Hello guys

I currently have a 2009 c63.
I took the car to track, and after the trackday, I started to realize the car doesnt run the same.

The car has lost its happiness, the engine seems very lazy and i have a metallic tick following the revs up.

The dealer here in spain obviously told me all is ok.

I had it checked by an independent garage and he’s checked all engine he says all seems ok. But says the car is too lazy.

He is recommending me to start by changing the camshaft position sensors?

i dont get how a sensor can create a metallic sound. Ive read other issues such as chain being tensed ect.

Not much of an engineer, a bit lost over here. Please help.

thanks

No codes? Misfires? All cylinders sparking?

What’s the mileage?

Possibly there's an exhaust restriction somewhere. I'd verify that the cats are working correctly and haven't been clogged.

the mechanic told me there was a misfire but he said it can be normal?
other than that he said he checked everything seems fine.

28,000km

ill pass it on. Thank you!

I have changed the solenoids and the car seems to be a bit more lively.
but still have the ticking sound following the rpms. Coming from the driver side of the engine.

any idea what this could be? Thanks

a video with good sound would help us.

I couldnt manage to upload directly here’s the link


Thanks

Any help please

from the video it sounds like how all M156's sound. your cam adjusters are making that ticking noise. before doing anything that would require lots of money, i'd suggest running a good engine flush, then replacing with quality oil and possibly additive. i personally have had great success with LiquiMoly Engine Flush then replacement with Motul X-Cess 8100 5W-40 and LiquiMoly MoS2. Ceratec from LiquiMoly is great as well but should not be used during the same oil treatment interval as MoS2.

what oil is in your engine now? also do you have the upgraded 507 oil cooler system? it could very well be that you've cooked your engine oil. oil breaks down drastically with heat, and if not of a quality oil it simply will not last. FYI, Mobil 1 wears out very quickly and loss of power is very drastic through time or abuse. "Quality" oils like Motul, Neo, enos, LiquiMoly, etc do not break down and continue producing power much longer than off the shelf brands like Mobil 1. Other so called high end oils like Royal Purple lose power very quickly as well. Not all oils are the same and oil is simply not oil when used in a high performance engine.

Can you substantiate this? 540rat’s oil testing showed mobil 1 (european car formula) to be one of the most resistant oils money can buy to both pressure forces and temperature abuse.

From what ive seen the cam issues attributed to mobil 1 were due to oil passages not fully drilled through cams and oil drain down and were not issues with the oils durability.

Thanks so much for your answer.

i am running the stock oil and have not changed it after that track day.
I have seen posts about other cars making this noise. But my question is, why it only came after the trackday.

I am brining the car to the dealer on monday.
what do you suggest i tell them?
change oil and shall they check anything else on the cam adjusters?

the exhayst sound is less deep and less amount of noise.
Response of car changed alot since trackday. I figured the ticking noise could be related?

Say what now? Drastic power loss? Continue producing power? Lose power quickly? None of this makes any sense my friend.

Changing the oil won't bring your power back but it can tell you if you have a problem. When the dealer drains it have them take a sample and send it in to a lab. We use Blackstone in the states. Have them run an analysis to see if there are excessive metals in your oil.
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Run your codes, clear any that exist. Disconnect your battery for a few hours.

I’ve had something similar happen a handful of times after thrashing it. Exhaust sounds muffled and less snappy, down on power, wouldn’t rev freely. I don’t have any proof whatsoever to back this up but it seemed to be in some sort of protective state. Resetting everything helped to get it back on track. Worth a shot here.

At OP. If you are worried about the internals of your motor and such, do an oil change and send the Old oil sample out to get analyzed. It’s $25 and will tell you the state of your internals in the aspect of wear

thats exactly what I feel.
I am bringing it tomorrow to the service ill tell them to remove battery also.
and change oil

but regarding the sound it irritates me that it wasn’t there before i feel it could be linked.

Any upgrades i could do or any parts i should change ? Maybe theres been improved parts since the made the car.
the engine has been untouched since it was built

thanks to all for your feedback

could very well mean your cam adjuster is being lazy and not moving as it should. could also be your ECU pulling ignition timing because it feels that it cannot delivery maximum timing and/or fuel. the engine computer has a set number of cycles before it can return to full power after logging misfires or "potential" misfires. potential misfires are logged through the ignition coils and spark plugs.

a scan would definitely help in regards to identifying pending faults or diagnosis of cam adjusters.

Ion Sensing Ignition Systems

UPDATE;

Mercedes kept insisting the car is fine and assured the ticking noise came from the lifters.

changed lifters ticking noise and engine issue still there.

another independent dealer found some issues with the engine distribution.
Will take it back to dealer to claim credit for lifters and demand them to find me a solution. I was advised it could be anything with timing and timing chain.

what do you guys think?

still hoping to get if fixed instead of selling it.

Thank you

if you've reset your computer adaptations and changed your oil and plugs without issue...there really isn't much more you can do. your engine sounds fine.

additionally any mercedes dealer can scan past fault codes. if your computer logged ANY issue, it would show. the computer in our cars is very intelligent and will log any issue very accurately.

Mine sounded just like that before the intake cam adjuster failed. Now the same drivers side intake adjuster failed and may have taken a few valves and spark plugs with it. I'd try another shop.

How did the Cam Adjuster fail?
Did it physically break or just stop adjusting, like worn out pin seat.
At 100k/klms mine was lifter ticking and CA rattle on start up and until warmed up
Replaced lifters and did pin flip on CA's and has been quiet since now around 5-8K/klms driven.