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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by DaSu
Ok, thank you for the tip, do I need to have new gaskets ready for the assembly or can I reuse them?
For sure and it is pretty cheap 18 bucks for OEM here in the US and another 5 or 6 bucks for each of the spark plug hole seals. Not sure if you need to replace bolts they may be single use if I remember correctly.
For sure and it is pretty cheap 18 bucks for OEM here in the US and another 5 or 6 bucks for each of the spark plug hole seals. Not sure if you need to replace bolts they may be single use if I remember correctly.
You could probably get away with reusing bolts as they’re only torqued lightly (don’t have he values but I’m sure less than 20ft.lbs). I would keep spares of those bolts though as they easily strip and the dealer most times run out of them. Cheap insurance for any bolts showing early signs of wear. Recheck the torque of the bolts regularly as I’ve had one or two of them loosen and probably would’ve caused leaks!
Thank you for all the information, but has anyone made this noise go away entirely just by flushing the oil a few times?
Or what did you end up doing to make it go away?
Thank you for all the information, but has anyone made this noise go away entirely just by flushing the oil a few times?
Or what did you end up doing to make it go away?
if the noise is there start saving up for cams, lifters, and possibly adjusters. Changing oil often and using anti friction coating will just prolong the inevitable. Permanent fix is to redo the head.
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by go team
if the noise is there start saving up for cams, lifters, and possibly adjusters. Changing oil often and using anti friction coating will just prolong the inevitable. Permanent fix is to redo the head.
If it ticks like that all the time, the cams and lifters are already getting pretty bad and there is no fix to get rid of the noise other than parts and taking off the valve covers to inspect how bad it is. If you just get it on cold starts/when it sits and it goes away after a few minutes, then a flush and something like ceretec may help alleviate the startup noise for a while.
I do engine flush with serum every 10k or less, since I am high mileage. My engine has never had any ticking, and I run Motul Excess 5w40. 113k miles stock headbolts. I swear by engine flushes, keeping all the internals properly lubricated without any debris is crucial to engine longevity.
Thank you for you input and advice. Really appreciated.
See pictures in my last post:
I tried to locate where most of the sound came from and it was passenger side at the rear cylinder.
Popped the cover and looked.
I think it looks good, and also the lifters of what I can see. Or do you think different?
Next step would be to get a timing tool and lift the cams and replace the lifters or do you have any other ideas?
Sorry for lifting an old thread, but the ticking noise you made go away, was it like this?
I just bought an C63 from 2009 and it has this ticking noise. Wondering what to do to fix it, Oil-related or if I just should get to a AMG-shop and have the tear the engine apart?
// Daniel
SWEDEN
Is that on a cold engine that was sitting overnight or longer? If so, sounds like one or more buckets lost oil pressure which is fairly common.
Is that on a cold engine that was sitting overnight or longer? If so, sounds like one or more buckets lost oil pressure which is fairly common.
How many KM?
The sound comes and goes. It is almost allways there on start up but goes away when the engine is pushed a little and hot. When idling directly after a spirited drive the ticking is gone, but if I drive slowly a while after pushing it, it comes back again.
I have a lot of narrow streets and speedbumps to get to my house so I drive it for 5 minutes almost in idle and usually the ticking is there when I come home.
Thank you for you input and advice. Really appreciated.
See pictures in my last post:
I tried to locate where most of the sound came from and it was passenger side at the rear cylinder.
Popped the cover and looked.
I think it looks good, and also the lifters of what I can see. Or do you think different?
Next step would be to get a timing tool and lift the cams and replace the lifters or do you have any other ideas?
The sound comes and goes. It is almost allways there on start up but goes away when the engine is pushed a little and hot. When idling directly after a spirited drive the ticking is gone, but if I drive slowly a while after pushing it, it comes back again.
I have a lot of narrow streets and speedbumps to get to my house so I drive it for 5 minutes almost in idle and usually the ticking is there when I come home.
The car has around 130K kilometers on it.
This doesn't add up. Was the engine cold in the video you posted? If so, that sound is lifters that lost hydraulic pressure. Once they pressurize, they don't loose pressure while the engine is running and it takes a while for them to depressurize (if it happens). Unless you wore through the top of one but then it would tick constantly no matter what.
Are you sure there's not another sound that's similar? Take a video when you've been driving slowly and the ticking sound comes back. It could be an adjuster making noise after the engine has warmed up (which would come from the front).
I Agree that it is strange. I made an oil flush and it got better. Now the sound goes away sometimes and idling directly after it is gone but as I said, it comes back after running on low RPMs on a hot engine.
If it looses oil pressure, could it be fixed by just changing the lifter?
The video i posted further up is not mine or my car,.
But the sound is exactly the same.
Here is a video on my car after running low RPM with hot engine.
That sounds like the cam adjuster. Are you sure it's not coming from the front?
It is not a rattle when starting up as I have heard many others that have have a problem with the cam adjusters. When I lifted the covers I took a big key and tried to turn the cams as Tasos do, but they were very firm. So I dont think it is the CA:s.
I have listened with a stethoscope with a metal rod in the end to try to find out where the sound comes from and it is definitely loudest at the rear cylinder on the passenger side.
Bur if it high up or down low, I dont know. It is quite noticeable if i listen behind the front left tyre.
I really hope that i dont have to take the top of.
Change lifters and cams is expensive enough...
The cam adjusters can have 2 noises. One sounds similar to yours but coming from the front (way too difficult to diagnose over a youtube vid). Another when the pin slot is extremely worn and you get a nasty metallic chatter on startup (tasos has videos on that).
If it is coming from the rear even after the car is warm you may have a defective lifter/bucket. Did you take more pictures?
Either way, you'll need to pull the cams and inspect.
The first oil analysis was post engine flush the aluminum and iron values were high which kind of suggest another oil change immediately after the engine flush is done so you’re not running all these metals in your engine for an unnecessary longer period of time. The second was with Leichtlauf and Ceratec, Aluminum is 6 and Iron is 8. The third is the new oil Leichtlauf and Ceratec showing Zinc content.
The set of oil change I’m in now I’ll leave for at least 5000 kilometres and collect another sample. I’ll analyze the oil again and if it is still at single digits I will try an interval of 7500 kms. I would prefer to keep the metals below 10 while getting most mileage out of the oil.
09-19-2019, 04:40 PM
