Learning disabilities has in fact been proven several times as more of a delay and can in fact be fixed! But panty wearing... that one is for life! At least it’s a socially accepted norm nowadays! I don’t see a video just one fool arguing with another on the net! LOL. Calcite white is such a shyte color.

I
8/27/18

I started working on my 2007 E63 in December of 2017, but just tried starting her up after so much time and found that after 40 secs of starting time it sounded so BAD that I just instinctively couldn't let it keep going. Good thing, I think, since I then tried starting her up the next morning only to realize it wouldn't turn over at all! I verified this by trying to manually crank, but it wouldn't budge. Turning counterclockwise however, I was able to smoothly turn it back some. I know for certain that I set the timing up well as I DID check the positioning of the Crank Shaft after each tightening of the Cam Adjusters with them both being tightened only after both Cam Adjusters were aligned via the proper tools. Being that I only had one set/side of Cam Lockdown tools, I made sure that after locking both Cams down before tightening the Cam Adjusters the CrankShaft was set to 40 degrees before tightening up the Cam Phasers. Only after checking the Camshafts again did I proceed in dismounting the Cam Timing lock tools from the one side and subsequently mounting them on the other side.

BUT This is where I might have gone wrong after reading this post!! The WIS instructions I have, if memory serves, instructed me to tighten the Cam Adjuster Phaser Bolts to 45Nm + 90 degrees! I don't know about what you all might think about that, but I can't imagine + 90 Degrees being equal to 115Nm!!!! I've been wracking my brain wondering after doing my work why after 40 seconds it would all the sudden stop cranking!! I verified this by trying to manually turn the crankshaft but it wouldn't budge. I did manage to smoothly turn it counterclockwise a few degrees but same deal going back the other way when I reached that point. Initially I thought maybe the guys that I had rebuild my HEAdS may have inadvertently swapped the Camshafts from one Head to another such that when I Unwrapped them each from the plastic they were wrapped up with the opposing sides Camshafts and kept with thier respective opposing Heads! As such, It may have been installed incorrectly, to say the least!!! Of course I had marked each with Oil based Markers, Green for Driver Intake and Orange for Driver Exhaust, and same for the other side, so I'm more then fairly sure that each were on there respective sides. Nonetheless, My main concern specifically is that the Camshafts from the driver side may have ended up to the passenger side and visa versa. Not something I really think may have happened but amidst the the whole rebuilding process, I must concede that it's a possibility! If so, if passenger side was on Driver side etc., then I imagine the Valves would have been firing *** backwards and caused the 6 of 8 misfires!!! However, if the Cam Adjusters became out of sync as a result of them being tightened so lightly, that would be almost more relieving as the valves themselves may not be so out of sync hitting the Piston Heads because I got a freeze up in the Starting Process after having it run for that initial 40 seconds!!!!

Any thoughts???

Uh. Maybe take it all apart and see what the problem is?

Also double-check the timing to cross something easy off the list of possible issues.

I have two things that jump out at me from this thread, albeit most all suggestions were relevant, however these two things seem to have been slightly mentioned but not really confirmed which, as I reflect on what may have caused my issue, I suspect may be the reason for my currrent dilemma.

1. "Tightening the Cam Bolt to 115Nm"!?!? I understand Weisitech Instructions call for tightening their "re-usable" Cam Bolts up to that spec BUT the WIS for my E63 states that it should be 45Nm + 90 degree as mentioned by the founder of this post. I can surmise that the +90 might equate to possibly 115 Nm in the end, but cannot confirm. My concern is whether I tightened the Cam Bolt tight enough as I too am fairly positive I set up the Timing "correctly" to TDC (ie-40 degrees) as I did NOT overlook the positioning of the Crankshaft while dialing in the timing and then tightening up each CamBolt. Since I only had it running for 30-40 secs MAx before shutting her down and then next day tried turning her over only to find a "No Start" situation. I verified that the Crank was indeed "locked" but would turn counterclockwise, so I suspect a Valve being way out of timing, which would happen if say the Cam Bolt slipped as a result of not being tightened down enough (i.e.-115Nm)???

2. "Turning Camshaft until it locks". Either the poster is referring to using the straight steel plate in the Cam Adjuster tool while placing it at the back of each Camshaft whilst turning each manually with a wrench while each are disconnected/loosened from the Cam Adjuster although the poster may be referring to Tasos touching on this while he's got the Cam Adjuster opened up. He doesn't show how one is supposed to confirm it is "locked" in position before mating it up with camshaft without taking it apart first. Moreover, it's unclear how one is to lock it in place before setting up Cam Timing. I took all my Cam Adjusters apart, one by one (except when I was comparing my passenger Intake and Exhaust with the two new ones I had purchased and determined someone had literally put the inner sprocket which holds the oil channel determining the pressure exerted in the hole where "locking barrel" is placed upside down!!) and I could see how one could manually make sure these were to lock is place by rotating that sprocket until the barrel lines up with the depression thus locking the Adjuster in place. Then one would bolt on the top. However once done, I admit I didn't check to confirm that each were locked before tightening down the Cam Bolts.?!?! The spring in there pushes down on the "barrel" which precisely fits in a depression with a channel emanating from it that oil is pushed through. If pushed from the "bottom-i.e.- from the front via the soliniods, it pushes up on the barrel and thus releases the barrel from locking the inner sprocket. Even if they were "unlocked" I can't attribute that to solely being the reason why there is a definite lock (i.e.-erroneously open-extended valve) in the Crank going clockwise, but it may be so?? I imagine if it were indeed unlocked while being locked down with the Cam Bolt, inevitably that would erroneously effect Cam Timing, but not such much as to cause a valve which may be open early-late to hit the piston right?

In any case, I most likely will defer to the Cam Bolt perhaps not being tightened hard enough thus causing the Cam to lose position to the Cam Adjuster which, in effect, could very much cause a valve to erroneously open. In so doing, I am guessing that since I cannot turn the Crank clockwise(i.e.-piston hitting an open valve) I'll have to try to turn counterclockwise (after disco'ing the Serp-belt) in order to align the Cams in position to install the Cam lock tools in order to remove the Cam Bolt. However, I can foresee that posing a problem if I can't rotate backwards far enough?? As such, I plan on having to deliberately unbolt the Cam Cap bolts, if that's the case, in order to remove and reposition each Camshaft and then use the Cam Locking tools to unbolt the Cam Bolts. I'll do a probe of each spark plug hole to see where it's hanging up as well as to inspect each piston top although it may be hard to detect any piston slap because I thoroughly cleaned the piston tops of any and all Carbon buildup prior to installing the Rebuilt Heads.

But alas, until I get back and use a scope down each spark hole I won't find where the problem is. Of course then it would be off with the Valve Covers to confirm the wrong timing. I'm just hoping I stopped in time so as to have avoided potential disaster with my "new" valve train but that remains a very unassured hope!!

10/10/18

I tried to start my 07' E63 after rebuilding the Heads, New Headbolts, Refurbished Intake, Racing Brake Rotors/pads etc., and let it run for 30-40 seconds max before I shut her off as it sounded aweful. The STAR Diagnostics indicated there was a misfire in almost all the chambers!!! Being that it sounded like it was starving for fuel coupled with the fact that had been nearly 8 months since I started work on her on jack stands, I figured the fuel rail may not have been primed properly but after reading many of these posts I am to understand that "ignition on" alone should prime the rail. STAR also indicated power to pumps as well as the positioning of the Cams. However, when I tried the next day to start her up it wouldn't turn over at all!!

As you can imagine, my mind was flooded with thoughts of a possible Valve keeping the engine from turning over which would mean the timing was radically off somehow or that possibly the timing chain was at fault or a rod had been tweaked!!! I then tried to manually turn the Crank CW, but it was indeed "stuck". Turning it CCW, however, I was able to go back a few notches but didn't push it. So I ended up pulling the Valve Covers and spark plugs. In retrospect,, I should have pulled the spark plugs first because after the release of the vacuum (i.e.-hydrolock) caused by two flooded Chambers 1&2 from firewall on driver side near the fuel inlet to the rail, I was able to manually turn the Crank but when doing so, it spat out gas from each hole. If I kept the Valve Covers on, it would have been much cleaner. Instead, as soon as I saw it spit up the first sign of gas which caught me offguard, I quickly used a shop towel to absorb what came out and the used my trusty suction tool to suck out the rest and then stuffing a shop towel in hole for good measure. I admit I was relieved to discover this "hydrolock" occurred rather than the other nightmare scenarios I had imagined. It also really hit home what "hydrolock" does, that is, forms a vacuum whereby the fluid filled chamber inhibits any movement of the Piston! I just lucky I turned it off so quickly, at least I think I am since I haven't yet started her up.

I also noticed that two of my Cam Adjusters were themselves loose. I did take them apart since they had been taken apart previously and put back together again ***-backwardly, so it was absolutely necessary however the loosening of the screws on the back plates of the Cam Adjuster has me thinking maybe the 45Nm + 90* may not be tight enough considering the oily surface of the Cam Shaft threads??? Has anyone here ever used locktight as my use of brakleen on both the threads and inner threads of the camshaft didn't seem to hold with the prescribed WIS tightening reference. And yes, the timing was indeed off after 30-40 seconds!! Hmmm?

I might mention too earlier in this thread there was the question of being able to manually turn the Crank backwards (i.e.-CCW-Counterclockwise). My understanding from Tasos' videos is that when the Cams are Locked in place with the Cam Tool, if turning the Crank in order to get the tool in place caused you to go past 40*, then in order to properly load up the chain tensioner one would have to manually turn back (CCW) the Crank some 30-40* then (CW) to 40*. On the other hand, one could loosen all the Cam Adjuster Cam Bolts and remove the tools to allow the Cams to seat freely, you could then rotate CW the Crank 360*, which is advisable anyway to ensure there is no binding occurring with the Cam Adjuster Teeth, to 40*, thereby ensuring proper load on the chain tensioner then lock in the Cam shafts using a crescent wrench or 27mm, set the timing, tighten the Cam Bolts and you should be golden, assuming the 45Nm + 90* is in fact tight enough????

In reference to the helpful posts above, I did end up getting a wireless scope paired with my iPad and confirmed there were no broken valves, just glistening clean chambers and Pistons as I spent hours cleaning all that up!