SRG_C63

Hello Guys,

I always had Oil temperature problems with my C63 PP+ 10'. So I searched the whole internet for a solution for this. AMG offered the 44O Package but they dont sell it anymore. Also it wasnt a really solution for the pre facelift model.
So I decided, to make from several ideas from the Internet my own oil cooler. Its 70% bigger than the stock oil cooler and hand made in Germany. Next week I will be making a custom air intake duct to produce a maximum of efficiency. Also a air duct for the bottom of the oil cooler that uses the venturi effect. These Oil Cooler will fit without modding an facelift and prefacelift.
Never see limp mode again!

If you are interested in the cooler, you can reach me via email here:

srg_c63@gmx.de

And here it is:










If you are interested in the cooler, you can reach me via email here:

srg_c63@gmx.de

c63_alex

Subbed to see how the install goes

Mort

Nice looking cooler. I may need to replace mine, so this could be a good option and upgrade as well.

SRG_C63

This cooler is also bigger as the C63 Black Series cooler.
Black Series: 150 X 510 X 50
Upgraded: 170 X 550 X 50
(cooling net)

In relation with the original cooler the price is a great deal!

BLKROKT

I believe that Mercedes uses Setrab cores, the best. At least that’s what the sticker on my diff cooler says.

Good luck with this. Interested in some real results here, i.e. numbers. Many have tried to make bigger “better” coolers only for them to turn out even worse in real-world testing.

Kriston

Interested in this as well!

Honro

Following! All the best man, hope it all goes well!

SRG_C63

Well, guess what I used for this cooler

These are Custom made Setrab cooling cores only in in a wider range.
If you look on the pictures above, you can see that it isnt a full core. They are 2 pieces made into one. 1x 150 and 1x30 mm high.

So, its a black series cooler in wider und higher. Next week I will show you the air duct that gives a huge raise for the efficiency.

I have tested this as a prototype. It worked perfect.

Edit: After the install, I will show you guys how that cooler will improve the oil cooling situation in my car

SRG_C63

So, I just got an Mail from the manufractor that shows, how the cooler looks from inside.




On the left is a cheap aluminium core. On the right its a Setrab core. The difference are inner fins. They improve the cool down process and are very important for a good oil cooler!

I think you mean the Fluid Motor Union Oil cooler?

The problem with that cooler is, that you cant get a very good improvement from that thickness of the cooler. If you look on the market (Germany), every Oilcooler has a maximum of 50mm thickness. I talked with the manufractor and he has also given me an offer for a 70-80mm thick cooler. But he told me, that this isnt improving the efficiency of the cooler. He would rather go with wide and thin, as with small and thick. With a thick cooler, you cant get a good air flow and you will reduce the power of the cooler. Also the heat from the oil will be saved more in the cooler because of much material in a small area.

The manufractor builds coolers for many high race series here in Germany.

Also without a air duct, any cooler will be not as good as possible and you lower the maximum of efficiency.

On monday I will start the install

jaimejrivera

Can you share part number and company information you got yours?

sventastic82

Genialer Zollstock.

Jasonoff

Phil_T

Prices too? Will it come with the extra ducting too?

SRG_C63

There is no part number. Its a full custom made oil cooler. If someone only wants the cooler, he can contact me.

I paid around 1150$ without the air ducting. The air ducting will be around 250$. So 1400$ complete. I also have to say that there were a lot of calls and changes and the cooler became more expensive than I expected. Now the radiator has been adapted to the car and the dimensions are fixed. If some of you are interested, we could organize a group buy. Then we would surely get a good discount.

Jasonoff

Eyebrow raised but need more info on mounting etc. I will not have an AC condenser but that shouldn't affect anything.

SRG_C63

What do you meam with info on mounting?
Simply remove the existing cooler and install the new one. The whole thing is plug and play. No modifications are required.

As I said, Monday I will show pictures and a DIY install guide. The installation only takes about 45 minutes and a bottle of beer.

Jasonoff

My bad if I missed this in a previous post.

Phil1305

I'm interested in this as well. Once install pics and seeing how the ducting is routed will gain more interest on here. I. Definitely interested would also like to see temp data on how much cooler this will keep your oil temps. I routinely run 215-225 °f oil temps just cruising. So I want to bring them down.

I'm definitely interested!

Ludedude

Following...

roadtalontsi

nothing wrong with those temps, they would be considered normal operating temps. There is a thermostat in the block, so you can put all the coolers in the world on it and it wont make a difference for normal daily driving. The 440 package is for roadcourse/track use. Not putting around town. If you aren't tracking it you are wasting money as the cooling system is more than adequate.

BLKROKT

Agree. For the record my oil temps typically run 215-221 while cruising with the 44O kit. On track they never go above 258 now vs as high as 286 before.

Jasonoff

That will be my OE cooler benchmark. I wonder how much better it will be with the AC condenser removed?

Either way, this cooler would still benefit.

BLKROKT

It won’t be any better. It’s not an airflow issue. It just is what it is with the stock unit capacity-wise.

Phil1305

well that's good to know thats normal temp range, but the issue is I go on short back road blast and see 245-250 on just a back road interval, not even a track yet. Plus in the very near future I pan on going weistec stage 3 so supporting mods are a must!

And I guess the given temps are normal, I would feel better with more than enough capacity to bring temps back down from spirited or track driving. Also I wish I could say I put around in this thing but I don't drive it much as I beat the **** out of it every time I do drive it!

SRG_C63

I totally agree with you! Temperatures from 100 -110 degrees Celsius are absolutely no problem for the engine.

However, the oil cooler brings the temperatures down by 3-6 degrees celsius in normal driving. So you should not expect miracles in normal driving.

But there is a huge difference once the temperatures are up. Some C63 owners here in Germany have already used an almost identical oil cooler and in really hard driving at high outside temperatures they didn't get above 125 degrees celsius. With the air ducting the cooler is cooled much more, especially in slow passages. This gives you another 2-3 degrees celsius.

I just got back from the garage. The oil cooler's installed.

Instructions:
1. remove the wheel arch liners
2. remove the bumper



3. drain oil from the radiator



4. remove cooler
5. Install the new cooler with one screw on each side and check how it is seated.
It is possible that the fixing points are shifted by 1-2mm because they are handmade parts. But this is no problem. Simply drill the holders with a drill machine by 1-2mm




(perfect fitment behind the oil cooler)

6. then insert the radiator and screw it tight.





7. insert the oil line and screw it tight
8. drink a beer

One thing is different from the original oil cooler. The oil drain plug is now at the bottom and no longer on the side.
When the oil drain plug is down, you have to drill a small hole in the lower base plate. This has the advantage that you can now make an oil change without disassembling the bottom plate.




However, the manufacturer could also install the oil drain plug sideways. I will not use the rear mounting points anymore. So there will be space again. It depends on whether you want a small hole in the floor plate or not.

I have tested some things in the workshop today and will use aluminium air fins in the bottom plate. After 2 hours testing, this is the best and cheapest variant. The air is sucked much more strongly out of the engine compartment by these small air ducts.




Air comes from front and is pressed down at this 45 degree angle, when air now passes this angle, negative pressure comes up and air inside of engine is sucked out The Black Series has this built in similarly, but in plastic.
The original holes have caused too many twists and turns during testing today. So this will also be a very good and cheap improvement.
The front air duct will look exactly like the original. Only bigger. However, the air in the back will not be immediately led down again. Because of the size of the cooler, I use the Venturi effect on the base plate to suck the air behind the cooler by negative pressure. There is absolutely no problem with the water cooler or the air conditioning cooler.

The air duct will be ready and installed Thursday or Friday