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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Don’t hold your breath on cams but looks like they are getting closer to a good option, it looked good a couple years ago too then just did OEM cams in mine and has been 2 years now and still no option but it feels a lot closer.
Waiting on the WIS to download. I tried taking the fuel rail off.
bolt is not spinning freely of the line making it almost impossible to remove, the other end of the line is seized and corroded.
In addition to this, one of each of the bolts has been stripped almost methodically ie one on the fuel one on the IM one on the valve cover, cam adjuster cover etc
Also the driver side valve cover bolt on the bottom rear
on reinstall, how the hell am I supposed to re-torque that??????
Overall so far there’s nothing that seems beyond me besides that driver side bolt. I haven’t been able to devote as much time to this as I would have hoped and The tops of the bolts being stripped out is really starting to take a toll from a time perspective. Fortunately I have new bolts for everything so it’s I’m not a big deal. But it still really sucks.
Don’t hold your breath on cams but looks like they are getting closer to a good option, it looked good a couple years ago too then just did OEM cams in mine and has been 2 years now and still no option but it feels a lot closer.
the tips of the nozzles are still clean should I take them and have them tested or just throw them away and buy new ones?
WOW. JUST WOW. You should have seen mine when I pulled them out. Yours look pretty much brand new.
the problem with my car, I think, was the previous owner. He had it for 4 years and it mainly sat parked outside. I believe he put up like 6k miles in 4 years. So the car wasn't achieving the temps to burn off excess material. Drive your cars people!!!
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by Xavier Smith II
Waiting on the WIS to download. I tried taking the fuel rail off.
bolt is not spinning freely of the line making it almost impossible to remove, the other end of the line is seized and corroded.
In addition to this, one of each of the bolts has been stripped almost methodically ie one on the fuel one on the IM one on the valve cover, cam adjuster cover etc
Not sure if you were able to get it downloaded, if not these will help.
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by Xavier Smith II
Also the driver side valve cover bolt on the bottom rear
on reinstall, how the hell am I supposed to re-torque that??????
Overall so far there’s nothing that seems beyond me besides that driver side bolt. I haven’t been able to devote as much time to this as I would have hoped and The tops of the bolts being stripped out is really starting to take a toll from a time perspective. Fortunately I have new bolts for everything so it’s I’m not a big deal. But it still really sucks.
So far if you can turn a wrench you are golden.
It is a function of tools, that one is a *****, hardest thing in my book on the whole procedure is that one valve cover bolt - after having it on and off a few times, I have found that a 1/4 drive torx bit and a good selection of 1/4 drive extensions and a universal joint will get to it.
Probably not. That's a 2009 and his deets say a 2010.
You'd be amazed how many people don't know what year their car really is.
Looks like he has a different vin - GREAT NEWS FOR HIM. The one I posted was from a terrible used car lot that rips buyers and repair shops off. I feel sorry for whoever ended up with it.
roughly 7K+ in terms of wiring damage has been inflicted, rabbits are mean. I attached some of the damage inflicted in the engine bay but the rest was up under the dash.
I have located a 77K mile motor for $8500 that I ordered that I’m going to swap in or do SOMETHING with. It’s in Cincinnati rn seems like the west coast isn’t the only place that has extremely slow shipping/ports.
I (mechanic/insurance) thought the block was cracked in I believed cylinder number 3, and they were going to total the car out (extremely long story that got the car pulled from the insurance preferred shop to a MB specialist) but the engine seems to be fine.
The headbolts + Gaskets were 100% fine for anyone curious about the OG Headbolt longevity, it still isn’t something that I recommend doing, just replace them.
Now the car needs a nice and deep cleaning.
ECU cable Coolant line Thermostat Cable Passenger side Injector/Spark
It is a function of tools, that one is a *****, hardest thing in my book on the whole procedure is that one valve cover bolt - after having it on and off a few times, I have found that a 1/4 drive torx bit and a good selection of 1/4 drive extensions and a universal joint will get to it.
Pulling the heads is 100% easier than those bolts.
Also if you are like me and not super built, the heads aren’t that Heavy but I still two manned it because I was worried that I would drop the head either against the block or on the ground and damage the mating surface.
07-23-2021, 04:34 PM
