Thoughts on my cam wear
#26
Another thing I have always wondered is whether Tasos is right in running 10w/60 oil on these engines - I know some people reckon its crazy to run such a high viscous oil...BUT if the ideas is to coat the upper engine parts thoroughly between drives (say if the car is a daily driver) then maybe a thicker viscosity is better at reducing valve train wear on startup? Makes sense to me...but I would be interested to see the numbers.
#27
Junior Member
I was actually thinking the exact same thing.
If we agree that idle = bad cam wear, then its likely that the severe cam wear observed on low kms cars is a result of too much idling - makes sense to me and one of the reasons why I decided against installing a remote starter kit on my vehicle.
Another thing I have always wondered is whether Tasos is right in running 10w/60 oil on these engines - I know some people reckon its crazy to run such a high viscous oil...BUT if the ideas is to coat the upper engine parts thoroughly between drives (say if the car is a daily driver) then maybe a thicker viscosity is better at reducing valve train wear on startup? Makes sense to me...but I would be interested to see the numbers.
If we agree that idle = bad cam wear, then its likely that the severe cam wear observed on low kms cars is a result of too much idling - makes sense to me and one of the reasons why I decided against installing a remote starter kit on my vehicle.
Another thing I have always wondered is whether Tasos is right in running 10w/60 oil on these engines - I know some people reckon its crazy to run such a high viscous oil...BUT if the ideas is to coat the upper engine parts thoroughly between drives (say if the car is a daily driver) then maybe a thicker viscosity is better at reducing valve train wear on startup? Makes sense to me...but I would be interested to see the numbers.
#28
I can't recall specific details, but folks on this forum, ones who've been around these cars for a while, collectively agree that sticking with 5W or 0W-30 oil is best. I respect Tasos, but I concluded that I'm going to stick with what's been agreed here by folks who've driven these cars for years with no problems. If I recall correctly, the lower viscosity oils will strain the engine, no bueno. As we discussed here, and other threads have too, using liqui moly etc. is the go-to for coating internals to reduce friction and wear.
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bradsm87 (09-25-2019)
#30
Actually the correct MB spec is 229.5 and that includes some 0w30 oils..
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
But the general consensus is 0w30 is too thin for our engines and MB used to use 0w40 M1 and now use 5w40 M1 to try and mitigate lifter bleed down problems with the M156.
There are some really good threads on this topic and awesome (detailed) posts by some of the more experienced members..i luv reading this stuff ..links below.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...0w40-5w40.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...c-229-5-a.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-question.html
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
But the general consensus is 0w30 is too thin for our engines and MB used to use 0w40 M1 and now use 5w40 M1 to try and mitigate lifter bleed down problems with the M156.
There are some really good threads on this topic and awesome (detailed) posts by some of the more experienced members..i luv reading this stuff ..links below.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...0w40-5w40.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...c-229-5-a.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-question.html
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MBMike09 (09-26-2019)
#31
Note the number 2 next to the 229.5 dot for some engines including M156.
Point 2 at the bottom of the page reads:
Restriction: Only SAE 0W-40 und SAE 5W-40 engine oils are allowed !
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MBMike09 (09-26-2019)
#32
#33
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Update: MB did not agree that my cams and buckets needed replaced and consider the wear normal (maybe normal on an M156 but I would not consider it normal personally). They did however decide the cam adjusters where a bit noisy and where the cold startup so they replaced those for me at their expense, so at least i got that out of the deal and will monitor cam wear and maybe do cams and buckets at some point.
#34
The problem is that the intake camshaft is higher than the exhaust. Thats why the echaust camshaft is mostly in good shape and the intake done.
I‘m not a engineer but it shouldnt be a rocket science to solve this problem.
I‘m not a engineer but it shouldnt be a rocket science to solve this problem.
#35
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That is generally the issue, the exhaust cam is better oiled, although if you look at my pictures on the first post you will see both cams have the same equal wear on my car (one cam has yellow paint and one has blue) and the exhaust cam is wearing as much oddly.
#37
I can't recall specific details, but folks on this forum, ones who've been around these cars for a while, collectively agree that sticking with 5W or 0W-30 oil is best. I respect Tasos, but I concluded that I'm going to stick with what's been agreed here by folks who've driven these cars for years with no problems. If I recall correctly, the lower viscosity oils will strain the engine, no bueno. As we discussed here, and other threads have too, using liqui moly etc. is the go-to for coating internals to reduce friction and wear.
#38
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Let me correct you with something, I used many brand of oils Mobil1, liqui moly, motul, AmsOil, and Redline in my 09 c63. With Mobil1 temps with always stay high, and I got two times a lifter stuck,well I switched to Liqui moly after the amazing reviews after 3k oil change intervals, better cooling of the oil, but lifter got stock again but only ones,, next 3k oil change switch to Amsoil now with ceratec and a zinc additive, no more lifter stock. Next oil change at 3k Motul with Liquimoly hydraulic lifter additive and Mos2 additive, and the car runs like a tesla. So freaking quiet and smooth and temps where always stable because of the ster base oil motul uses. Next Redline same as motul with the difference that I had to add two quarts of oil in a period of 4k oil change intervals and oil was not cheap I spend 125$ for for 12 quarts of oil.. now I am happy back with motul for ever
#39
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Go with molygen 5w40 and a can of lifter additive from them. I use molygen and 8100 and I just went back to molygen from 8100 and the car sounds 10x better.
#40
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Thanks, I have a can of lifter additive in it right now with MB oil, next change was thinking about liquid moly have been happy with it in everything else I run it in.