When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hardened and heattreated, just checked with 600 grit paper if they had warped anything.
I have left some to take away later today(0.4mm) when i rig them to the surfacegrinder, but i was curious after hardening the surface was good, no problems as you can see.
I put the 600 grit on an absolute flat surface (diabas stone) and rubbed the plates against the paper.
And i measured axial inside the phasers, 0.05mm; this divided into 2 will be 0.025mm at each side, well enough for oil to get in there.,
There!, Done! just a small touch to get correct lubrication before install. HRC tested and surface grinded to correct dimensions. Was at my friend who makes connectionrods and drysump pumps for a lot of highend racers on the globe, a lot in the states also. He surfacegrinded the plates, the only thing i didn´t do on these. And cost so far? About 10 bucks in total (for the fuel in my pickup for visiting my friend).
Anyone changed the seals on the triggerwheels?
I noticed there was a little bit of wear on mine, and as Go Team mentions it is really important to get the phasers working correctly i figure i can´t have any unwanted leaks.
Engine is back in, but far from finished as you see.
A little downtime due to i need to order new seals for the triggerwheels, engine is assembled just so any dirt wouldn´t find it´s way into it when i put it back in the car.
But i´ll order them tomorrow(monday)
In the meantime i can mount a lot of small things, i'm also changing transmissionfluid again, just might aswell, as the car is on stands
Anyone changed the seals on the triggerwheels?
I noticed there was a little bit of wear on mine, and as Go Team mentions it is really important to get the phasers working correctly i figure i can´t have any unwanted leaks.
what material are the factory ones? and where can one buy replacements?
Oem the material seems to be very brittle like cast pistonrings, very much alike the sealing rings inside a turbo.
The new ones i don´t know what matrial they are in, they seem to have some coating thou.
I called dealership this morning, can´t be bought separate from the 'bushing'.
I just placed order from Poland, about 1300skr(~140$) complete with shipping(4 complete kits)
Look for a company called 'mehenker'
I’d start with @go team as he actually seems to know what he’s talking about
Have i been wrong anywhere of your knowledge?
Only thing in this debacle i was 'wrong' about was a alignment hole that i just mirrored, my bad but i told you all about it.
I just figure i got a horn in your side since my comment of your carbonwrapped enginecover.
I have been nothing but patient with you, but you keep trying to make fun of me, and that just ends up in me doing the same to you.
Get over it, grow up and be a man!
And a hot tip!
Stay out of my thread and you will be happier, you can´t get rid of me.
so...that was my understanding as well, they're metal. they're like piston rings. but the photo you posted shows them in plastic? or is that painted metal?
so...that was my understanding as well, they're metal. they're like piston rings. but the photo you posted shows them in plastic? or is that painted metal?
I would say it is a coating, mine are on it´s way so i can tell you in a couple of days =)
2010 C63 AMG RIP. 2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road, 2013 C63 coupe
Those rings are most likely made of PTFE (teflon) with a filler like glass or brass.
They seem to be hydraulic wear ring just like in industrial applications.
We'll see tomorrow.
That company also offers regeneration of old ones with 24 month guarantee.
IF the life span is let´s say 25months with daily usage of the car, they will hold up for me about 6years
I only use my car about 4.5-5month a year
And if they become a problem, i´ll make my own rings(in steel)
They are very lightweight and has less tension then oem steel rings.
But the overall outer diam are a little bigger so i figure there are more 'press' on the ring, and thereby creates a good seal, and also the ends are butting up to each other harder.
I´m jiddering in Swedish, But just a video of startup.
I´m talking about the smoke from the headers(some oil)
And later i´m pointing out that the fluid on the floor isn´t from startup.
It´s coolant from when i put the radiators in, and oil from when i changed the seals on the triggerdiscs.
(a red motul oil i had lying around.)
Everything went fine.
Engine feel more sealed up than before as the fillercap really is sucked down
Actually no, just burping it with squeezing the hoses.
And later on when the thermostat had opened i kept rpm at ~2000rpm for a while.
I might have to keep an eye on temp later, but as is for now it seems to work, the heater works and temp is under control, fan starts and shuts off.
Now back to what i was planned to do this winter. The front fender got a small touch from the wheel as i said earlier, fixing that. At the bottom of the doors and at the rear of rear door there was some stone chips(dunno what it is called) At the top of the doors it leaved some marks when i took away the trims. I figured i´ll fix all this in the same run at the paintshop. Almost done.
Finally at paintshop. Season is getting closer, but fuelprice is just insane in Sweden. Soon up against 10 dollar per gallon. I also decided to repaint the wheels(not the ones on pic) They are 'bronze', but i feel that satin black is more suitful to white.
Also, engine so far seems very very ok, no codes no leaks no nothing, running smooth as f**k after injectorchange and having the engine apart for checkup.
02-09-2022, 06:43 AM
