Help out with vvt advancing
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
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Help out with vvt advancing
Hey guys I know 99% of you won't know how to help but my car out of know where for the past 3 weeks is not advancing bank 2 nearly as much as bank 1.
I'm seeing up to 23 d vvt on mode 6 data on bank one and 4 to 8 on babk 2 and the car sounds really smooth and is not having the amg bark at all.
I'm thinking failing cam adjuster or maybe something is not right after taking the manifold off a few times.
Can sds test this?
Here was my car when it was running amazing a few weeks ago.both banks hitting 27d vvt now I'm seeing 4 and 23
I'm seeing up to 23 d vvt on mode 6 data on bank one and 4 to 8 on babk 2 and the car sounds really smooth and is not having the amg bark at all.
I'm thinking failing cam adjuster or maybe something is not right after taking the manifold off a few times.
Can sds test this?
Here was my car when it was running amazing a few weeks ago.both banks hitting 27d vvt now I'm seeing 4 and 23
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dhahran, KSA
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2020 E 300 Coupe and 2019 GLS 400
FYI, in SDS the EIN camshaft position while warm and in idle should be between (26-30).
I had a CEL, and a bunch of codes (Initially P0018) and the cause was a bad intake adjuster (In SDS it would say the camshaft is stuck in advanced position).
In 2016, It all started gradually. First, the engine started to vibrate like it had bad mounts only in gear while stopped, no CEL, no codes, and a steady RPM, then, out of the blue I started getting the adjuster startup rattle. In September 2018, after a cold start, the intake cam went out of position and and I would get new codes each time I start the car. Car felt really slow and the exhaust was resonating very badly. I could even notice the sound difference between the two banks (since the ML63 has no crossover). Similarly, the car DID NOT have the AMG bark anymore, or the whip sound effect and all the pops and crackles.
The engine had the early adjusters # 1560503047. Replaced both CAs with # 1560503647 and the car is better than ever, performance and sound wise. even the vibration is gone.
All these codes due to a bad EIN CA.
Bank 1 EIN CA
Bank 2 EIN CA !Notice the wear!
Bank 1 vs Bank 2
IMO If you have no CEL or codes why worry about it now. If something is wrong the ECU will report it. If you want to diagnose the VVT system, I would start by swapping the solenoids and check if anything changes. Next, would be trying to replace the cam position sensor it costs around 40$-70$. Finally would be to physically inspect the timing, but if you went through all the hassle why not replace the adjusters ?
Good luck.
I had a CEL, and a bunch of codes (Initially P0018) and the cause was a bad intake adjuster (In SDS it would say the camshaft is stuck in advanced position).
In 2016, It all started gradually. First, the engine started to vibrate like it had bad mounts only in gear while stopped, no CEL, no codes, and a steady RPM, then, out of the blue I started getting the adjuster startup rattle. In September 2018, after a cold start, the intake cam went out of position and and I would get new codes each time I start the car. Car felt really slow and the exhaust was resonating very badly. I could even notice the sound difference between the two banks (since the ML63 has no crossover). Similarly, the car DID NOT have the AMG bark anymore, or the whip sound effect and all the pops and crackles.
The engine had the early adjusters # 1560503047. Replaced both CAs with # 1560503647 and the car is better than ever, performance and sound wise. even the vibration is gone.
All these codes due to a bad EIN CA.
Bank 1 EIN CA
Bank 2 EIN CA !Notice the wear!
Bank 1 vs Bank 2
IMO If you have no CEL or codes why worry about it now. If something is wrong the ECU will report it. If you want to diagnose the VVT system, I would start by swapping the solenoids and check if anything changes. Next, would be trying to replace the cam position sensor it costs around 40$-70$. Finally would be to physically inspect the timing, but if you went through all the hassle why not replace the adjusters ?
Good luck.
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dhahran, KSA
Posts: 743
Received 91 Likes
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2020 E 300 Coupe and 2019 GLS 400
If you notice in the DTC screenshot I uploaded, the two banks are fighting each other, one is rich while the other is lean. Moreover, the fuel trims were going crazy, Bank1 LFT was -27 and Bank2 LFT was +15. Having opposing fuel trims can be a sign of timing issues. Finally, the intake manifold pressure in warm idle was about 54 kpa. The factory range should be between 28-45 Kpa.
Replacing the adjuster fixed all that!
Replacing the adjuster fixed all that!
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
If you notice in the DTC screenshot I uploaded, the two banks are fighting each other, one is rich while the other is lean. Moreover, the fuel trims were going crazy, Bank1 LFT was -27 and Bank2 LFT was +15. Having opposing fuel trims can be a sign of timing issues. Finally, the intake manifold pressure in warm idle was about 54 kpa. The factory range should be between 28-45 Kpa.
Replacing the adjuster fixed all that!
Replacing the adjuster fixed all that!
the car runs fine and pulls hard but it just not as loud and barky as it used to be.there is definitely something going on since I'm not seeing anything close to what my other bank is showing.
I will mess with it in sds and see if I can get it to flag a code for the dealership.
Also no pending or stored codes so far
Your pictures above is most likely exactly what my chatter is.
Last edited by skratch77; 11-15-2018 at 12:03 PM.
#6
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Car is at the dealership now. I'm hoping they replace cams and adjusters. I'm getting that rattle on starts again and the car will do it on hot starts.