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for awareness, tunes offered by us at eightysixtuned, do not need any tune adjustment when upgrading to 82mm throttle bodies assuming you do have velocity stacks. we cannot speak to other tuners and their tunes, but ours require zero retuning. this information may help people who are being hesitant in upgrading to 82mm's with their current tunes.
Thanks Barry.
So far so good concerning mine, i was out driving it carefully and listened for noises. i couldn´t notice any problems with drivability so far.
It might have been more responsive thou, can´t really say yet.
Just revving it standing still has more response, that i CAN say,, it´s real peppy now
But that can the new injectors, i did notice before all happened that i had quite large ltft at idle 30%(vacuum leak,gaskets might have leaked and crankcase ventilation hose was cracked, everything's sealed up now)
Fueling curve i figure will selfadjust to the same AFR, but ignition might be needed to map as you can get more torque, and by that need to adjust.
But i´ll do that after the winterhibernation if needed (i´ll log the knocksensors)
Well, i can´t find peace in mind if not taking it apart and checking it thoroughly.
I did NOT find any problems when checking all i was capable of doing from the outside of engine, but,,,, demons been haunting me, i can never trust it until i´ve checked it.
Engine´s coming out!
I have always been like this, if in doubt, take it apart and make sure...
Better spending a small amount of money to make sure, than spend big bucks on new engine because i took a chance.
The connectionrod to begin with.
Need to turn engine upside down and take the pans and girdle off.
Then measure axial play between the rod all the way around, visualinspect the rod for straightness.
If bad i need to replace the rod, and by that take off the heads etc etc.
I have run the engine for about 1 hour after i changed the injectors and the engine is 'burned clean' now(so i did a new compressioncheck).
Can´t hear any sound when running that indicates that something is wrong, but!
When i did the compressioncheck this Saturday i found that compression was slightly off in that cylinder, not much.
195.8psi in that cylinder
And ~210psi in the others
Nothing to worry about if a engine never had any problems, but this one had a problem and THAT cylinder is a little bit weak in compression.
I did also measure from head(plughole) down to piston and couldn´t find any problem, but my measure method was a little bit sketchy.
Got a little bit further yesterday. Upcoming weekend it goes out. Small things to disconnect before that. Was out visiting a friend and borrowed his engine lift. I can say i am lucky, he´s Audi just snapped the crank in his billetblock when making a pull in the dyno.
These swedestacks are for the stock plates?
Might coin this phrase if you don’t mind me ripping it off and I can post it for others to have.
Originally Posted by swedepat
I also got pm´s about asking if i could do more velocitystacks, but i cannot make more than my own needs.
But you can have the 'blueprint', i´m not greedy.
If a company like VRP or something makes a ripoff, it´s a confirmation for me doing good stuff.
Just send me some merch and i´ll be happy
All measurments in metric system.
Well, English isn´t my first language =)
However, now i have done ALL i can do without taking the rod and piston out.
Clip isn't showing it, but after i made the video i took off the cap from the rod and inspected the bearing.
No visuals signs at all of anythings bent or unaligned.
Well,, here i go again saying things are expensive..
A well known mercedes tuner (in the us) are taking 529 dollars for a complete boltkit(oem) to the mains.
In Sweden at dealership oem bolts are 245 dollar.
Yeah,, sometime even a blind chicken can find a corn.
Now i´m just waiting for my mainbolts to show up, should be here late this week.
If so, start bolting it together this weekend.
After that it´s planned to respray the front and right fender as when i was on that holidaytrip to the mountains the tire touched the fender slightly.
The front just need a respray due to some chips and someone has polished through to the primer on a couple of spots.
I looked at xf motorsports video on youtube about these camphasers, he could easily scratch the oem material and the welds were harder.
I have now(at work) tried to see if i was able to scratch mine, but no..
The ones i´ve got seems to be hardened, i also tested with a file to see if i could leave a mark, no go there either.
And,, me doing as i´m always doing, again!
Why not upgrade when having it apart?
And then never think about these again
(as i figure they are a ticking bomb)
And,, these i´m doing myself = freebie
Work in progress. Chromemolly steel. Will heat treat it etc etc. There are material left in purpose to be able to surfacegrind it to correct tolerances after hardening.
Yeah I saw another thread from today where a guy was asking what grade of steel is needed to avoid wearing the pin. What are you using for your plates?
ss2244 is the Swedish name for it.
I haven´t actually given it that much thought as it all depends of the grade of hardening.
ss 2244 is equivalent to 4140 and 4142(us standard)
Read more about it here: https://steelforge.com/aisi-4142/
Finished plate except surface grinding and case hardening. Checking oilpassage, ggod! Checking alignment of bolt holes, good! Checking if locking pin moves freely into hole, good! I have uploaded a small clip on youtube showing it, look down below.
Nice these look stock! The ones available for retail definitely aren’t the same as stock… for a reason.
So if anyone CMM’s the retail version for sale of the plates they won’t show the same specs as stock. “Likely” the reason no one has had issues with theirs using retail lockplates and others are having issues from ones they’ve bought from Russia, Korea, Aus, S. Africa etc that has used a 3D scanner to reverse engineer them.
PVD wear and decrease in friction goes hand in hand. Friction wears components .
Also less friction will make sure you’re in the correct ecu map to make power. Otherwise you will have a lazy cam stuck in reference and not in optimal spots where it’s supposed to be.
I would say there almost no friction at all even in stock ones.
It´s just the pin that hammers out some small particles out of the sintered material, and the ball is rolling.
With a more solid material it isn´t as easy for small chips of metal to break loose.
I will surface harden mine.
And as for friction again. there are play between the plates and the 'star' inside that oil will fill up, so you got almost no friction when engine's got oil pressure.
And key to get oilpressure fast is to never run any low lovel of oil, keep it pinned at top level(on the dipstick)
Did a test yesterday hardening one of the testplates i did.
Worked out just great.
Slightly above RC60 on surface.
Now finish the hardening on the real ones, then off to autoverdi for surface grinding.
I noticed that one of the models possible to buy has wrong surface finish and might cause shearing.
One should have a crisscross pattern to properly lubricate the sides of the 'star',(for the same reason you do the same in cylinders)
09-29-2021, 03:15 PM
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