C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015

HELP TRANSMISSION

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Old 05-07-2017, 02:36 AM
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Exclamation HELP TRANSMISSION

Hi ,

I need help. I have 2014 C63 Sedan i bought from the auction. it got rear ended. I put it in Drive or Reverse it doesn't go. not sure if the transmission is gone. When i put it back on Park i heard a grind thru the shifter. Anyone have this issue? Is it because its on Limp Mode? There is a transmission module code

*TCM* Fault 1
The Left Rear Wheel Speed Signal From Traction System is not available on the CAN bus


Please let me know if someone can help thank you.
Old 05-07-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
Hi ,

I need help. I have 2014 C63 Sedan i bought from the auction. it got rear ended. I put it in Drive or Reverse it doesn't go. not sure if the transmission is gone. When i put it back on Park i heard a grind thru the shifter. Anyone have this issue? Is it because its on Limp Mode? There is a transmission module code

*TCM* Fault 1
The Left Rear Wheel Speed Signal From Traction System is not available on the CAN bus


Please let me know if someone can help thank you.
I don't know if this will help you much, but a couple of things:

1. The TCXM fault "The Left Rear Wheel Speed Signal From Traction System is not available on the CAN bus" is telling you that the speed signal from the ;eft rear wheel is missing, which simply implies that the rear end hit was hard enough to dislodge or destroy whatever sensor was monitoring that wheel's speed.

2. If the hit was hard enough to wreck that sensor, that means the rear axle, and therefore the driveshaft, took a good hit, which the driveshaft would have transmitted to the transmission, right?

3. The grind you got when you put it back in park COULD mean the tranny was hit hard enough to damage its internals, OR it could simply mean the u-joint, which one would think would be the weak link in the driveline by design, is grinding against the tranny tailshaft because the hit compressed and deformed it.

Sorry, that's about all I can contribute.

Jim G
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:29 PM
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2014 C63 AMG
Exclamation

Originally Posted by JimGnitecki
I don't know if this will help you much, but a couple of things:

1. The TCXM fault "The Left Rear Wheel Speed Signal From Traction System is not available on the CAN bus" is telling you that the speed signal from the ;eft rear wheel is missing, which simply implies that the rear end hit was hard enough to dislodge or destroy whatever sensor was monitoring that wheel's speed.

2. If the hit was hard enough to wreck that sensor, that means the rear axle, and therefore the driveshaft, took a good hit, which the driveshaft would have transmitted to the transmission, right?

3. The grind you got when you put it back in park COULD mean the tranny was hit hard enough to damage its internals, OR it could simply mean the u-joint, which one would think would be the weak link in the driveline by design, is grinding against the tranny tailshaft because the hit compressed and deformed it.

Sorry, that's about all I can contribute.

Jim G

Thanks alot for the info!!!
Old 05-09-2017, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
Hi ,

I need help. I have 2014 C63 Sedan i bought from the auction. it got rear ended. I put it in Drive or Reverse it doesn't go. not sure if the transmission is gone. When i put it back on Park i heard a grind thru the shifter. Anyone have this issue? Is it because its on Limp Mode? There is a transmission module code

*TCM* Fault 1
The Left Rear Wheel Speed Signal From Traction System is not available on the CAN bus


Please let me know if someone can help thank you.
Probably a problem that will drive you crazy trying to self diagnose and most likely you won't get it all. If you have a good shop I suggest you let them sort it for you because it sure sounds like it has been hammered hard enough to do serious damage in many places. Besides, if it turns out just to be sensors you will have the peace of mind that comes from knowing all is well.
Old 05-09-2017, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
I heard a grind thru the shifter. Anyone have this issue?
Yes, I have had that issue. When I was rear ended into being car number 5 of a 6 car pile up. That car was a write off.

So, my first question to you is...did you buy it already rear ended, or did you buy it and then get rear ended. Sorry, your post was unclear.

I am suspecting it was a total loss, that was auctioned off, and you bought it that way. If that is the case.....seek help. As soon as you have any impact to the transmission or the motor, they just write these cars off, and theres a reason for that. Im not being flip here, but it really does sound as though there is no help that you are going to get here for this issue regardless.
There is no youtube DIY available lol.

See this pic here? This was my first C63. Its smooshed in the back, but I really got launched into a van with a steel box bumper. They never even did the math on the back. Why bother? Everything you see there is a bolt on part. Energy absorbing sections etc. Little to nobody work required, all just bolt on pieces, panels etc. My bodyshop told me later I had the tools to do 95% of this job.

EXCEPT.

The motor was impacted. Touched really, by parts driven back into it. Nobody was even sure if it had any real effect on the motor. No matter. Total loss.
Thats the way it is. The motor is half the value of that car. Not to be trifled with. Since the transmission is connected to the motor, if you got jammed from the back hard enough that it won't go into gear...they will figure its impacted the motor and write it off. Which is probably where you came in.

Seek professional help. If you had tools/skill to do this job you would already have the knowledge to know what you were looking at, and you'd be educating us.

Old 05-09-2017, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 604 C63
Yes, I have had that issue. When I was rear ended into being car number 5 of a 6 car pile up. That car was a write off.

So, my first question to you is...did you buy it already rear ended, or did you buy it and then get rear ended. Sorry, your post was unclear.

I am suspecting it was a total loss, that was auctioned off, and you bought it that way. If that is the case.....seek help. As soon as you have any impact to the transmission or the motor, they just write these cars off, and theres a reason for that. Im not being flip here, but it really does sound as though there is no help that you are going to get here for this issue regardless.
There is no youtube DIY available lol.

See this pic here? This was my first C63. Its smooshed in the back, but I really got launched into a van with a steel box bumper. They never even did the math on the back. Why bother? Everything you see there is a bolt on part. Energy absorbing sections etc. Little to nobody work required, all just bolt on pieces, panels etc. My bodyshop told me later I had the tools to do 95% of this job.

EXCEPT.

The motor was impacted. Touched really, by parts driven back into it. Nobody was even sure if it had any real effect on the motor. No matter. Total loss.
Thats the way it is. The motor is half the value of that car. Not to be trifled with. Since the transmission is connected to the motor, if you got jammed from the back hard enough that it won't go into gear...they will figure its impacted the motor and write it off. Which is probably where you came in.

Seek professional help. If you had tools/skill to do this job you would already have the knowledge to know what you were looking at, and you'd be educating us.



car was rear ended. auction listed run and drive thats why i bought it. I thought it was just body work thats why. when it got towed to the shop. i didn't except it wasn't going to move.
Old 05-09-2017, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
car was rear ended. auction listed run and drive thats why i bought it. I thought it was just body work thats why. when it got towed to the shop. i didn't except it wasn't going to move.
Gotcha. Let them do their thing, and it will all unfold. You'll learn soon enough what the issues are I suppose.
Old 05-09-2017, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 604 C63
Gotcha. Let them do their thing, and it will all unfold. You'll learn soon enough what the issues are I suppose.
first time buying a car from the auction
Old 05-09-2017, 02:39 AM
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604 C63, From the OP's initial post, it sounds like (a) there was a rearend collision ONLY, and (b) he successfully started the engine since he then put the tranny into gear. Then he heard a grind when he put it back into park.

So, we can conclude that IF the engine and/or tranny were damaged, the hit had to come from the rear, right?

In a situation like this, if the OP removes the front driveshaft u-joint, could he then perhaps be able to do the following tests to isolate specific damage location(s)? :

- If the rear axle can then NOT manually be turned once the u-joint has been removed, it means the rear axle was damaged by the collision, and THAT could have prevented the car from moving either forward or rearward as the OP found, no?

- If the rear axle DOES turn ok, then the damage preventing forward or reverse movement is located forward of it, right?

- If the u-joint is UNdamaged, that sort of would prove that no really hard hit was transmitted through it to the tranny, right? (The u-joint is sort of the "fuse" here, no?)

- If the u-joint WAS damaged, the OP could check to see if it is the damage to the u-joint that is preventing rotation of the driveshaft, thus producing the no-go symptoms in both forward and reverse gears as the OP found. If yes, he has found his problem. If no, go to the next test >

- If the u-joint damage is NOT what is preventing rotation of the driveshaft, we have already determined that the damage is not rearward of the tranny, so the tranny IS damaged, and like you said, at that point the tranny repair or replacement cost is probably prohibitive by itself, but if the tranny output shaft was hit hard enough to damage it, then the engine crank probably took a hit too, and that definitely blows the cost of repair right into the unacceptable range.

Would this diagnostic process work, or am I missing anything?

Jim G
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:57 AM
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:33 AM
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
car was rear ended. auction listed run and drive thats why i bought it. I thought it was just body work thats why. when it got towed to the shop. i didn't except it wasn't going to move.
That, as my 3 yr old grand daughter would say, was a major oweeee D
Out of curiosity how did ICBC handle it?
Old 05-09-2017, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JimGnitecki
if the OP removes the front driveshaft u-joint
Where's he gonna find that?
Old 05-09-2017, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jasonoff
Where's he gonna find that?
That doesn't matter. He just gives answers to the questions he wishes were asked.
Old 05-09-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Jasonoff
Where's he gonna find that?
Not in the parkade. The condo doesn't allow any work to be done down there.
Old 05-09-2017, 12:00 PM
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Sounds like you are in way over your head. Auction it off yourself and write it off as a lesson learned? A used tranny is going to be several K.

If it was a 2014 with cosmetic damage only don't you think the insurance company would have fixed it? Common sense here man.
Old 05-17-2017, 02:39 AM
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CLOSED thanks!
Old 05-17-2017, 03:24 AM
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What was the outcome?
Before other members on this thread continue to this thread into a pointless one as well
Old 05-17-2017, 01:58 PM
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He found the front driveshaft u-joint!
Old 05-17-2017, 03:22 PM
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May as well start upgrading things
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...riveshaft.html
Old 05-17-2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MB_SD
Your link refers to a current aftermarket carbon fiber driveshaft offer. Although I personally am not in the market for a carbon fiber driveshaft, I do agree that it has benefits in many cases.

For example, GM used an aluminum driveshaft on the 2003 to 2006 Chevrolet SSR retro pickup, and it made music like a musical instrument at certain road speeds. So, GM put a heavy steel "donut" damper at the tranny end of the driveshaft, That started chewing up transmission tailshaft bearings because of its weight! So, GM added another cheap but wrong fix: Rubber bushings, which the heavy weight steel damper chewed up first and then continued on the tailshaft bearings!

The AFTERMARKET, PROPER solution turned out to be a carbon fiber driveshaft. Because it eliminated the root cause, the resonance of the aluminum driveshaft, it eliminated the need for the steel donut and the rubber bushings. Yes, it was costly, but it was the right solution.

On our C63s though, there is no driveshaft "problem" that I am aware of. However, if you have the money to spend, there is a small weight and rotational inertia benefit in a lighter weight driveshaft that is under some circumstances also quieter.

I just don't feel the need for it given my car's non-racing / non-track usage.

Jim G
Old 05-24-2017, 02:28 AM
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thanks guys!! it was just axle
Old 05-24-2017, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jz1219
thanks guys!! it was just axle
Ill be damned. My money was on the front u-joint.
Old 05-24-2017, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 604 C63
Ill be damned. My money was on the front u-joint.
Ok, 604C63, I am finally going to bite on your bait.

EVERY driveshaft has a u-joint in it at both ends, whether it is a conventional dynamic driveshaft running axially along the car's centerline from transmission to suspended pumpkin, or a pair of "drive axles" connecting a rigid pumpkin to 2 independently suspended rear wheels.

All I was trying to do is help the OP see that the lack of drive when put into gear did NOT necessarily mean a "transmission" problem, but could indicate collision damage somewhere else in the drivetrain, which includes some form of u-jointed driveshaft or drive axles, some form of pumpkin, and a number of sensors, ANY of which could cause the symptoms he was seeing.

As it turned out, my thinking was correct. The problem apparently WAS in the axle.

So I have had my C63 only a few weeks and had forgotten that the car has a rear suspension radically different than my last car, the Mustang, had, and so stupidly said "front u-joint" instead of "a u-joint" or "driveshaft joint" (every driveshaft, dynamic or rigid, has to have joints at either end, and they would normally be the "fuse" that gets broken first in a crash that tries to compress the driveshaft).

And you seize on the oversight error to mock my entire posting, which turned out to be correct in its analysis of what was actually causing the problem. Don't you feel just a little embarrassed, because THAT error on your part was far bigger as it turns out than my momentary stupidity?

Heck, I was trying to help the guy, was correct in my analysis, and your comment may have made him ignore what I posted and thus delayed his successful finding of the root problem.

Jim G
Old 05-24-2017, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JimGnitecki

you seize on the oversight error to mock my entire posting, which turned out to be correct in its analysis of what was actually causing the problem. Don't you feel just a little embarrassed, because THAT error on your part was far bigger as it turns out than my momentary stupidity?

Heck, I was trying to help the guy, was correct in my analysis, and your comment may have made him ignore what I posted and thus delayed his successful finding of the root problem.

Jim G
You really saved the day. I'm sure his shop couldn't have done it without you. My shame is deep and burns bright. My tears are salty.

Last edited by 604 C63; 05-24-2017 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Why bother?


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