m156 rebuild
long story short, injector stuck open and washed out the cylinder leading to a bent connecting rod, so cutting to the chase I'm in the process of putting it back together just seam to not be able to find the torque specs for the bottom end assembly if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be most helpful.
thank you
and the car only had 28000 miles which is a complete buzzkill along with the **** response from mbusa lost any confidence I had in the brand
nope bone stock, they didn’t cover it as it was out of warranty, funny thing is the injector failure is a common failure among these cars but mbusa does nothing about it, and there offer from consumer affairs was 1000 dollar credit on a new car and 500 on CPO and pretty much deemed my c63 worthless definitely killed any belief I had in mercedes but the work is pretty much all done just waiting for some misc bolts to show up
nope bone stock, they didn’t cover it as it was out of warranty, funny thing is the injector failure is a common failure among these cars but mbusa does nothing about it, and there offer from consumer affairs was 1000 dollar credit on a new car and 500 on CPO and pretty much deemed my c63 worthless definitely killed any belief I had in mercedes but the work is pretty much all done just waiting for some misc bolts to show up
In a perfect world, yes, they should try and help the consumer out for a known/common issue that happens. But ****, look at the Takata air bags. Most companies don't a give a crap about peoples safety.
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Are you rebuilding it yourself? or having a shop do it? Any upgrades that you are doing or keep it stock. Any pics to share of the rebuilt especially showing the damaged parts? Save your receipts, you never know. I had a nice check come in from Audi due to the famous sludge issue on my B6 A4.
did the work myself with one of my buddies, nahh kept it stock, just wanted to get it back on the road so I can get rid of it, here the only pic I took so far I’ll get more once I’m back at my shop
surprisingly everything else was in good shape not even a scratch on the walls which was confusing as hell, everything went to a machine shop all it needed was valve seals on the drivers bank, and of course new gaskets and hardware guess I got lucky
Long story short as possible, the dual mass flywheel on my TDi 6MT VW Golf failed, and produced symptoms similar to that of a failing/leaking clutch slave cylinder.
VW declined to warranty the flywheel because the dealer decided that the cause of the problem was that the clutch had worn out. Well, the clutch wore out because the flywheel failed, and would never disengage all the way.
Being a machinist, I put the flywheel on the CMM and measured how far out of whack the wear surface was, which could only have been caused by a failed dual mass medium. Still made no difference.
VW killed a 50+ year family loyalty to their brand over an $800 flywheel.
Meanwhile, I am going to order a set of injectors for my 72kmi C63.
Edit:
The entire reason I came here was to wonder if the cylinder wall suffered any damage.
If so, the block may be a total loss, as the cylinder walls are AluSil if I’m not mistaken. Basically, the cylinder walls are comprised of aluminum that is sintered(sp?) with silicon carbide for wear resistance. In other words, they cannot be sleeved easily. Machining them can be very expensive as they need to be ground, because the carbide is too hard to cut with conventional means.
Edit(again):
I once had an FSi V8 Audi S5 come in that “needed a starter.” It had actually had an injector stuck open and it hydrolocked.
Last edited by The Machinist; Nov 25, 2020 at 12:27 PM.
Long story short as possible, the dual mass flywheel on my TDi 6MT VW Golf failed, and produced symptoms similar to that of a failing/leaking clutch slave cylinder.
VW declined to warranty the flywheel because the dealer decided that the cause of the problem was that the clutch had worn out. Well, the clutch wore out because the flywheel failed, and would never disengage all the way.
Being a machinist, I put the flywheel on the CMM and measured how far out of whack the wear surface was, which could only have been caused by a failed dual mass medium. Still made no difference.
VW killed a 50+ year family loyalty to their brand over an $800 flywheel.
Meanwhile, I am going to order a set of injectors for my 72kmi C63.
Edit:
The entire reason I came here was to wonder if the cylinder wall suffered any damage.
If so, the block may be a total loss, as the cylinder walls are AluSil if I’m not mistaken. Basically, the cylinder walls are comprised of aluminum that is sintered(sp?) with silicon carbide for wear resistance. In other words, they cannot be sleeved easily. Machining them can be very expensive as they need to be ground, because the carbide is too hard to cut with conventional means.
Edit(again):
I once had an FSi V8 Audi S5 come in that “needed a starter.” It had actually had an injector stuck open and it hydrolocked.[/QUOTE
alot of the time it’s the fault of the dealer and which information they choose to disclose to the manufacturer, like in my case I was told I had a compromised block and it was no salvageable, on top of that there tech got there compression tool stuck in the cylinder head, But none the less I’m sorry to hear about your vw being a big vw guy myself, but to my suprise there was no damage to the walls, like not a single blemish I felt like I won the lottery but still had everything checked by a machine shop
Long story short as possible, the dual mass flywheel on my TDi 6MT VW Golf failed, and produced symptoms similar to that of a failing/leaking clutch slave cylinder.
VW declined to warranty the flywheel because the dealer decided that the cause of the problem was that the clutch had worn out. Well, the clutch wore out because the flywheel failed, and would never disengage all the way.
Being a machinist, I put the flywheel on the CMM and measured how far out of whack the wear surface was, which could only have been caused by a failed dual mass medium. Still made no difference.
VW killed a 50+ year family loyalty to their brand over an $800 flywheel.
Meanwhile, I am going to order a set of injectors for my 72kmi C63.
Edit:
The entire reason I came here was to wonder if the cylinder wall suffered any damage.
If so, the block may be a total loss, as the cylinder walls are AluSil if I’m not mistaken. Basically, the cylinder walls are comprised of aluminum that is sintered(sp?) with silicon carbide for wear resistance. In other words, they cannot be sleeved easily. Machining them can be very expensive as they need to be ground, because the carbide is too hard to cut with conventional means.
Edit(again):
I once had an FSi V8 Audi S5 come in that “needed a starter.” It had actually had an injector stuck open and it hydrolocked.[/QUOTE
alot of the time it’s the fault of the dealer and which information they choose to disclose to the manufacturer, like in my case I was told I had a compromised block and it was no salvageable, on top of that there tech got there compression tool stuck in the cylinder head, But none the less I’m sorry to hear about your vw being a big vw guy myself, but to my suprise there was no damage to the walls, like not a single blemish I felt like I won the lottery but still had everything checked by a machine shop
He had it towed to the shop I was working at, at the time, for a second opinion with a starter that he had purchased from the internet.
He was relieved to know that it didn’t need a starter, but shocked when I told him that I would not guarantee the repair unless he replaced all 8 injectors. At the time those FSi injectors were like $70 a pop.








