Help!! Cold Start Car Shaking/Vibrating when slowing down, braking , complete stop.
11-21-2017, 02:30 PM
#1
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2009 C63 P30
Help!! Cold Start Car Shaking/Vibrating when slowing down, braking , complete stop.
Hello AMG forum!
I recently discovered a problem and I decided to turn to the forum gods before going into panic mode.
So just a day ago my check engine light turned on (yes I have just purchased an obd2 and will figure it out once i get it so I don't panic just yet)
I started up the car and on a cold night I immediately noticed the car was shaking or vibrating when I was slowing down / braking to a stop.
Only when the car is stopped or full braked it was much more noticable it was shaking and rumbling.
I read that it could be something to do with the brakes being dirty, dust or debris on my rotors (highly possible construction site was right next to me)
Or it could be something with the rotors (warped or damaged)
THE STRANGE PART OF THE STORY IS
After driving around a couple of blocks to look for parking ALL of the shaking / vibrating stopped as if it never occurred before. It completely stopped and didnt occur again at all.
I wonder what could be the issue or if it had to do with the brakes or with the check engine light at all.
Also to note:
-I think the dealer I purchased the car from overfilled the engine oil, I was careful to drive it and not go past 2.5k rpm to bring it home and will be draining a quart or 2 today to get rid of the "check engine oil when refill message"
-Brake pads probably need changing soon, although brake wear warning senors yet it was making a bit of noise. Maybe it needs some changing
I really hope to hear from you guys soon,
I know one of the masters could help me out on this
Thank you again in advance.
I recently discovered a problem and I decided to turn to the forum gods before going into panic mode.
So just a day ago my check engine light turned on (yes I have just purchased an obd2 and will figure it out once i get it so I don't panic just yet)
I started up the car and on a cold night I immediately noticed the car was shaking or vibrating when I was slowing down / braking to a stop.
Only when the car is stopped or full braked it was much more noticable it was shaking and rumbling.
I read that it could be something to do with the brakes being dirty, dust or debris on my rotors (highly possible construction site was right next to me)
Or it could be something with the rotors (warped or damaged)
THE STRANGE PART OF THE STORY IS
After driving around a couple of blocks to look for parking ALL of the shaking / vibrating stopped as if it never occurred before. It completely stopped and didnt occur again at all.
I wonder what could be the issue or if it had to do with the brakes or with the check engine light at all.
Also to note:
-I think the dealer I purchased the car from overfilled the engine oil, I was careful to drive it and not go past 2.5k rpm to bring it home and will be draining a quart or 2 today to get rid of the "check engine oil when refill message"
-Brake pads probably need changing soon, although brake wear warning senors yet it was making a bit of noise. Maybe it needs some changing
I really hope to hear from you guys soon,
I know one of the masters could help me out on this
Thank you again in advance.
11-21-2017, 03:02 PM
#2
Member
Sounds like a cylinder misfire. Check your codes first and hopefully that will tell you what cylinder you need to check. Also check to see if your engine oil smells like gas is in it.
11-21-2017, 04:03 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glad to see you're looking into the CEL. Let us know what you find.
It is not uncommon for the brakes to be squealy, even if there's a lot of pad left. And unlike most domestic brands, there's not an attachment on the pads that makes noise when they get thin. If the brake wear sensors are plugged in (probably but not 100% certain on a used car), they're pretty good about alerting you when to change pads. Just to be sure, I'd look to see how much pad is left before I ran off and ordered replacements. You should be able to do that without pulling the wheels off.
If the car was shaking and rumbling even when fully stopped, it's clearly NOT the brakes.
These cars are not always smooth when cold. When first fired up, idle will jump to about 1,100 and will stay there for a bit (maybe 10-30 seconds). Once fluids are moving it drops down to a more normal 700-ish range. Putting the car in gear stops this from happening. I always wait until idle drops before putting it in gear and moving it.
The oil issue seems odd - the alert usually comes on at low oil levels, and I don't know whether high level can trigger it or not. Check your dip stick before doing anything rash.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...k-reading.html
It is not uncommon for the brakes to be squealy, even if there's a lot of pad left. And unlike most domestic brands, there's not an attachment on the pads that makes noise when they get thin. If the brake wear sensors are plugged in (probably but not 100% certain on a used car), they're pretty good about alerting you when to change pads. Just to be sure, I'd look to see how much pad is left before I ran off and ordered replacements. You should be able to do that without pulling the wheels off.
If the car was shaking and rumbling even when fully stopped, it's clearly NOT the brakes.
These cars are not always smooth when cold. When first fired up, idle will jump to about 1,100 and will stay there for a bit (maybe 10-30 seconds). Once fluids are moving it drops down to a more normal 700-ish range. Putting the car in gear stops this from happening. I always wait until idle drops before putting it in gear and moving it.
The oil issue seems odd - the alert usually comes on at low oil levels, and I don't know whether high level can trigger it or not. Check your dip stick before doing anything rash.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...k-reading.html
11-21-2017, 04:30 PM
#4
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2009 C63 P30
Update report!
I checked the dipstick again and it definitely looks like its way above the min-max line.
I took out a full quart of oil and its finally in the health range.
As for the brakes they suddenly stopped squealing and still seems to be good.
I took at a look at them and it looks like they are still pretty thick (still like a full inch on them or whatnot)
I guess I will not be so hasty and wait till sensors tell me to change them before doing anything to them.
As for the "misfiring" its very strange that it hasn't reoccurred again.
When I startup the car it starts at around 1K RPM and within under 10 seconds it drops to a healthy 600-700 RPM and still sounds and feels strong.
It doesn't idle rough at all and doesn't seem strange or different all before the CEL light came on.
Still sounds normal, no weird smells, no smoke of any signs.
I will continue to inspect and monitor the car before the dang OBD2 comes in the mail.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything they would like me to check, all suggestions are welcomed !
Thank you again!
Will keep you updated
I checked the dipstick again and it definitely looks like its way above the min-max line.
I took out a full quart of oil and its finally in the health range.
As for the brakes they suddenly stopped squealing and still seems to be good.
I took at a look at them and it looks like they are still pretty thick (still like a full inch on them or whatnot)
I guess I will not be so hasty and wait till sensors tell me to change them before doing anything to them.
As for the "misfiring" its very strange that it hasn't reoccurred again.
When I startup the car it starts at around 1K RPM and within under 10 seconds it drops to a healthy 600-700 RPM and still sounds and feels strong.
It doesn't idle rough at all and doesn't seem strange or different all before the CEL light came on.
Still sounds normal, no weird smells, no smoke of any signs.
I will continue to inspect and monitor the car before the dang OBD2 comes in the mail.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything they would like me to check, all suggestions are welcomed !
Thank you again!
Will keep you updated
11-22-2017, 11:08 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Update report!
I checked the dipstick again and it definitely looks like its way above the min-max line.
I took out a full quart of oil and its finally in the health range.
As for the brakes they suddenly stopped squealing and still seems to be good.
I took at a look at them and it looks like they are still pretty thick (still like a full inch on them or whatnot)
I guess I will not be so hasty and wait till sensors tell me to change them before doing anything to them.
As for the "misfiring" its very strange that it hasn't reoccurred again.
When I startup the car it starts at around 1K RPM and within under 10 seconds it drops to a healthy 600-700 RPM and still sounds and feels strong.
It doesn't idle rough at all and doesn't seem strange or different all before the CEL light came on.
Still sounds normal, no weird smells, no smoke of any signs.
I will continue to inspect and monitor the car before the dang OBD2 comes in the mail.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything they would like me to check, all suggestions are welcomed !
Thank you again!
Will keep you updated
I checked the dipstick again and it definitely looks like its way above the min-max line.
I took out a full quart of oil and its finally in the health range.
As for the brakes they suddenly stopped squealing and still seems to be good.
I took at a look at them and it looks like they are still pretty thick (still like a full inch on them or whatnot)
I guess I will not be so hasty and wait till sensors tell me to change them before doing anything to them.
As for the "misfiring" its very strange that it hasn't reoccurred again.
When I startup the car it starts at around 1K RPM and within under 10 seconds it drops to a healthy 600-700 RPM and still sounds and feels strong.
It doesn't idle rough at all and doesn't seem strange or different all before the CEL light came on.
Still sounds normal, no weird smells, no smoke of any signs.
I will continue to inspect and monitor the car before the dang OBD2 comes in the mail.
If anyone has any suggestions or anything they would like me to check, all suggestions are welcomed !
Thank you again!
Will keep you updated
I find on this car that if the car is parked and the brake rotors and calipers are wet they can rust quickly and tend to bond up temporarilly.
My SM tells me these pads polish easily in stop and go traffice so I will run down the highway at 100K and drag the brakes for 200-400 yd once a month and so far so good.
