Engine Flush at approximately 50,000 miles (80,000 kilometers)
#1
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Thread Starter
Engine Flush at approximately 50,000 miles (80,000 kilometers)
With the C63 having its 50,000 mile birthday I decided to give it a proper engine flush by going through an oil change with Liqui Moly 5W-40. A bit of background, the engine has only been exposed to Mobil 1 5W-40.
The tools:
Mobil 1 0W-40
Liqui Moly Engine Flush (2 cans)
Liqui Moly Cera Tec (2 cans)
Liqui Moly Liechtlauf (2-5 L jugs)
So I proceeded with a normal 3000 mile oil change and the oil was semi-black at that time. I drained it at the usual oil pan and the front oil cooler. Mobil 1 0W-40 was put in and ran for about 50 miles of daily driving so that the oil can recirculate..
For the Liqui Moly Engine Flush I ran the engine with the fresh Mobil 1 0W-40 to operating temperatures of 90 Celsius and then added approximately 800 mL of the Engine Flush. The engine ran for a little over 10 minutes and then the car was put on FOUR jack stands with the rear placed higher than the front. This facilitated better draining via gravity; leaving the car to empty for almost an hour also helped empty the engine of contaminated oil.
The results!
You can see the fine metal piece I placed right beside the old copper washer to reference its size. You can see the oil has also picked up enough debris and has a bit of a tarry consistency.
Moving forward!
The engine will now be using Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40. The first batch of Liqui Moly used after the engine flush above was mixed with Liqui Moly Cera Tec which has been advertised to assist in decreased engine wear with benefits lasting up to 50,000 kilometers! I also ended up with extra oil and ended up storing these in the two used Cera Tec bottles to mix into future oil changes! I will try to update the post in 500 kilometers or so?
The tools:
Mobil 1 0W-40
Liqui Moly Engine Flush (2 cans)
Liqui Moly Cera Tec (2 cans)
Liqui Moly Liechtlauf (2-5 L jugs)
So I proceeded with a normal 3000 mile oil change and the oil was semi-black at that time. I drained it at the usual oil pan and the front oil cooler. Mobil 1 0W-40 was put in and ran for about 50 miles of daily driving so that the oil can recirculate..
For the Liqui Moly Engine Flush I ran the engine with the fresh Mobil 1 0W-40 to operating temperatures of 90 Celsius and then added approximately 800 mL of the Engine Flush. The engine ran for a little over 10 minutes and then the car was put on FOUR jack stands with the rear placed higher than the front. This facilitated better draining via gravity; leaving the car to empty for almost an hour also helped empty the engine of contaminated oil.
The results!
You can see the fine metal piece I placed right beside the old copper washer to reference its size. You can see the oil has also picked up enough debris and has a bit of a tarry consistency.
Moving forward!
The engine will now be using Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40. The first batch of Liqui Moly used after the engine flush above was mixed with Liqui Moly Cera Tec which has been advertised to assist in decreased engine wear with benefits lasting up to 50,000 kilometers! I also ended up with extra oil and ended up storing these in the two used Cera Tec bottles to mix into future oil changes! I will try to update the post in 500 kilometers or so?
Last edited by go team; 11-28-2017 at 06:55 PM.
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Vpatriota (11-11-2019)
#2
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2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
Liquimoly told me that Ceratec and MoS2 should not be run together. Does their Leichtlauf oil haveMoS2 in it? Thanks for the results of the flush...i actually wanted to do the same but decided against it. Maybe I should...
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Liquimoly told me that Ceratec and MoS2 should not be run together. Does their Leichtlauf oil haveMoS2 in it? Thanks for the results of the flush...i actually wanted to do the same but decided against it. Maybe I should...
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
I only have dealer maintained documentation written in the Owner's Manual to base it off of. It dictates a yearly service with Mobil 1 5W-40.
Last edited by go team; 11-28-2017 at 07:19 PM.
#4
It was not advertised to have it. I know MoS2 is more an after-oil additive. It looks like they should be alright from Renato Fausch, "I added Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 oil, Motor Oil Saver and Cera Tec wear protection." See linkhttps://www.liqui-moly.us/en/i-use-i...to-fausch.html
I only have dealer maintained documentation written in the Owner's Manual to base it off of. It dictates a yearly service with Mobil 1 5W-40.
I only have dealer maintained documentation written in the Owner's Manual to base it off of. It dictates a yearly service with Mobil 1 5W-40.
#5
Member
I did this EXACT same thing about 4 weeks ago. Only different thing I did was drain the oil cooler as well as the sump. My procedure was as follows;
- Warm car to operating temp.
- Drain oil from sump
- Fill with fresh Mobil 1 (only used mobil 1 cause I had spare) & re-warm car to operating temp
- Add 2x Liqui Moly Engine Flush
- Let car idle for 15mins.
- Drain oil from sump & oil cooler
- Fill 8.5lt Liqui Moly 5w 40.
- Add 2x Cera Tec cans.
The next day the ticking was still there so I was disappointed. However, the following day the ticking was a lot quieter. By the end of that week, the ticking was only there for maybe the first 20 seconds of driving. The car then sat for 5 days while I was interstate. When I got back and started her up, ticking was gone & I haven't heard it tick for the last 2 weeks. Not once! Keeping my fingers crossed it stays that way!
- Warm car to operating temp.
- Drain oil from sump
- Fill with fresh Mobil 1 (only used mobil 1 cause I had spare) & re-warm car to operating temp
- Add 2x Liqui Moly Engine Flush
- Let car idle for 15mins.
- Drain oil from sump & oil cooler
- Fill 8.5lt Liqui Moly 5w 40.
- Add 2x Cera Tec cans.
The next day the ticking was still there so I was disappointed. However, the following day the ticking was a lot quieter. By the end of that week, the ticking was only there for maybe the first 20 seconds of driving. The car then sat for 5 days while I was interstate. When I got back and started her up, ticking was gone & I haven't heard it tick for the last 2 weeks. Not once! Keeping my fingers crossed it stays that way!
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mrmatthewpaul (06-20-2024)
#6
I did this EXACT same thing about 4 weeks ago. Only different thing I did was drain the oil cooler as well as the sump. My procedure was as follows;
- Warm car to operating temp.
- Drain oil from sump
- Fill with fresh Mobil 1 (only used mobil 1 cause I had spare) & re-warm car to operating temp
- Add 2x Liqui Moly Engine Flush
- Let car idle for 15mins.
- Drain oil from sump & oil cooler
- Fill 8.5lt Liqui Moly 5w 40.
- Add 2x Cera Tec cans.
The next day the ticking was still there so I was disappointed. However, the following day the ticking was a lot quieter. By the end of that week, the ticking was only there for maybe the first 20 seconds of driving. The car then sat for 5 days while I was interstate. When I got back and started her up, ticking was gone & I haven't heard it tick for the last 2 weeks. Not once! Keeping my fingers crossed it stays that way!
- Warm car to operating temp.
- Drain oil from sump
- Fill with fresh Mobil 1 (only used mobil 1 cause I had spare) & re-warm car to operating temp
- Add 2x Liqui Moly Engine Flush
- Let car idle for 15mins.
- Drain oil from sump & oil cooler
- Fill 8.5lt Liqui Moly 5w 40.
- Add 2x Cera Tec cans.
The next day the ticking was still there so I was disappointed. However, the following day the ticking was a lot quieter. By the end of that week, the ticking was only there for maybe the first 20 seconds of driving. The car then sat for 5 days while I was interstate. When I got back and started her up, ticking was gone & I haven't heard it tick for the last 2 weeks. Not once! Keeping my fingers crossed it stays that way!
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Honro (07-30-2018)
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Liquimoly told me that Ceratec and MoS2 should not be run together. Does their Leichtlauf oil haveMoS2 in it? Thanks for the results of the flush...i actually wanted to do the same but decided against it. Maybe I should...
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
what oil and what change intervals were used on this car?
On my last oil change i used 1.5 bottles of Ceratec and I have no more ticking noises after the car has sat for a long period of time. Well worth the investment.
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#8
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Thread Starter
First oil change after the treatment and no ticking.
#10
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
Excellent news. Same story here. Heard loud ticking until oil was warm one night after the car had sat for 2-3 days. Changed oil to LiquiMoly and 2 bottles of MoS2 the next day and never heard the tick again.
#11
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Thread Starter
Probably the last post for this thread. But some more info for whatever it’s worth. I just started the car after it sat for a bit over a month! And..... no ticking. I’m still on liquimoly Leichtlauf and plan to do another ceratec treatment in 50,000 kilometers.
#12
Member
Ill throw up my update as well. Its almost been 2 months since I did my flush and change to liqui molly + Cera Tec. Can confirm 100% I havent heard a single lifter tick for 7 weeks. Even after sitting for a week no tick at all.
#13
#15
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Thread Starter
Don’t think there is data per se but your oil at 3000 versus 5000 miles will carry more grit. I believe most of the owners here just change the oil more frequently because the recommended intervals are quite long that it seems the engines have a higher risk for wear
Last edited by go team; 08-11-2018 at 10:45 PM.
#16
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2013 C63 AMG P31 Coupe
I haven't tried the Ceratec at all, but my P31 would tick on startup after sitting for awhile, (a week or more). After watching some of Tasos' videos, I decided to follow his recommendation and run 10W-60 oil in my car. I went with the Liqui Moly 2024 Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60 oil. Cost me a pretty penny ($160CAD for 2 5L jugs) but my car has not made a ticking noise since, even when sitting for 3 weeks in my garage while I was away at work. I am also noticing cooler oil temps under normal and spirited driving. I was seeing around 112C at normal driving and as high as 125C under spirited driving on the previous oil, now I see around 105C normal and have not seen higher than 118C even with some very hard, long pulls during a 1700km road rally I did at the end of June. Even last week when it was 37C (98.6F) in my city the temps didn't exceed what was described above. Being a thicker weight of oil I have noticed average fuel economy has decreased about 5% over 7000km of driving, but that's the only real downside I can see to this oil. Just thought I would add this for anyone who may want to consider different spec of oil rather than additives.
#17
This maybe be a stupid question, but better safe then sorry.
Reading this thread I ordered the Cartec and when I got it today it says on the box not to be used with wet clutches.
Having the facelife with the MCT trans which has a wet clutches am I safe using it?
I assume the engine oil is not touching the transmission in any way shape or form or am I wrong here?
Also ordered two bottles I just had an oil change and they put in 9qts (8.5 liters) of oil, one bottle says it will treat up to 5liters am I safe to use the full two or should I use a little less?
Reading this thread I ordered the Cartec and when I got it today it says on the box not to be used with wet clutches.
Having the facelife with the MCT trans which has a wet clutches am I safe using it?
I assume the engine oil is not touching the transmission in any way shape or form or am I wrong here?
Also ordered two bottles I just had an oil change and they put in 9qts (8.5 liters) of oil, one bottle says it will treat up to 5liters am I safe to use the full two or should I use a little less?
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
This maybe be a stupid question, but better safe then sorry.
Reading this thread I ordered the Cartec and when I got it today it says on the box not to be used with wet clutches.
Having the facelife with the MCT trans which has a wet clutches am I safe using it?
I assume the engine oil is not touching the transmission in any way shape or form or am I wrong here?
Also ordered two bottles I just had an oil change and they put in 9qts (8.5 liters) of oil, one bottle says it will treat up to 5liters am I safe to use the full two or should I use a little less?
Reading this thread I ordered the Cartec and when I got it today it says on the box not to be used with wet clutches.
Having the facelife with the MCT trans which has a wet clutches am I safe using it?
I assume the engine oil is not touching the transmission in any way shape or form or am I wrong here?
Also ordered two bottles I just had an oil change and they put in 9qts (8.5 liters) of oil, one bottle says it will treat up to 5liters am I safe to use the full two or should I use a little less?
#19
Super Member
I haven't tried the Ceratec at all, but my P31 would tick on startup after sitting for awhile, (a week or more). After watching some of Tasos' videos, I decided to follow his recommendation and run 10W-60 oil in my car. I went with the Liqui Moly 2024 Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60 oil. Cost me a pretty penny ($160CAD for 2 5L jugs) but my car has not made a ticking noise since, even when sitting for 3 weeks in my garage while I was away at work. I am also noticing cooler oil temps under normal and spirited driving. I was seeing around 112C at normal driving and as high as 125C under spirited driving on the previous oil, now I see around 105C normal and have not seen higher than 118C even with some very hard, long pulls during a 1700km road rally I did at the end of June. Even last week when it was 37C (98.6F) in my city the temps didn't exceed what was described above. Being a thicker weight of oil I have noticed average fuel economy has decreased about 5% over 7000km of driving, but that's the only real downside I can see to this oil. Just thought I would add this for anyone who may want to consider different spec of oil rather than additives.
Your oil is running cooler and your fuel economy is worse. I would say your engine is experiencing a higher load therefore higher wear.
You should consider that Tasos is located in the Arabic Emirates if I'm not mistaking and therefore works on cars which are driven in different temperature ranges and that he would recommend a heavier oil would make sense. The Arabic Emirates temp range is from 60F up to 110F. I don't thing that is even close to what Canada experiences.
I would rethink running 10w60 oil in a M156 engine.
#20
Member
Please give us an update after using 10w60 after 30k miles (50000 Km). just curious how the engine is doing,
Your oil is running cooler and your fuel economy is worse. I would say your engine is experiencing a higher load therefore higher wear.
You should consider that Tasos is located in the Arabic Emirates if I'm not mistaking and therefore works on cars which are driven in different temperature ranges and that he would recommend a heavier oil would make sense. The Arabic Emirates temp range is from 60F up to 110F. I don't thing that is even close to what Canada experiences.
I would rethink running 10w60 oil in a M156 engine.
Your oil is running cooler and your fuel economy is worse. I would say your engine is experiencing a higher load therefore higher wear.
You should consider that Tasos is located in the Arabic Emirates if I'm not mistaking and therefore works on cars which are driven in different temperature ranges and that he would recommend a heavier oil would make sense. The Arabic Emirates temp range is from 60F up to 110F. I don't thing that is even close to what Canada experiences.
I would rethink running 10w60 oil in a M156 engine.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Reviving my old thread, slow progress but car is at 85000 kilometers and sat over the winter. Heard start up tick for a couple seconds on first season start up and never again since then. I didn’t do any winter engine warm up. Also not feeling anything when driving - all feels normal; pulls strong in C, S, S+, and M.
Interesting enough I took my time to intently listen real close for any ticking noise and what I heard was slight ticking listening under the passenger wheel well. This noise is completely absent on the driver side. I believe it IS lifter issues and will just need to keep track of oil changes until it all gets replaced.
Im keeping oil samples for when I do the oil changes and get all the samples analyzed at some point. I’ll post it up here once that research is done. That’ll take some time likely hopefully the oil changes will help temporarily.
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Cwagon (05-20-2019)
#22
Hi Guys, Im new here.
Sorry for lifting an old thread, but the ticking noise you made go away, was it like this?
I just bought an C63 from 2009 and it has this ticking noise. Wondering what to do to fix it, Oil-related or if I just should get to a AMG-shop and have the tear the engine apart?
// Daniel
SWEDEN
Sorry for lifting an old thread, but the ticking noise you made go away, was it like this?
I just bought an C63 from 2009 and it has this ticking noise. Wondering what to do to fix it, Oil-related or if I just should get to a AMG-shop and have the tear the engine apart?
// Daniel
SWEDEN
#23
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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
That sounds like new cams and lifters to me, pretty bad unless the camera amplifies it - does it go away or is it like that all the time?