins, back of pad and springs, stated as such by Permatex. They specifically say not to use on oil seals because it’s incompatible with brake fluid. I used the Centric assembly fluid for the pistons and seals as recommended by Brembo, Zeckhausen and others. Are you saying I should use this just on the dust boots to get them seated? Or should I have used internally on pistons and seals which goes against everything I’m reading? Everything seems fine with the assembly, just need help on the dust boots at this point please thanks.
Yes this is the grease pack included for lubricating the seal (you can also use brake fluid), we have been using this lubricant with thousands of piston/seal assembly for many years with w/o one single issue. If you read the instruction one more time you will find it's to be applied to "pins, slides & pistons" Dust boots should never get lubricated.
3.And finally do you have any ideas around caliper studs? I’m trying to find a M12 stud with a 28mm thread depth and 85-90mm overall length. Porsche Motorsport Cup caliper studs look like they might fit. Trying to track those down, Tarett makes some, or an ARP equivalent. I don’t want to keep threading into my aluminum RB adapters with the OE bolts anymore (they are also longer than the RB bolts that just came out).
We offer a complete range of caliper mounting bolts (including 85mm). They are made of alloy steel certified to 12.9 grade (GT-R track racer's favorite replacement to OE bolts) https://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7195.htm
1 & 2. Good to know, thank you!
3. @RacingBrake I was looking to replace the reverse hex caliper bolts altogether, and use steel studs with nuts instead (see Porsche Motorsport Cup caliper studs or the offering by Tarett). Fairly common in Porsche world. The idea being that I don’t want to screw a hard steel caliper bolt into my nice aluminum RB BBK adapter over and over again, potentially wearing or damaging the threads over time (steel-to-al bad). I’d rather drive a steel stud in there and have steel nuts holding the caliper on (steel-steel good). If I’m going to keep removing my calipers I think this may be the better long-term solution. Is this something you might be interested to make? If people are buying these BBK and rebuild kits, they’d probably be interested in studs too.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by deadlyvt
What brakes are you using? I am guessing the stock front calipers with the black series rotors? Did you do the backs with the larger caliper as well?
RacingBrake BBK front and rear. Has adapters for front knuckles to space out the calipers correctly for the 390mm rotors. Rear calipers are OEM Black Series with 360mm rotors.
3. @RacingBrake I was looking to replace the reverse hex caliper bolts altogether, and use steel studs with nuts instead (see Porsche Motorsport Cup caliper studs or the offering by Tarett). Fairly common in Porsche world. The idea being that I don’t want to screw a hard steel caliper bolt into my nice aluminum RB BBK adapter over and over again, potentially wearing or damaging the threads over time (steel-to-al bad). I’d rather drive a steel stud in there and have steel nuts holding the caliper on (steel-steel good). If I’m going to keep removing my calipers I think this may be the better long-term solution. Is this something you might be interested to make? If people are buying these BBK and rebuild kits, they’d probably be interested in studs too.
Your C63 calipers have open top so it's every easy to maintain and replace the pad w/o having to remove the calipers like those Porsche late models (991+, see pic below) with closed top. Once C63 calipers are installed most likely you will never have to detach the calipers from the spindle until you have them rebuilt like you just did.
It's always better to keep the set up "stock" or "industrial standard" (eg. Standard M12 bolts vs. special bolts), for easy replacement, availability and lower maintenance cost, but if you think you will be rebuilding your calipers as often as pad change may be that's a good option.
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