W204 C63 AMG Head Gasket & Head Bolt Replacement Cost
1. What do you think it would cost in labor and parts to accomplish this job?
2. Should I replace the timing chain while that far deep into the car? If so, what do you think the additional cost could be?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
No point in replacing the timing chain unless you believe you have stretch issues or 200kmi+, Labor and cost to replace that would easily add a few thousand more as the front cover would need to be removed, which would require engine removal. lower and upper oil pan removal aswell. This would be a good time to have the engine mounts, spark plugs, belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and thermostat replaced.
$3300.00 labor / parts, $1902.20$5202.20 +tax Labor
Replace Head Gaskets And Associated Components. This Quote Is With Stock Head Bolts.
Parts Qty
Air Intake Seal 1.0
Crankcase Vent Valve 1.0
Spark Plug ILZKAR7A10 NGK 8.0
Cyl. Head Bolt Set 10 per set 2.0
Cylinder Head Gasket 1.0
Exhaust Manifold Gasket 2.0
Intake Manifold Gasket 2.0
Oil Dipstick Seal 1.0
$2310.00 labor / parts, $8039.28$10349.28 +tax Labor
Replace Timing Chain And Associated Components While Performing Head Gasket Repair.
Parts Qty
Camshaft Adjuster Soleno 4.0
Crankshaft Seal 1.0
Timing Chain Tensioner 1.0
Timing Crankshaft Sprocket 1.0
Timing Chain 1.0
Intermediate Gear 2.0
Pin 2.0
Camshaft Pos. Sen. Interrupter 4.0
Camshaft Adjuster 2.0
Camshaft Adjuster 2.0
Timing Sprocket 1.0
MERCEDES SEALANT 1.0
Timing Cover Gasket 32mm x 42mm 1.0
Timing Cover Gasket 1.0
Water Pump 1.0
Acc. Belt Idler Pulley 1.0
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parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.
Last edited by roadkillrob; Dec 31, 2019 at 11:06 AM.
parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.
What about the issue of just a small leak and the bolt is not snap off yet?




parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.
A month ago the radiator, expansion tank and all related hoses were replaced. The issue then was obvious, well it was to the shop technician. BTW, I’ve been doing business with this independent shop for over ten years. Just about a month after the aforementioned radiator... repair/replacement, I received a “Check Coolant...” alert. The level was down in the expansion tank. I checked my engine oil and the color was normal. I topped off the coolant and all was fine until a week ago when the level dropped again. This time the car was sitting a few days at the airport and when I drove home, about 35 miles, a received the “check coolant...” as I pulled into my driveway. WTF? I shutdown in the garage and popped the hood to find the expansion tank level one inch lower than the sensor. I grabbed a rag and slowly opened the reservoir. I wish that I videotaped this part because as I released the cap the coolant level returned to normal. The next morning I started the car, idled for about two or three minutes and “Check Coolant level...” alert. Opened the hood and the level was down about the same level as the night before. This is when I drove it to the shop where it remains. However, the coolant level hasn’t dropped since. This is the part that is mysterious. FYI, I change motor oil myself and do so not more than 3,000 miles between changes, oil and filter. The expansion tank now shows some film floating on the surface that looks oily.
Last edited by rguatelli; Jan 2, 2020 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Details
A month ago the radiator, expansion tank and all related hoses were replaced. The issue then was obvious, well it was to the shop technician. BTW, I’ve been doing business with this independent shop for over ten years. Just about a month after the aforementioned radiator... repair/replacement, I received a “Check Coolant...” alert. The level was down in the expansion tank. I checked my engine oil and the color was normal. I topped off the coolant and all was fine until a week ago when the level dropped again. This time the car was sitting a few days at the airport and when I drove home, about 35 miles, a received the “check coolant...” as I pulled into my driveway. WTF? I shutdown in the garage and popped the hood to find the expansion tank level one inch lower than the sensor. I grabbed a rag and slowly opened the reservoir. I wish that I videotaped this part because as I released the cap the coolant level returned to normal. The next morning I started the car, idled for about two or three minutes and “Check Coolant level...” alert. Opened the hood and the level was down about the same level as the night before. This is when I drove it to the shop where it remains. However, the coolant level hasn’t dropped since. This is the part that is mysterious. FYI, I change motor oil myself and do so not more than 3,000 miles between changes, oil and filter. The expansion tank now shows some film floating on the surface that looks oily.
Are you going to go with the OEM bolts or the ARP?
So I realized the coolant must go into the inner chamber and evaporate, Oddly enough before the coolant loss was noticed I had a P2187 fault (RH bank lean) and they identified a crank case vent control valve cracked and needed replacement.
I suspect a head bolt or two have stretched and coolant entered the inner chamber flashed to steam and failed the plastic sensor (acted as the pressure relief valve).
Therefore I have a couple questions;
1/ Can the crank control valve be purchased and installed separately OR is it married to the manifold (as my mechanic understands it) ?
2/ If valve and manifold are married and I remove the manifold for the Head Bolt work could the cracked valve be repaired (with epoxy and carbon fiber wrap) rather than pay $2k for a manifold ?
3/ What was the final cost of your repair (replace head bolts and Head gaskets) ?
Thank you,
Ed Leader
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada





