Hey fellas I'm looking at purchasing a c63. Budget is around 20 ish, maybe more for the right car. I came across this local one and wanted to get your thoughts. Appears to be a Non-p30, but only 2 owners is a good sign. No idea on maintenance, which scares me but if i can get a killer deal on it, maybe its worth it. Thoughts? Not crazy about white usually as i prefer black cars but it looks good on the w204.

https://cargur.us/gYwvG

 

Looks like a decent buy to me. Driver seat bolster leather surface is completely wore off but shouldn't cost much to replace that area.

It's crazy how much car you get for the dollar on the pre-facelifts.

 

I wouldn't buy a c63 if I only had 20k

 

93,460 Miles......and you'll probably have to spend more unless you do the maintenance yourself.
Probably due for new Motor/Trans mount, Water pump, radiator and thermostat. Cheaper maintenance, such as differential, power steering flush etc.
Also check condition of all the ball joints. Mines went bad at around 50k miles and changed motor mounts around the same time.

 

I think a C63 with almost 100k miles on it, and no service contract,is a very big risk. These cars don't have repairs measured in 3 digits.They have 4 or even 5 digit repairs. Read some of the repair threads on this forum.

Jim G

 

Good info guys, appreciate the feedback. I can probably do the easier diy stuff myself and i do have a good local Indy shop that is pretty reasonable.

I would probably look into an aftermarket warranty as well.

I'd love to find an enthusiast car thats been maintained for a bit more money (fyi I'm paying cash, no financing) but they seem to be few and far between and definitely not local to me. There's a great car in Texas with all maintenance done including headbolts but I'm not crazy about the color...and id have to buy it sight unseen and ship it to NC.

 

Of course it goes without saying that i will have a ppi done as well.

 

I say go for it. Mine was 103K at 20K as well. It had a small leak around the valve covers at the dealership so I had the replace the gaskets as part of the deal. I got them to inspect the headbolts when they did the repair so I knew I needed to do them soon - which I did.
You could maybe find one for cheaper or maybe get one slightly newer for more. But if it's what you really want, get it.

 

Yeah do a good look over. If the car runs great and you're a DIYer, replacement parts are readily available albeit with the "AMG tax" added to it.

 

I'm at 211k mi and still my daily driver......

 

I've got a better idea. Buy my 2011 w/ only 51,000 miles.

 

JP: Do both the OP and some others of us here, including me, and tell us what repairs and associated rough costs you have experienced in that 211k miles. I for one feel reasonably comfortable with my 2012 / currently 31k mile car as my long-term daily driver as long as I have the 4 year aftermarket warranty in place,but for after that, I'd really like to hear what the longer-term costs can be on a car this complex(e.g. those fancy headlights that do their choreographed dance each startup, cam drive components, engine mounts, dual fuel pumps).

Alex's recent AC repair that would have cost him over $1100 if he had no warranty caught my attention,asdo the much costlier cam drive repairs recounted on the forum.

Jim G

 

Jim,
i hate to even say this out loud for fear of jinxing the HELL out of myself so ill whisper it.


other than the headbolts i have had zero issues, and if you guys remember i changed mine myself for less than $600 total.....i dont even have any squeaks or rattles, which is AMAZING considering that mine is a P30 car with suspension like a brick

 

Impressive, JP. And reassuring. Makes me think that my earlier thought is correct: many (most?) of the issues encountered on these cars might be the result of owners driving them like go-carts versus luxury sport coupes and sedans. I say that because while it is true that our C63s, and many other MB models, have "high horsepower" and good handling, MB probably does not seriously consider them "sports cars" (they DO make other models that ARE clearly "sports cars"), but rather simply high quality, somewhat luxurious, and prestigious cars that simply do everyday driving "effortlessly" and satisfyingly. There is no question that if you run such a car like you would run a true sports car, you WILL wear things out faster.

Note for example that if you leave the transmission in either Comfort or S (not S+ orM), and drive it like a businessman would drive, you'll seriously only see rpm above 1500 when you accelerate up a highway ramp or pass on a 2-lane road, except for the times you consciously put the car in "M" and have fun. On the other hand, if you shift manually every time, and shift up at 3000 or 3500 rpm,and use engine braking on every decel, the engine, its cam system, the transmission, those fancy isolation engine mounts, the tires, the effective but costly Brembo brakes, and even the dual fuel pumps, will all wear faster than what the designers of a "quality somewhat sporty businessman's car" envisioned.

And let's face it, throwing a 4000 lb 4-seater coupe or sedan around like a 2500 to 3200 lb 2-person true sports car is really kidding yourself. If you want to go quick, fast, and twisty in the curves, get a car that is designed to be a REAL lightweight sports car like a Corvette, a Lotus, an Alfa 4C, or a Lamborghini, experience the joy of a TRUE sports car, and be willing to pay the price of wearing costly components that at least deliver a true sports car experience. Or, buy the cheaper "imitations" like a Mustang (short of the GT350 version) or Camaro (short of the most costly track-ready version) and pay sensible everyday prices for parts and repairs because both OEM and aftermarket volumes are so large that prices have to be competitive.

Real sports cars don't have rear seats, dancing headlights, rain sensing wiper systems, lane departure systems, computerized snooze detectors, corner obstacle detectors, built-in roof rack mounts, and multimedia systems fancier than those in your home. For a true sports car, those kinds of things are just unnecessary distractions, complexity, maintenance, and excess weight, which is why cars that have them weigh 4000 lb or more.

If my C63 transports me and my family (and my canoe!) reliably, safely, with a degree of fun, and without any huge financial gutshots for many years, I'll consider the initial used-car-price amortized over those years to be a reasonable cost for the comfort, safety, modest degree of luxury, and moderate degree of fun that it will have hopefully provided. But I certainly don't expect it to thrill me every ride to the extent my motorcycle does. The motorcycle is truly a 2-wheeled version of a sports car with the right power to weight ratio, the right sound, and hair-trigger responsiveness in both acceleration and handling, and none of the distractions or ballast weights of a multi-passenger family vehicle.

Jim G

 

I am amazed nobody mentioned head bolts.

 

I think everyone is thinking that if it has gotten to 93k miles, it's probably got good head bolts,so if the OP just DRIVES it instead of RACING it on the street, it's probably ok!

Jim G

 

Yup that's the general consensus I've noticed in my research on the forum. If the car has made it this far then either the head bolts aren't an issue or they've been taken care of. Obviously it's still something to consider and be aware of.

Also I'll be honest, although this is going to be my daily driver make no mistake I'm going to mod it and hot rod around every once in awhile. That's why we buy these cars right? Of course 90% of driving will be just commuting in comfort mode.

 

Dont buy a car from texas or fl, it probably had flood damage, clean title or not.

 

The Texas car I'm looking at is in Austin and I know/trust the seller. But yea, in general, good advice to avoid cars from those areas for a while.

 

94jedi - in case you didn't see my response to your PM...yes, my car is still available.

 

ditto here... 80k miles and zero issues, interior looks new and still... knock knock... absolutely ding and scratchless

 

Jim, your quote of the cost of the AC evaporator is way off. I stated it cost $2000 CDN before deductible, $1800 after which at today's rate of exchange is $1429 US not $1100.

 

Touche! Of course the point i was (conservatively) making is that a $20,000 car that has lots of miles on it is not really "just" a $20,000 car after probable repairs are factored in,

Jim G

 

If you want a feeling based sports car, you buy a Porsche or Miata.

OP, the cost of regular maintenance on a C63 can be a shock. At least it was for me coming from an STI.

Having said that, while I'm trying to sell the my car, I don't know if I actually will because every time I drive the damn thing, it puts a smile on my face. Not a lot of cars can do that.

 

I’m sure you can find a better deal well with the mileage issue I got mine for 25k with 60k miles,tbh I would wait until another one shows up just be patient.