Slow_C63’s Scene 2 - Action
#76
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
Not much to share, except that parts are on the way. Big thanks to Peter who shared his knowledge and experience on this kit and running it on M156.
the fuel Cell is getting powder coated which may delay the instal. Should be exciting.plan is to spray 150 with stand alone C16.
PS, all jokes aside, I’m in the mood for another long block that I’m looking to build down the road. Message me if anything comes across. I’m definitely not looking to spend an arm and a leg for a block that will get thorn apart anyways.
1. Does anyone have a NO refilling station at their home? I’m thinking of building one for the times to come.
2. Where does everyone get their C16 ordered from?
3. I plan to run my stock 18 inch rim with a 285/40 tire. Any recommendations on the tire?
the fuel Cell is getting powder coated which may delay the instal. Should be exciting.plan is to spray 150 with stand alone C16.
PS, all jokes aside, I’m in the mood for another long block that I’m looking to build down the road. Message me if anything comes across. I’m definitely not looking to spend an arm and a leg for a block that will get thorn apart anyways.
1. Does anyone have a NO refilling station at their home? I’m thinking of building one for the times to come.
2. Where does everyone get their C16 ordered from?
3. I plan to run my stock 18 inch rim with a 285/40 tire. Any recommendations on the tire?
Last edited by Slow_c63; 01-20-2022 at 09:08 AM.
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phxcars (01-20-2022)
#79
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
Sneak peak of de-chrome. I decided to half way dechrome the grill, leaving the single fin in chrome.
Going for that Panda look.
Side marker is way too dark in the picture compared to irl.
Last edited by Slow_c63; 01-26-2022 at 12:34 PM.
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#81
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I left the rear emblems in chrome until I order black ones. Side emblems were also untouched. I didn’t want to paint them, and wrapping them would have been a headache due to thickness of the emblem.
Are there any vendors that may sell these in black? I’m looking for oem/factory in black only.
Here are few more pictures. I think wheels now need to be redone in some sort of dark gunmetal color.
proposed new look,
Last edited by Slow_c63; 01-27-2022 at 08:22 AM.
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#86
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Small delay on the nitrous. I have to exchange the short neck bottle for a long neck bottle to be able to fit the bottle opener.
We just happen to have another bottle from another customers with the longer neck to test fit and it does. Very nicely.
There is plenty of wiring left to do so it shouldn’t delay the instal much. (PS, I do no recommend an amateur doing this instal by themselves)
Yesterday I also received the A/F gauge setup. Should help keep an eye on things.
The bottle which I need. (Setup from another customer)
Yes!
We just happen to have another bottle from another customers with the longer neck to test fit and it does. Very nicely.
There is plenty of wiring left to do so it shouldn’t delay the instal much. (PS, I do no recommend an amateur doing this instal by themselves)
Yesterday I also received the A/F gauge setup. Should help keep an eye on things.
The bottle which I need. (Setup from another customer)
Yes!
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#88
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that bad boy was returned. Now I have a brand nee e85 gauge setup for sale if anyone needs it.
the A/F will most likely go left of the center display. I have to pop that cover off to see whats behind it before cutting into it.
Last edited by Slow_c63; 02-05-2022 at 04:22 AM.
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#90
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Small Update,
I have not played with the car since we did the nitrous. Kinda just sat as my time was dedicated elsewhere.
I’m currently wrapping up my setup,
I’ve decided to put back the resonator. I was previously pretty much straight piped to the mufflers. While I LOVED WOT pulls, I did not enjoy the alight drone and the rasp at low RPM.
Current exhaust setup,
MBH LTH, Mids, X pipe, Stock Res, Stock Mufflers.
I’m also installing dual wideband as I write this. This will help me keep an eye on things especially when I start spraying.
Some pics,
Stock resonator put back in.
Welded shut.
I have not played with the car since we did the nitrous. Kinda just sat as my time was dedicated elsewhere.
I’m currently wrapping up my setup,
I’ve decided to put back the resonator. I was previously pretty much straight piped to the mufflers. While I LOVED WOT pulls, I did not enjoy the alight drone and the rasp at low RPM.
Current exhaust setup,
MBH LTH, Mids, X pipe, Stock Res, Stock Mufflers.
I’m also installing dual wideband as I write this. This will help me keep an eye on things especially when I start spraying.
Some pics,
Stock resonator put back in.
Welded shut.
#91
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Finally finiahed the A/F dualband. After ordering multiple gauge pods I decided not to use any of them. Instead, I found this neat spot next to the screen that was just hallow in the rear.
The gauge can easily be removed by sliding the panel, which gives you access to wiring.
here is a Youtube video of how it come out,
https://youtube.com/shorts/sAhr8m7nKbM?feature=share
some crappy pics,
The gauge can easily be removed by sliding the panel, which gives you access to wiring.
here is a Youtube video of how it come out,
https://youtube.com/shorts/sAhr8m7nKbM?feature=share
some crappy pics,
Last edited by Slow_c63; 05-09-2022 at 07:48 AM.
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#92
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I would like to add that the 2-1 shifts become abrupt again, and getting off the lane at a light was a headache.
Everyone I spoke to, all the shops, they all had similar feedback: “That’s how MCT vehicles are”.
I did brake flush, twice, since my brakes were sticking, especially the rears. That didn’t help. The rears at a stop would drag for 1-3 seconds before I could leave the line. And If I got on the throttle the car would over rev causing jerking forward/backwards. Breaking your neck and your passenger’s.
So I started focusing on why this was happening. LONG STORY SHORT, I finally FIXED my problem after dealing with this for some time.
Solution: It was my E-brake that was causing all of this. The E-brake would disengage, or so I thought. Until yesterday when I used my hand to check if there is any travel in the E-Brake pedal once I disengaged it with the lever by the steering wheel. To my shock the E-Brake Pedal moved almost an inch upward.
Car feels like new again. I’ve literally been all smiles since yesterday. I can’t believe it was something so simple that multiple shops missed, including me.
Car shifts 2-1 perfectly now, as I drive in Manual mode. I can’t even tell that the car shifted 2-1 at times how smooth it is now. Leaving the line no longer creates a drag which makes the car so enjoyable now.
My experience with this problem ends here.
Everyone I spoke to, all the shops, they all had similar feedback: “That’s how MCT vehicles are”.
I did brake flush, twice, since my brakes were sticking, especially the rears. That didn’t help. The rears at a stop would drag for 1-3 seconds before I could leave the line. And If I got on the throttle the car would over rev causing jerking forward/backwards. Breaking your neck and your passenger’s.
So I started focusing on why this was happening. LONG STORY SHORT, I finally FIXED my problem after dealing with this for some time.
Solution: It was my E-brake that was causing all of this. The E-brake would disengage, or so I thought. Until yesterday when I used my hand to check if there is any travel in the E-Brake pedal once I disengaged it with the lever by the steering wheel. To my shock the E-Brake Pedal moved almost an inch upward.
Car feels like new again. I’ve literally been all smiles since yesterday. I can’t believe it was something so simple that multiple shops missed, including me.
Car shifts 2-1 perfectly now, as I drive in Manual mode. I can’t even tell that the car shifted 2-1 at times how smooth it is now. Leaving the line no longer creates a drag which makes the car so enjoyable now.
My experience with this problem ends here.
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#93
I would like to add that the 2-1 shifts become abrupt again, and getting off the lane at a light was a headache.
Everyone I spoke to, all the shops, they all had similar feedback: “That’s how MCT vehicles are”.
I did brake flush, twice, since my brakes were sticking, especially the rears. That didn’t help. The rears at a stop would drag for 1-3 seconds before I could leave the line. And If I got on the throttle the car would over rev causing jerking forward/backwards. Breaking your neck and your passenger’s.
So I started focusing on why this was happening. LONG STORY SHORT, I finally FIXED my problem after dealing with this for some time.
Solution: It was my E-brake that was causing all of this. The E-brake would disengage, or so I thought. Until yesterday when I used my hand to check if there is any travel in the E-Brake pedal once I disengaged it with the lever by the steering wheel. To my shock the E-Brake Pedal moved almost an inch upward.
Car feels like new again. I’ve literally been all smiles since yesterday. I can’t believe it was something so simple that multiple shops missed, including me.
Car shifts 2-1 perfectly now, as I drive in Manual mode. I can’t even tell that the car shifted 2-1 at times how smooth it is now. Leaving the line no longer creates a drag which makes the car so enjoyable now.
My experience with this problem ends here.
Everyone I spoke to, all the shops, they all had similar feedback: “That’s how MCT vehicles are”.
I did brake flush, twice, since my brakes were sticking, especially the rears. That didn’t help. The rears at a stop would drag for 1-3 seconds before I could leave the line. And If I got on the throttle the car would over rev causing jerking forward/backwards. Breaking your neck and your passenger’s.
So I started focusing on why this was happening. LONG STORY SHORT, I finally FIXED my problem after dealing with this for some time.
Solution: It was my E-brake that was causing all of this. The E-brake would disengage, or so I thought. Until yesterday when I used my hand to check if there is any travel in the E-Brake pedal once I disengaged it with the lever by the steering wheel. To my shock the E-Brake Pedal moved almost an inch upward.
Car feels like new again. I’ve literally been all smiles since yesterday. I can’t believe it was something so simple that multiple shops missed, including me.
Car shifts 2-1 perfectly now, as I drive in Manual mode. I can’t even tell that the car shifted 2-1 at times how smooth it is now. Leaving the line no longer creates a drag which makes the car so enjoyable now.
My experience with this problem ends here.
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Slow_c63 (01-25-2023)
#94
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
I cant explain how happy I ak that I’m finally able to drive the car how it was when I first got it. Especially with the mods, maintenance and other things I did to it.
This is prime example of how small things can make such a huge impact.
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Slow_c63 (01-25-2023)
#96
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I’m not sure how the E-Brake is disengaged in the early C63, but in 2013 we have 2 levers. One is the foot lever/pedal to engage it, and another hand held lever that you use it to disengage it. The disengaging partion was/is not disengaging the E-Brake to 100%.
(Best way to imagine it is to think of the old school E-Brake that we used to pull upwards. Now imagine if every time you lowered the E-Brake you left it at 95% disengaged. The sensor tells you its 100% disengaged but in reality it’s not) - I hope that was a good explanation.
I’ve driven the car for about 200 miles since yesterday, for no good reason other than how happy I was to drive it without the hiccups. I will update here if I ever end up replacing any components. I’m just glad that A) Symptoms are gone and B) If they return I’ll know what it is and replace parts then.
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