Talked myself into DIY new HBs. With 96K miles, am guessing breaking a HB upon removal is a real possibility - been researching 'TTY bolts' for tips to lessen the chances and came upon a few who rap the head of the bolts with a mallet(via some tap and usually 2-3 times as they're being loosened) to help prevent breakage but all appear on a bolt with a traditional 'beefier' head(like the new replacements). I'm of the mind that if tapping the old bolt causes it to break, it'd likely break during removal anyway and plan on using this method but I'm a noob so...WTH do I know? Anyone try/recommend this?
To answer a couple of questions I had (and recall asked elsewhere) - DO NOT use any thread locker/sealant or lubricant with TTY bolts. Bolt holes should be clean/dry - ARP makes a 'thread cleaner chaser'($50-$60) that I'm guessing too short/difficult to use thru the head but might be worth a look? My plan, for now, is to use brake cleaner, wire brush and some modified vacuum attachment chased with compressed air after all debris removed - please correct me if I'm wrong
I'm sure a minor point, but am currently in freezing conditions - garage/engine probably 30-40 degrees prior to heating the garage up - have to assume the colder the block, the better?
To answer a couple of questions I had (and recall asked elsewhere) - DO NOT use any thread locker/sealant or lubricant with TTY bolts. Bolt holes should be clean/dry - ARP makes a 'thread cleaner chaser'($50-$60) that I'm guessing too short/difficult to use thru the head but might be worth a look? My plan, for now, is to use brake cleaner, wire brush and some modified vacuum attachment chased with compressed air after all debris removed - please correct me if I'm wrong
I'm sure a minor point, but am currently in freezing conditions - garage/engine probably 30-40 degrees prior to heating the garage up - have to assume the colder the block, the better?
AMG3.2
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Take a look at this:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...adventure.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...adventure.html
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https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...adventure.html
Originally Posted by AMG3.2
Take a look at this:https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...adventure.html
Yes, been thru your thread multiple times and thanks for the write-up - my main question is on the 'mallet-tap' method (sorry if you addressed this, just don't recall).
Wouldn't normally bug but since you're 'here' - what's the Lubriplate 105 for? Is that an alternative to the redline oil applied to lifters?
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Wouldn't normally bug but since you're 'here' - what's the Lubriplate 105 for? Is that an alternative to the redline oil applied to lifters?
Definitely didn't do the mallet tap method and after watching the video, I don't really know what to think of it. Maybe it helps? Originally Posted by gmore
Yes, been thru your thread multiple times and thanks for the write-up - my main question is on the 'mallet-tap' method (sorry if you addressed this, just don't recall).Wouldn't normally bug but since you're 'here' - what's the Lubriplate 105 for? Is that an alternative to the redline oil applied to lifters?
Yes, exactly. It's just lubrication in place of oil during the first start.
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Yes, exactly. It's just lubrication in place of oil during the first start.
cool - thxOriginally Posted by AMG3.2
Definitely didn't do the mallet tap method and after watching the video, I don't really know what to think of it. Maybe it helps?Yes, exactly. It's just lubrication in place of oil during the first start.
There is ZERO mechanical sense in rapping on a bolt head where you may have bolt stretch involved...who the f*ck are you, Kanye? That can be helpful if you have a bolt head that had gauled or rusted in place. But serious note, you shouldn't be concerned about a head bolt breaking. If it were to let go it will be the head that breaks off, not the shaft or threads. Once the head breaks off the remaining bolt is no longer under tension and you can most times remove it with your fingers....you'll be fine, jump on in
