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Everything completely installed, tested and approved.
No more temperature problems! The temperatures are comparable to the temperatures from the 44O Package.
I have now put the cooler on eBay. We don't need to make a group purchase anymore. The manufacturer was very nice and will now offer this price for single coolers as well.
May I post the eBay link here?
If not, please delete it.
does that kit include everything needed for install or is it just the duct and cooler?
In addition to the oil cooler and the air duct, you will receive four M6 screws for mounting the front air duct and two new M5 screws for the oil line.
I have one radiator left. The next ones will be ready for ordering in about 2 weeks.
If there are any further questions, you can also send me a private message.
It won’t be any better. It’s not an airflow issue. It just is what it is with the stock unit capacity-wise.
I am hung up on this comment. From what I have been reading it is BOTH an airflow and size issue.
Directly behind the OEM center oil cooler is the ac condenser and radiator. Both of which need air to flow through them to function BUT also reduce overall flow for anything in front of it.
If you remove a layer, the overall flow will increase slightly. The whole idea why the design in this thread works, is because of the angle the cooler is on allowing for a better exit path. Same thing for the 44O kit when it comes to the center cooler. It is completely horizontal redirecting airflow through the cooler down under the car.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Which one do you think flows more air cfm:
1) a totally horizontal flat-lying cooler with zero direct airflow on it (yes, I understand that the little rubber flap creates a mildly low-pressure area underneath)
2) a vertical standing cooler getting direct airflow right on it's surface at xxx mph at all times, which happens to be in front of two other coolers also getting whatever air is coming out the back of it
Don't over think this. It's the cooler more than the positioning.
Which one do you think flows more air cfm:
1) a totally horizontal flat-lying cooler with zero direct airflow on it (yes, I understand that the little rubber flap creates a mildly low-pressure area underneath)
2) a vertical standing cooler getting direct airflow right on it's surface at xxx mph at all times, which happens to be in front of two other coolers also getting whatever air is coming out the back of it
Don't over think this. It's the cooler more than the positioning.
Too many variables at play. It can be either 1 or 2.
Why did the FMU unit apparently fail then? Still can't find any info about it flopping though.
Fluid dynamics is a complicated beast. You have to overthink it.
SRG_C63, did you try mounting your cooler directly to the bumper support so it's right up front and center inside the bumper cover opening like below?
Don't over think this. It's the cooler more than the positioning.
I totally agree with you.
You don't need to remove any radiators. The car has no problems with the water temperature or with the functioning of the air conditioning. This is a waste of time.
Originally Posted by Jasonoff
Why did the FMU unit apparently fail then? Still can't find any info about it flopping though.
Fluid dynamics is a complicated beast. You have to overthink it.
SRG_C63, did you try mounting your cooler directly to the bumper support so it's right up front and center inside the bumper cover opening like below?
The FMU cooler is simply much too thick. The best cooler is as thin as possible and as high and wide as possible.
However, since this is not possible in modern cars, the radiators have to be a thicker and smaller. Any cooler thicker than 50mm will not work efficiently. I got this statement from the radiator manufacturer.
Additionally it could be that the cooling cores from the FMU cooler were of bad quality. But I am not sure about that.
If I had built the cooler like on the pictures, it would have cost much more.
Compared to the 44O kit, my radiator has the same cooling surface in combination with the original wheel arch cooler.
What you could do additionally is to install the SLS wheel arch cooler. This fits plug and play and costs about 1500$ in addition to my front radiator.
Then you have the largest cooling surface you can get on this car without major modifications and a better self made 44O Kit.
Since I know the problem that a new product causes skepticism, I would like to give a discount to the first person from this forum who buys the cooler.
In return, this one should give an absolutely independent field report about it.
You know it? When you've designed something on the car and now you want to share it with the world?
That's how I feel.
I know that this cooler works, but of course I can tell you a lot. That's exactly why I offer this discount to the first one. I am simply an enthusiastic C63 owner and would like to help you with my cooler.
Hey man. No sooner have I stopped spending money on my project, I see this and now feel it’s essential, especially with a supercharged motor. Under bonnet temperatures have always been an issue and I think this would be an important upgrade for me, including those splash shield ducts, if for nothing than overall health, but more so longevity of hard driving in the Summer months here in the UK.
When my car is back from having some work done, I would be happy to try your cooler out. Is it easily installed on a driveway? I’m handy with the tools but I want to know whether it’s something I can swap on in a weekend at my house or if I need to get ramp space.
When my car is back from having some work done, I would be happy to try your cooler out. Is it easily installed on a driveway? I’m handy with the tools but I want to know whether it’s something I can swap on in a weekend at my house or if I need to get ramp space.
You can mount the oil cooler yourself at home. You don't need a lift. You don't need a weekend for that either. You may need 2-3 hours and a few beers at home. That's it.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by SRG_C63
I would also advise anyone who drives on the track to remove the fan in the wheel arch.
The fan massively disturbs the air flow and is only good for +35 degrees Celsius in city traffic.
In addition, the Black Series and the 44O Package don't have one either.
With my radiator you have the same cooling surface as with the 44O Package. Therefore it should be removed.
Looking good!
For the record, the 44O kit also replaces the wheel arch cooler with a much bigger unit which doesn’t need that fan. I agree that for track driving that fan’s not ideal, but I’d probably keep it in for the stock cooler.
For the record, the 44O kit also replaces the wheel arch cooler with a much bigger unit which doesn’t need that fan. I agree that for track driving that fan’s not ideal, but I’d probably keep it in for the stock cooler.
Thanks!
I know, there is also the cooler from the SLS. I mean it like this: The area of my oil cooler in combination with the original cooler is the same as the area with the BS cooler and the SLS cooler (44O package).
This is because the BS front radiator is smaller than mine and so the difference in size of the wheel arch radiator is compensated. This results in the same cooling surface. Therefore I removed the fan, because according to Mercedes and the 44O package this cooling surface is probably sufficient, even without a fan.
Even though I don't track mine this is very interesting.
Seeing your oil never go over 99C during that lap is a real eye opener.
Mine does 105-112C just driving around the streets.
Are those lower plates you attached to your undertray included with the cooler and front duct on eBay?
Even though I don't track mine this is very interesting.
Seeing your oil never go over 99C during that lap is a real eye opener.
Mine does 105-112C just driving around the streets.
Are those lower plates you attached to your undertray included with the cooler and front duct on eBay?
Yes! Upper and under ducting is included.
Please remember that I have a PreFacelift. A friend of mine who was with me that day had the cooler on a 13' 507 Coupe and had a maximum oil temperature of 107 degrees Celsius. We always drove together across the ring at the same speed. So the facelift model runs a bit higher, but of course no comparison to the original cooler. He said that he's usually at 129 degrees Celsius after a round and was so happy, that he gave me a kiss on the cheek after the round.
02-15-2020, 02:55 PM
