You do not need to drill a hole in the floor for the drain plug. As with the original, simply unscrew the front lower cover when draining.

I can't say exactly whether the dimensions are the same, but I wouldn't change the sealing ring every time. As long as it is tight, everything is OK. Otherwise, just use any brass ring that fits.

 

Ok thanks.

what are people using as the torque spec on the drain plug for the upgraded oil cooler?

 

Ok, my guy Tommy at Tbk Motorsports is mounting up this oil cooler kit for me while we finish test fitting the first set of Girodisc 360mm rear rotors we are prototype testing for them for c63 w204.
He ran into a couple bolt fitment issues, and an extra mounting hole alignment issue that I didn't see mentioned here in this thread. The kit comes with no bolts and as far as I could tell from this thread was supposed to use factory mounting bolts for the cooler and the oil lines, and you were supposed to source your own M6 bolts for mounting the new air shroud. Also you are supposed to drill holes and do a rivet job on the outlet ducts when mounting them to the factory undertray.

So as Sven stated the mounting holes where the new oil cooler mounts to the car had to be elongated to get them lined up with the new cooler. After doing this we found that the factory bolts that are supposed to be used to mount the new cooler are too long and bottom out in the new cooler before getting tight to the mounting holes on the car. This was an easy fix, add two washers to each factory bolt to take up the extra space and then they will tighten up properly before they bottom out. Here is the video link:

Another thing he found that wasn't mentioned anywhere in this thread is that the mounting holes on the new air duct didn't quite align with the new oil cooler and had to be dremeled out to mount up properly. Here is the video link:

Also the oil cooler lines, which in this thread Sven said to use the factory bolts on, did not come close to working with the factory bolts. The factory bolts were way too long and bottomed out in the new oil cooler threads about 1/2 an inch or so before the bolt head would touch the oil line mounting flange to get it tight. Here is a video link:

I am not sure why my oil cooler kit would be different in such a way that the factory oil cooler mounting bolts and factory oil cooler line mounting bolts that the new oil cooler is supposed to use would not work but they didn't.

A couple other things:
if someone reads this thread from the beginning they might get the idea that the new oil cooler has the drain plug on the bottom of the end tank, as shown in Sven's early pictures. But my oil cooler, and the more recently posted pictures of other coolers have the drain plug on the side of the end tank, so you can ignore the part in his early posts where it says you can drill a hole in the undertray to access the drain plug for an oil change without removing the factory undertray.
Also in the early posts there is mention of an air blocker strip you have to make to create a low pressure area for the outlet airflow of the oil cooler. The kits now come with 2 angled vent outlets made from aluminum that get riveted into the undertray. The way the vents angle downward and face the rear of the car, it seems they create their own low pressure area for airflow outlet, so I assume the homemade strip mentioned earlier is no longer necessary? (Sven please validate this for me. Thx)

I did not post the YouTube videos on my channel for public viewing, only people here with the link can view them.

Hope this post helps others who are considering this oil cooler.

 

Any further info on the rear rotors? Interested in the upgrade if it uses a similar spacer/carrier principal as the front 390mm.

 

I will post that on the other thread I started for the brakes when we are done.

 

Both parts are handmade independently of each other. Therefore, there can sometimes be 1-2mm misalignment. Since the front air duct is fixed with 4 screws and washers anyway, you don't see the holes and you adjust them accordingly. I do not sell Mercedes parts in mass production but handmade tuning parts.

The side plastic bracket is movable and sometimes wider or narrower.

The oil line screws should normally fit. Maybe the thread was not cut to the end or there was a leftover piece of aluminium in it? Or the original aftermarket screws are too long? Anyway, as far as the screw goes in, everything is OK. Just use a shorter screw. Normally the screw should go into the thread.

I don't see any major defect but just a normal assembly?

Since I see that the radiator is in place and everything seems to be working, I would like to know how it works.

The lip you are referring to is from another user.

 

Ya, how could the factory oil line bolts be "too long" when they worked on the factory oil cooler perfectly?
It was not a piece of aluminum left in the threaded hole since both oil lines on each side had the same issues, so I must assume the threads were not machined to the proper depth on the new oil cooler.

As for the side plastic mounting bracket for the cooler, the issue obviously was not that the bracket was narrow or wide, as the bolts would just pull it in if the threaded mounting holes had been machined correctly,, the issue was that the threaded mounting holes on your oil cooler kit were not deep enough to use the factory length bolts.

As for the air strip I am asking if the newer air outlet vents that came with the kit make it so that strip is not necessary, I understand it was not part of the kit. Thx

Also saying you see just a normal assembly here is quite suspect since you told me the factory bolts were to be used. there are obvious issues with the machining of the mounting holes as shown in the videos. So perhaps you should do some quality control before shipping, or include bolts that will work so purchasers doing this upgrade on their own don't get stuck without the correct mounting hardware.

I have a track day next week at Palm Beach road course, we will see if there is any improvement to oil temps at that time.

 

Because its not a factory oil cooler? If the screws did not fit in this particular case, why not use shorter ones, as your mechanic probably did? I see no problem here
I will clarify this and point out in the future that a shorter screw may have to be used. The screw goes in so far that it makes absolutely no difference to the functionality.

Yes, the new lower air deflectors replace this lip.

I will amend the description above to say that washers and shorter bolts may be needed for fitting and that fitting should be done by an experienced mechanic as you did.

 

YOU told people, in this thread, to reuse the factory bolts.

So yes the solutions were common sense, but they were still solutions to misinformation you provided. Take some responsibility for your product, I did you a favor by taking my time to point these out in detail so your future customers don't make a costly error like trying to force a bolt that you told them would work.

The snarky attitude shown in your pre-edited response I posted in the screen shot above is not necessary, glad you chose to edit it.

 

What the *** did I just read?

You’re complaining because a couple of washers had to be used and bolt holes elongated?
Are you serious?

AMG’s factory-developed 44O kit was not even close to “bolt-on”, and took a ton of work to get right (including different hardware, riveting, gluing and cutting). Certainly way more than you went through.

This guy went way out of his way to develop a custom 99.9% bolt-in cooling solution for the forum when there is none - ZERO - on the market. Why are we making a big deal out of nothing here?

Am I missing something? We’re modifying cars here right?

 

Ya you are missing something, the point. There was no complaining, just posting the things we encountered that weren't mentioned so if anyone tried this at home they wouldn't get stuck. That's it. Reading into it more than that is just BLKROKT being the negative guy we all have seen here.
he said it was some m6 bolts for the shroud and all factory hardware, "plugnplay". Pointing out that it isn't that exactly shouldn't be taken as a fundamental battle.. you complaining about more info being added here is what is worrisome

 

I read it as a complain fest as well. Could have just been more to the point.

• Factory cooler line bolts too long, had to cut (be careful, could cause damage if you're an idiot)
• Factory side mount bolts slightly too long, used washers (be careful, could cause damage if you're an idiot)

 

Whatever dude. Take it as info or a complaint, doesn't matter to me a bit.
I'll be sure not to 'complain' about the oil temps at the track next week on this thread.
judging by the negative responses I have seen to others by Jasonoff and BLkrokt it just seems like par for your courses. Have a nice night ladies.

 

Oh no. I think he called us ladies Jas. I don’t know how I’m ever going to get over this.

 

You generally never appreciate help like you're entitled to it or something. There's always a complaint in your "give me help" posts so maybe I was already biased?

Three users here took your replies negatively already. Maybe just accept the constructive criticism and move on or just call me names again. Doesn't matter, hope your cooler upgrade works for you.

 

Those look to be like very minor fitment issues, you can easily cut down the bolts or just use some nice stainless steel button head bolts. I've always never expected for aftermarket parts to fit 100%.

 

I agree with you that they are minor issues.

It says in the beginning of my post that he ran into bolt fitment issues and that the fixes were easy.
The issues simply hadn't been mentioned anywhere leading me to believe something had possibly changed in the oil cooler machining so other people might encounter this in the future, and that if people were trying this at home they might need to be prepared with some different mounting hardware. SRG did not seem aware that these were potential issues with the factory bolts so I think I did the right thing putting the info out there for future customers. I will just leave it at that.

 

Just in case you decide to edit these away. I want everyone to see what an entitled dîck you are. Forever.

 

NON-OEM parts not fitting 100% perfect!?!

lol

…I’m still buying this setup, when I’m back home.
Pretty sure I can deal with the 99.5% fitment.
SRG has done a hell of a job.

 

Just remember you may need to trim some of the OEM bolts. So don't just jam em in like a monkey.

 

Or, you know, just look at them and use deductive reasoning.

 

I had similar problems fitting my absolutely great oil cooler but didn't phase me.
Dremel here, a few extra washers there, so what, its not oem.
Its designed by a forum member to fill a void left by the no longer available 440 kit.
Not by a big company like Weistec.
Thankyou SRG-C63

 

Or better yet, go down to the hardware store with one, grab two that are the same size and pitch, just shorter.

What a concept.


Edit:
If they’re metric, use metric as the replacement item.
Just in case someone needs to know. Lol

 

I have one of these (UK near reading) but never fitted it. Anyone want it?

 

Try joining and posting here. I imagine it’ll go quite quickly for the right price. The group is very active.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1707...585/?ref=share