For the life of several shops around where I live (including dealer), they cannot get my car to align up front. Specifically, it's -3.x camber on both sides. Multiple reputable shops just can't get it to factory spec. This issue emerged because I recently went through a front set of PS4s in around 6K miles. Although I'm not trying to get 50k out of them, I'd at least like more than a season. So, we're hunting for a solution and would appreciate advice here.

Before I got the car, it was in a front end accident where it went over a curb, likely at a high rate of speed (it was stolen). Multiple body shops have looked at it and concluded there is no frame damage or anything like that. However, the consensus seems to be that we trouble shoot by going with a new suspension, espc. given the history of the car. I'm fine with that plan, especially given the 2 good, smart, local shops I trust are saying this is the best option.

So: to replace the current suspension (stock since new) with OEM parts, local shop quoted $3400. Labor is $800 of that fee.

Question: If I upgrade and go with KW v3s, for example, can I achieve something close to stock ride height and something south of -1.5 camber? At the max, it appears the drop for KW v3s is .2 inches, or close to it.

My main objective is to (try to) solve my alignment issues, but if the price delta between stock and the KWs--which check in around $3k--is only $400, and I have just as good a chance to fix the issue, I'd go with the upgrade. What I'm curious about is whether those running KWs on a higher ride height setting still see excessive tire wear (I know, it's an AMG) and have alignment problems. I don't track the car so there's no ancillary benefit there.

I have come across helpful threads--like this pretty epic one--describing proper settings, etc., but didn't see a lot on alignment.

Appreciate any insight on this decision .

 

Kws are the way to go. Get a set of camber plates too if you want to get the camber out. The factory suspension has very little adjustability in it. I’m going kw club sports soon as they come with a camber plate.

 

where are you located? I have the stock suspension out of my 2015 507 coupe that was taken out late last year with only 5000 miles on the car. Not sure if it is any upgrade from your 2013
but it's as low mileage as you are going to find for sure
PM me if you are interested

 

stock is going to be -1.40 to -2 . And that's 1 degree 40 minutes... aka -1 2/3 degree to -2 degree. South of -1.30 or 1 1/2 degree will not be with oem stock stuff. Coil overs will not benefit you other than performance aspect, infact they will make your numbers harder to achieve. The only parts you should be considering are struts and knuckles. Bent thrust arms, or lower control arms will cause less negative camber. If struts and knuckles dont resolve the issue its strut mount / frame issue. Are you sure it doesn't have lowering spring already? it's unusual for both sides to match from damaged parts.

 

Reason shops / dealers cannot get car back into alignment is because OEM “there is nothing front or rear to adjust”.

Dealers often quoted, re assuring “FULL FRONT & REAR 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT” is just basic “TOE” only (directional) adjustment. New car industry's best kept secret.

It's all to do with cost savings and the ever increasing speed of auto assembly lines.

We therefore manufacture a “TOTAL SYSTEM” for all W204 including AMG and Black Series.

Priced right – and providing the biggest, quickest and strongest adjustment systems.



FRONT CAMBER (ONLY) #502616-1G $295 (Both Sides)
- less then the cost of one hi performance tire ! (Four times the adjustment range of the inaccurate one offset position fluted bolts). Unique patented design provides (like all KMAC bush kits) precise single wrench adjustment, accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack. Bush extraction tool included allowing fitment on car – without need for arm removal.



FRONT CAMBER (& CASTER) #502616K $480 (Both Sides)
The precisely adjustable Caster bushes allows to compensate accurately for Camber change and correctly resolve steering pull. Unlike the soft rubber, oil and air voided OEM bushes KMAC are Monoball / 2 Axis. Significantly improving brake and steering response. With more then twice the load bearing, impact area of spherical bearings that with their wafer thin Teflon liners soon pound out.



IF YOUR REALLY SERIOUS (TRACK DAYS / COMPETITION):
Also manufacture “Front Replacement Strut Tops).

Unique KMAC patented design provides the biggest and quickest adjustment system (both Camber and Caster). Extra 3º's Neg. 1.5º's Pos. Accurate under load from engine bay (No Mods or disassembly required)

STAGE 2 (STREET/RACE) #503016-2L $545 (Both Sides)
STAGE 3 (FULL RACE) #503016-3L $545 (Both Sides)
Very highest aircraft 7075 grade alloy (not steel or soft billet alloy). Massive H/Duty bearings including separate thrust bearings for steering loads. Fit with OEM diameter springs or all popular brands of coil overs.



REAR SUSPENSION:

CAMBER (& EXTRA TOE to compensate) #502126K $480 (Both Sides)
Replacing lower arm inner bushes. Precise single wrench adjustment. Bush extraction tool included. Allowing fitment without arm removal.

UPPER CAMBER ARMS (& EXTRA TOE to compensate) #502226-1M $595 (Both Sides)
Not extruded aluminum but high strength forged alloy same as OEM.

NOTE: To resolve premature inner edge tire wear lower arm adjustment retains important clearance top of tire to outer fender. Upper arm reduces this clearance to outer fender.

See Website / Mercedes Catalog re uprated rear multi link bush kits, uprated rear sub frame bushes, etc.

Sales/Tech 24/7 1888 847 9099

Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !

 

I might be giving you a call/email, K-Mac. Sounds like this would be just what I need if new struts don't do the trick.

 

Much appreciated. Sacrificing the objective in the first place was part of my worry with an upgrade--the same thing happened with my B5S4 where I went with an upgraded CO setup and ate through rubber. To your query, I am not sure it does not have lowering springs. The camber on the drivers side is slightly less than -3, but they are in the same neighborhood.

 

Anyone run KW v3s with a KMAC kit? Seems like the best of both worlds...

 

I will be getting KW v3 when my wheels turn up from being manufactured but don’t know what to do about camber at the moment as every thread ive seen the kmac make alot of noise which I don’t want anything squeaking or knocking. I have also seen at least one pretty bad failure from their camber bushes they sell & fittings working their way loose.

The only other option is adjustable arms and all the ones I have seen are bad quality, hit the frame or use bad quality fittings. I think the only option for me at the moment is to pay someone to make custom billet adjustable arms.

 

RE REAR “HI STRENGTH FORGED ALLOY” (SAME AS OEM) UPPER ARMS – CAMBER ADJUSTABLE.

As listed in above post of 31st July for all W204 incl. C63 AMG P/N 502226-1M.

We also include extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber settings.

Re the fittings – at KMAC we have the experience of manufacturing performance bushings longer then anyone else – 1964 !

Designed to outperform often used short life spherical bearings and Delrin type bushings.



REAR LOWER ARM CAMBER ADJUSTERS (AND EXTRA TOE). #502126K

These replace the lower arm inner bushings. Unlike upper arms they are easily accessible and adjust accurately (underload) – single wrench direct on alignment rack.

Also if adjusting to resolve costly, premature, inner edge tire wear (unlike upper arms) they retain important clearance “top of tire to outer fender”.

Since 1964 (57 years) – KMAC has taken on the role of resolving OEM suspension short comings AUDI to VOLVO – yes it does create controversy, mistakes are made.

But we find a whole lot better then alternative merely copying, having unblemished record, sitting back doing nothing flawlessly !

Elon Musk recently echoed Ferdinand Porsche “if you do not make a mistake, you are not really trying”.

Constant, exhaustive “design” and “development” - exact same as the new car industry (they have come a long way since the “T” model).

We're proud looking back that virtually all the major design patents for alignment products have been developed by our company.

So mistakes happen, but knowing the current market out there – we are confident in stating nothing comes close re the important '3' - “Biggest”, “Quickest”, “Strongest” (and noise free) Adjustment Systems !

Kevin

 

Update: going with KMAC front strut mount kit and some hardware for the rear too. Not going to swap out suspension just yet. Hoping to get from -3 to around -1 to keep the front tires around a bit longer. Will report back.

 

Alignment on the 204 will drive you crazy. Even Benz dealership try to steer away from it.

Back to the topic, I was on track with the car, pushed it just a bit too much and steered off.. went over the
tracks corner bumps, onto gravel and grass but luckily did not hit the wall. Was going 110/120kph on a left curve turn.
Turn 10 Losail International Circuit. Car went way over camber etc and eventually (2 months later) found that the Lower Control Arm
P.N 204 330 4911 had been pushed in by something ridiculous, 0.4cm or so that Benz, Pirelli and QTire (Local Big tire dealer) couldnt
adjust the alignment. Eventually gave up and learned to live with it, but someone noticed and told me, got it done $300+ control arm with bushing
light denting back the area with bushing it bolted on and the car aligned right back up.

Have a check there as seeing the car was stolen and went over a pavement. Seems a close situation to mine but not stolen lol

 

Update. I went with the KMAC camber plates and they got the alignment right. Shop complimented their quality several times. Being a Mercedes, though, I've just run into another problem...now the car pulls quite hard to the right.

Here are before and after:



After:


So, the alignment saga continues. Shop thought it was because the worn inside of the tire was causing the pull, but the Michelin only has 400 or so miles on in with the old alignment. There is something weird going on at the front.

 

yep. your car isn't lowered and it started with specs worse than lowered cars. You put adjustable parts on rather than replacing the problem parts.

 

If only it was so easy to identify the "problem parts," I wouldn't be in this situation. But it's all good--the KMAC plates are doing exactly what I wanted them to. Just more troubleshooting that, if we resolve, could be useful for others that find themselves in the same spot.

 

What’s your rear alignment ?

 

Good Q. Nothing stood out here to me as the obvious culprit, though the right rear toe could use a nudge or two right.. And this was the shop before the shop that put the plates in. So this might be worth looking back into.

 

It's rear steering to the left making your car pull right likely amplifying affects from road grade as well.

 

Yeah your front is slightly steering to the right and the rear is to the left which is amplifying the front steering being out slightly. I could try and get the rear as close as possible to dead even side to side. That should do it for you but the front could be tweaked a bit too but it’s not that bad

 

and yes fix the rear toe or is that at maximum adjustment too? you should probably buy some further adjustable toe links to be able to bring it into specs lol.

 

Yes before and after spec sheets show the ability now to be able to adjust Camber has certainly resolved the premature edge tire wear issue. While Caster shows precise even specs.

Now you have adjustability would try backing off the "LH side" Caster say one degree to counter that steering pull.

But do point out as there is only Toe adjustment front and rear OEM we manufacture for (every model Mercedes) rear kits also (Camber and extra Toe adjustable). Then allowing ultimate "full 4 wheel" alignment !



It's all part of a "Total System" when it comes to Front and Rear adjustment (and also "performance" bushings). See Spoiler below.