Winter tire setup - 235/40 & 255/35 on 19"?
This is why the highest performance models in a car maker's lineup, and also the high performance options packages always have larger wheels.
Dragracing is NOT the same as street or track handling. In dragracing, by definition, you are going in only a straight line, and there are no pavement variations. Your primary, almost ONLY objective is TRACTION. That's a very narrow objective compared to what the street and the road race track require. Your comparison is not meaningful in any way.
Jim G
They were also discussing about 255/35/19 in the back, but nobody took the trigger to try that size. Since I want to get studded tires my options are much more limited than with regular winter tires and I'm still not sure which way to go:
1) 235/35/19 all around (rear tires will look a bit silly, but this should work fine)
2) 235/35/19 in the front and 255/35/19 in the back - will the rears fit? The sidewall will be taller, but I'm on stock suspension on OEM 19" wheels.
They were also discussing about 255/35/19 in the back, but nobody took the trigger to try that size. Since I want to get studded tires my options are much more limited than with regular winter tires and I'm still not sure which way to go:
1) 235/35/19 all around (rear tires will look a bit silly, but this should work fine)
2) 235/35/19 in the front and 255/35/19 in the back - will the rears fit? The sidewall will be taller, but I'm on stock suspension on OEM 19" wheels.
I would love for dunlop to make more sizes for the wintersport 3d tire but unfortunately they don't. Looks like Ill have to settle for a 235/35/19 all around. Id like something wider for the rear but the closest option is 255/35/19 and I don't think that is going to work.
There really aren't any other tire options for wide, low profile rear winter tire
This is what dunlop offers

edit...can anyone say for sure that increasing the rear sidewall by 5mm (30 to a 35) but keeping the stock 255 size will cause issues? Any experience here?
Last edited by bentz69; Oct 1, 2017 at 11:02 PM.


In all 9 MB cars I have bolted on winters to the recommendation was to stay stock on wall height on winters. Car rides better on 18s vs 19s.
Second, if you will put them on and take them off consider the negative effect on beads being stretched twice a year using one set of rims plus labour to dismount the tire and remount them and balance them. You can get decent wheels for winter use for about $167 per wheel so consider the cost equation and how long you will keep the car.
BA 225/40 R18 92 V XL
M+Si
8.0 J x 18 H2
Wheel offset: 1.77 in (45 mm)
— — — #
BA 235/40 R18 95 V XL
M+Si15
8.0 J x 18 H2
Wheel offset: 1.77 in (45 mm)
— — — #
FA
RA
235/40 R18 95 V XL
M+Si
255/35 R18 94 V XL
M+Si15
8.0 J x 18 H2
Wheel offset: 1.77 in (45 mm)
9.0 J x 18 H2
Wheel offset: 2.13 in (54 mm)
I would love for dunlop to make more sizes for the wintersport 3d tire but unfortunately they don't. Looks like Ill have to settle for a 235/35/19 all around. Id like something wider for the rear but the closest option is 255/35/19 and I don't think that is going to work.
There really aren't any other tire options for wide, low profile rear winter tire
This is what dunlop offers

edit...can anyone say for sure that increasing the rear sidewall by 5mm (30 to a 35) but keeping the stock 255 size will cause issues? Any experience here?
So, a 235mm wide tire with a "30" sidewall has a sidewall that NOMINALLY (not exactly) is .30 x 235 = 70.5mm high.
A 235 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 235 x .35 = 82.25 mm high.
A 255 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 255 x .35 = 89.25 mm high.
THESE are the numbers you need to look at when looking at the effect of a change in sidewall ratio.
Jim G
The Best of Mercedes & AMG


So, a 235mm wide tire with a "30" sidewall has a sidewall that NOMINALLY (not exactly) is .30 x 235 = 70.5mm high.
A 235 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 235 x .35 = 82.25 mm high.
A 255 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 255 x .35 = 89.25 mm high.
THESE are the numbers you need to look at when looking at the effect of a change in sidewall ratio.
Jim G
So, a 235mm wide tire with a "30" sidewall has a sidewall that NOMINALLY (not exactly) is .30 x 235 = 70.5mm high.
A 235 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 235 x .35 = 82.25 mm high.
A 255 tire that has a "35" sidewall has a sidewall that is nominally 255 x .35 = 89.25 mm high.
THESE are the numbers you need to look at when looking at the effect of a change in sidewall ratio.
Jim G
So the question still stands......does anyone have experience increasing the sidewall on the 19" rear tire from a 30 to 35 series while retaining the oem sized 255?
Tire calculator shows the following....16.7% sidewall increase which throws off the speedo a tad. Is it enough to cause issues with the abs and esc? All I can find on this site is people saying it may cause issues with the abs and esc but nothing definitive.

I certainly don't know all the math with the tire stuff but Ill just put this out there to see if it makes sense. I'm currently using a 275/30/19 rear tire with no rubbing issues or electronic issues. When I compare the oem size of 255/30/19 to 275/30/19, it shows a 6.7% increase in sidewall and the speedo is off a little bit as well. This combo doesn't present problems for the abs etc..

I believe I read the reason why there may be problems with the electronics is because the speed sensors will see different speeds between the front and rears and potentially cause problems. There is already a variation when switching to a 275/30/19 from the stock 255/30/19 but no problems appear. Perhaps that variation falls within acceptation limits. So I sit here and wonder what the limit is?
Guess I may have to just try it and see what happens.
So the question still stands......does anyone have experience increasing the sidewall on the 19" rear tire from a 30 to 35 series while retaining the oem sized 255?
Tire calculator shows the following....16.7% sidewall increase which throws off the speedo a tad. Is it enough to cause issues with the abs and esc? All I can find on this site is people saying it may cause issues with the abs and esc but nothing definitive.
. . .
I believe I read the reason why there may be problems with the electronics is because the speed sensors will see different speeds between the front and rears and potentially cause problems. There is already a variation when switching to a 275/30/19 from the stock 255/30/19 but no problems appear. Perhaps that variation falls within acceptation limits. So I sit here and wonder what the limit is?
In theory, a 255/35-19tire has sidewalls that are 0.35 x 255mm = 89.25mm high = 3.51 inches high. So, the overall height of the wheel/tire assembly is 26.02".
So the difference in overall height (i.e. overall diameter) between the 2 assembles is 1 inch.
That 1 inch is 1/25 = 4%.
Because circumference is = to pi x diameter, that same 4% difference applies to the circumference.
And 4% difference is what the ABS and ESC systems will see.
Looking now at your example of a different tire / wheel assembly that apparently works, the 275/30-19:
It's sidewall height is 0.30 x 275mm = 82.5mm = 3.25 inches. So, the overall height (and diameter) of the wheel/tire assembly is 3.25 + 19 + 3.25 = 25.5", or about 2% over the stock overall height (and diameter).
So, your proposed target assembly exactly doubles the change that the ABS and ESC systems see.
Is there an MB techie on the forum who knows what percent difference the ABS and/or ESC systems will tolerate between front and rear wheel speed?
Finally, note that ACTUAL tire dimensions do not precisely, or sometimes even closely at all, match the theory. For example, on a Harley forum I hang out at, users have discovered that the 240mm width Dunlop tire is not much smaller in width than a 250mm Metzler tire. If you check the Tire Rack spec sheets, you will be amazed at the variations in width and overall diameter of tires that are nominally "the same".
So, yeah, you may have to actually measure some MOUNTED tires . . .
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Oct 2, 2017 at 12:30 PM.


So the question still stands......does anyone have experience increasing the sidewall on the 19" rear tire from a 30 to 35 series while retaining the oem sized 255?
Tire calculator shows the following....16.7% sidewall increase which throws off the speedo a tad. Is it enough to cause issues with the abs and esc? All I can find on this site is people saying it may cause issues with the abs and esc but nothing definitive.

I certainly don't know all the math with the tire stuff but Ill just put this out there to see if it makes sense. I'm currently using a 275/30/19 rear tire with no rubbing issues or electronic issues. When I compare the oem size of 255/30/19 to 275/30/19, it shows a 6.7% increase in sidewall and the speedo is off a little bit as well. This combo doesn't present problems for the abs etc..

I believe I read the reason why there may be problems with the electronics is because the speed sensors will see different speeds between the front and rears and potentially cause problems. There is already a variation when switching to a 275/30/19 from the stock 255/30/19 but no problems appear. Perhaps that variation falls within acceptation limits. So I sit here and wonder what the limit is?
Guess I may have to just try it and see what happens.
The system will see the change in wheel speed as the rears will be running slower at the larger diameter of the 35s vs. the 30s. Remember circumference is Pi x D so your rears will be running slower at the higher wall height as a percentage of the same tread width.
Not sure why you want to do this in the first place other than on a $90000 car you are cheaping out over buying $600 of serviceable decent looking 18s (or 19s if you insist) for your winter tires. I must be missing something.
You know, MB charges thousands for all those manuals that come with the car in which they share their engineering expertise and it seems to me when it comes to winter tires maybe they know something that we don't about what works best>

Jim G
The system will see the change in wheel speed as the rears will be running slower at the larger diameter of the 35s vs. the 30s. Remember circumference is Pi x D so your rears will be running slower at the higher wall height as a percentage of the same tread width.
I'm just looking for facts





When I bought my car it came with a MB winter tire set up with 235/40/18 front and 255/35/18 rear. I know these are not 19s but they are offered staggered from the factory.
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When I bought my car it came with a MB winter tire set up with 235/40/18 front and 255/35/18 rear. I know these are not 19s but they are offered staggered from the factory.
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It DOES however prove that a non-stock tire diameter is ok provided that BOTH the front and rear have the SAME non-stock diameter, or at least are within some yet-unknown-to-us "tolerance" range.
Jim G


My Replika R170s are just fine in 18 BA and cost about $165 CDN.
My Replika R170s are just fine in 18 BA and cost about $165 CDN.
Jim G


Jim G
And so what if they are 8.5s. They work. Being a square set up i.e. Both Axles 18 x 8.0J per the manual 8.5 is fine. With 18 being the only recommended diameter including the staggered for winters using 8.0 front and 9.0 rear, using a square set up allows front to rear rotation each season. A 235 fits an 8.5 just fine with no issues or risks from my experience and any experienced tire guy including our friends in service at MBN will tell you the same thing.
So what's your point?
My point is for very few dollars relative to the cost you avoid damaging the beads, gain rotation capability and make it easier and faster to get them changed if you don't do it yourself and the wheels will pay for themselves in terms of labour dismounting and remounting tires to the wheels and balancing them twice a year. I have bought after market wheels for all my cars save the R170 and the short term B and sold them as extras and never lost money on them.
Last edited by Alex.currie44; Oct 3, 2017 at 07:18 AM.


https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ed-advice.html
And so what if they are 8.5s. They work. Being a square set up i.e. Both Axles 18 x 8.0J per the manual 8.5 is fine. With 18 being the only recommended diameter including the staggered for winters using 8.0 front and 9.0 rear, using a square set up allows front to rear rotation each season. A 235 fits an 8.5 just fine with no issues or risks from my experience and any experienced tire guy including our friends in service at MBN will tell you the same thing.
So what's your point?
My point is for very few dollars relative to the cost you avoid damaging the beads, gain rotation capability and make it easier and faster to get them changed if you don't do it yourself and the wheels will pay for themselves in terms of labour dismounting and remounting tires to the wheels and balancing them twice a year. I have bought after market wheels for all my cars save the R170 and the short term B and sold them as extras and never lost money on them.
It's still a smart decision to buy the wheels and avoid the recurring changeover charges and extra bead stress, etc, but to throw out a "$500" number as the cost is misleading.
Jim G
It's still a smart decision to buy the wheels and avoid the recurring changeover charges and extra bead stress, etc, but to throw out a "$500" number as the cost is misleading.
Jim G

Started at $600, now 500, soon to be only $400!





