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W204 C63 AMG Head Gasket & Head Bolt Replacement Cost

Old Dec 30, 2019 | 09:21 PM
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W204 C63 AMG Head Gasket & Head Bolt Replacement Cost

After 11 years my C63 has finally had an issue. Coolant vanished from the expansion tank, it dropped one inch below the sensor level. Long story short: My shop found that I need a head gasket. While in there I have decided that the head bolts should be replaced with the newer style that aren’t prone to leaking.

1. What do you think it would cost in labor and parts to accomplish this job?

2. Should I replace the timing chain while that far deep into the car? If so, what do you think the additional cost could be?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.


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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:01 PM
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If you are changing the gasket the price difference would be nothing to do the bolts as they have to come out to do the gasket so whatever new bolts would cost us the cost. Unless you have a ton of miles on the car the timing chain will be fine unless you are overly picky and like replacing everything you can it’s not necessary
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:01 PM
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Full head bolt and head gasket replacement you're looking at roughly $3k total in parts, and labor. An additional $1k to replace the lifters which is specified in the bulletin while doing this repair.
No point in replacing the timing chain unless you believe you have stretch issues or 200kmi+, Labor and cost to replace that would easily add a few thousand more as the front cover would need to be removed, which would require engine removal. lower and upper oil pan removal aswell. This would be a good time to have the engine mounts, spark plugs, belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and thermostat replaced.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:09 PM
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You don’t have a bad HG. You have a broken or stretched head bolt(s). Make sure your shop knows what they’re doing. Good luck.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:25 PM
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Car has 100,000 miles. One shop quoted me $6,800 for gasket and head replacement ($3,300 of that is labor) and an additional $10,500 to do the timing chain ($8,000 in parts and $2,500 for labor) Labor is $140 per hour.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:31 PM
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And you are thinking of paying that? Yikes
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by deadlyvt
And you are thinking of paying that? Yikes
Nope. Just trying to understand why this shop would quote me this much.

$3300.00 labor / parts, $1902.20$5202.20 +tax Labor

Replace Head Gaskets And Associated Components. This Quote Is With Stock Head Bolts.

Parts Qty
Air Intake Seal 1.0
Crankcase Vent Valve 1.0
Spark Plug ILZKAR7A10 NGK 8.0
Cyl. Head Bolt Set 10 per set 2.0
Cylinder Head Gasket 1.0
Exhaust Manifold Gasket 2.0
Intake Manifold Gasket 2.0
Oil Dipstick Seal 1.0

$2310.00 labor / parts, $8039.28$10349.28 +tax Labor

Replace Timing Chain And Associated Components While Performing Head Gasket Repair.

Parts Qty
Camshaft Adjuster Soleno 4.0
Crankshaft Seal 1.0
Timing Chain Tensioner 1.0
Timing Crankshaft Sprocket 1.0
Timing Chain 1.0
Intermediate Gear 2.0
Pin 2.0
Camshaft Pos. Sen. Interrupter 4.0
Camshaft Adjuster 2.0
Camshaft Adjuster 2.0
Timing Sprocket 1.0
MERCEDES SEALANT 1.0
Timing Cover Gasket 32mm x 42mm 1.0
Timing Cover Gasket 1.0
Water Pump 1.0
Acc. Belt Idler Pulley 1.0



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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:52 PM
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Ya the stock head bolts that they are using would be the updated version, so you wouldn’t need any additional costs. However that price is steep I would check around. The timing chain replacement is just pure insanity if you do it
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:53 PM
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As was previously stated, the lifters should probably be replaced while you have the head off and the cams inspected and replaced if needed as well while you have them out
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
You don’t have a bad HG. You have a broken or stretched head bolt(s). Make sure your shop knows what they’re doing. Good luck.
Does the head gasket needs to be replaced for his issue? Will replace the head bolt fix the leaking issue? I imagine the leaks is very slow and minimal for it to finally get to that level after that many miles. I am in a process of installing a supercharger and realized that I have the same issue he has 1 year ago.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Wills Chang
Does the head gasket needs to be replaced for his issue? Will replace the head bolt fix the leaking issue? I imagine the leaks is very slow and minimal for it to finally get to that level after that many miles. I am in a process of installing a supercharger and realized that I have the same issue he has 1 year ago.
If it is leaking because of a broken bolt then the heads will need to come off most likely to remove the broken bolt.

parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.

Last edited by roadkillrob; Dec 31, 2019 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by roadkillrob
If it is leaking because of a broken bolt then the heads will need to come off most likely to remove the broken bolt.

parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.
I see.....

What about the issue of just a small leak and the bolt is not snap off yet?

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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wills Chang
I see.....

What about the issue of just a small leak and the bolt is not snap off yet?
Well getting it out is the challenge, you may break some or they may come out, once it is leaking though then a bolt has weekend and stopped clamping the head properly so is likely to break, just will be luck at that point. The other complication can be that once you break one you may not be able to get the head lifted off before contacting the sides of the engine compartment which isn't a problem if the bolts all come out, just depends where it is located if it will make head removal possible or not, so then you have to either extract the bolt with the head still on or pull the engine worst case to get the head off to remove the broken bolt.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkillrob
Well getting it out is the challenge, you may break some or they may come out, once it is leaking though then a bolt has weekend and stopped clamping the head properly so is likely to break, just will be luck at that point. The other complication can be that once you break one you may not be able to get the head lifted off before contacting the sides of the engine compartment which isn't a problem if the bolts all come out, just depends where it is located if it will make head removal possible or not, so then you have to either extract the bolt with the head still on or pull the engine worst case to get the head off to remove the broken bolt.
you are right I guess. Well wish me luck 🤣
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Wills Chang
you are right I guess. Well wish me luck 🤣
Good luck!
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 09:46 PM
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Ship your car to me and it will still be way cheaper than what you were quoted lol. At least you'll know it's right too. Unlike seeing all these threads lately of peoples cars being out of time.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 09:38 AM
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More to the story...

Originally Posted by roadkillrob
If it is leaking because of a broken bolt then the heads will need to come off most likely to remove the broken bolt.

parts prices seem crazy on that quote, parts if I look them up are half that cost for OEM less for non OEM. Labor should be 15-20 hours max so their labor rate is up there between 165 and 200 also so basically that seems like a dealer for pricing.
The mysterious aspects of this issue is the following details that I neglected to mention previously:

A month ago the radiator, expansion tank and all related hoses were replaced. The issue then was obvious, well it was to the shop technician. BTW, I’ve been doing business with this independent shop for over ten years. Just about a month after the aforementioned radiator... repair/replacement, I received a “Check Coolant...” alert. The level was down in the expansion tank. I checked my engine oil and the color was normal. I topped off the coolant and all was fine until a week ago when the level dropped again. This time the car was sitting a few days at the airport and when I drove home, about 35 miles, a received the “check coolant...” as I pulled into my driveway. WTF? I shutdown in the garage and popped the hood to find the expansion tank level one inch lower than the sensor. I grabbed a rag and slowly opened the reservoir. I wish that I videotaped this part because as I released the cap the coolant level returned to normal. The next morning I started the car, idled for about two or three minutes and “Check Coolant level...” alert. Opened the hood and the level was down about the same level as the night before. This is when I drove it to the shop where it remains. However, the coolant level hasn’t dropped since. This is the part that is mysterious. FYI, I change motor oil myself and do so not more than 3,000 miles between changes, oil and filter. The expansion tank now shows some film floating on the surface that looks oily.

Last edited by rguatelli; Jan 2, 2020 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Details
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rguatelli
The mysterious aspects of this issue is the following details that I neglected to mention previously:

A month ago the radiator, expansion tank and all related hoses were replaced. The issue then was obvious, well it was to the shop technician. BTW, I’ve been doing business with this independent shop for over ten years. Just about a month after the aforementioned radiator... repair/replacement, I received a “Check Coolant...” alert. The level was down in the expansion tank. I checked my engine oil and the color was normal. I topped off the coolant and all was fine until a week ago when the level dropped again. This time the car was sitting a few days at the airport and when I drove home, about 35 miles, a received the “check coolant...” as I pulled into my driveway. WTF? I shutdown in the garage and popped the hood to find the expansion tank level one inch lower than the sensor. I grabbed a rag and slowly opened the reservoir. I wish that I videotaped this part because as I released the cap the coolant level returned to normal. The next morning I started the car, idled for about two or three minutes and “Check Coolant level...” alert. Opened the hood and the level was down about the same level as the night before. This is when I drove it to the shop where it remains. However, the coolant level hasn’t dropped since. This is the part that is mysterious. FYI, I change motor oil myself and do so not more than 3,000 miles between changes, oil and filter. The expansion tank now shows some film floating on the surface that looks oily.
sounds like mine issue too. But my level hasn’t changed for a long time now. I didn’t check and see if there is film floating on the coolant, I should check it.

Are you going to go with the OEM bolts or the ARP?
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Wills Chang
sounds like mine issue too. But my level hasn’t changed for a long time now. I didn’t check and see if there is film floating on the coolant, I should check it.

Are you going to go with the OEM bolts or the ARP?
I’m going with the newer head bolts, not the indented original design.
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 08:48 PM
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Question Have same issue in my 2009 SL 6.3 @ 89,000 km

Originally Posted by rguatelli
I’m going with the newer head bolts, not the indented original design.
Because of guys like you I have been able to diagnosis my mystery coolant loss. I had no external leaks and the pressure test was good ( because done cold they didn't see a leak).

So I realized the coolant must go into the inner chamber and evaporate, Oddly enough before the coolant loss was noticed I had a P2187 fault (RH bank lean) and they identified a crank case vent control valve cracked and needed replacement.
I suspect a head bolt or two have stretched and coolant entered the inner chamber flashed to steam and failed the plastic sensor (acted as the pressure relief valve).

Therefore I have a couple questions;

1/ Can the crank control valve be purchased and installed separately OR is it married to the manifold (as my mechanic understands it) ?
2/ If valve and manifold are married and I remove the manifold for the Head Bolt work could the cracked valve be repaired (with epoxy and carbon fiber wrap) rather than pay $2k for a manifold ?
3/ What was the final cost of your repair (replace head bolts and Head gaskets) ?

Thank you,
Ed Leader
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
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