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Naturally, these cars are not going to be identical but he could build a base model GT around the M156 since the m159 is just the better version, but the idea remains that a toned down version is feasible, especially if he is interested in serious/heavy track use.
I'm not questioning his use of the car at all, I was saying why not start with what the Baby Jesus intended? If its the bill, I get it.
I'm not putting a GT car on the road anytime soon either so...I just was curious why he was using this as a base for his track car is all.
MAYBE he could tell me something I don't necessarily know and I could learn something new possibly.
Last edited by GarlicBread; Apr 6, 2022 at 01:40 PM.
Reason: Nuance
The pump ring and rotor show some signs of wear but really not bad considering how long it has been in service. If I didn't do any fluid changes it probably would have been much worse.
Need to find an M16x1.5 plug to use in place of the banjo for the outlet. Will use the inlet and existing hose as a fill port to keep the gutted housing body/bearings cool while it's spinning without load.
I was thinking the main pro for this would be to reduce complexity (get rid of all the PS hydraulics) and make room for a larger transmission cooler up front since the PS cooler would be removed.
As to this particular aspect of the post, the PS cooler doesn't need to be removed to fit a big efficient aux trans cooler right up in the grill for the fresh air flow, though I understand your other reasons for trying your mod. I mounted a large, thick, efficient trans cooler there (not that thin overpriced Vath cooler that goes in series with stock cooler) and there is still a lot of space between the trans cooler and the PS cooler. No trans grumpiness or PS overheating even after 10 sessions in 90°+ heat at Sebring recently. Water temp was stable and unchanged from normal.
Last edited by Dr.Speedfellow; Apr 8, 2022 at 08:14 PM.
As to this particular aspect of the post, the PS cooler doesn't need to be removed to fit a big efficient aux trans cooler right up in the grill for the fresh air flow, though I understand your other reasons for trying your mod. I mounted a large, thick, efficient trans cooler there (not that thin overpriced Vath cooler that goes in series with stock cooler) and there is still a lot of space between the trans cooler and the PS cooler. No trans grumpiness or PS overheating even after 10 sessions in 90°+ heat at Sebring recently. Water temp was stable and unchanged from normal.
Any details on the new cooler? What cooler, mounting, terminations?
I don't have much room, maybe FL is different?
With the PS cooler gone I could use the green box real-estate so my block-off pate can stay put and it's above the bumper beam even though I have since removed some of it.
I was able to use basically the green box real estate you show without any interference and with a couple inches still between back of aux trans cooler and front of PS cooler.
FL might be different idk, my 2015 507 certainly had different interference issues than others with the other cooler upgrade.
Not going to remove any parts but you can see it in there
Last edited by Dr.Speedfellow; Apr 8, 2022 at 09:23 PM.
Gutted pump worked perfect as an idler. The steering was WAY too heavy though. Ordered a new pump (yeah I could have re-assembled but considering it's 12 years old better to put a new one considering the abuse it will take)
Gutted pump worked perfect as an idler. The steering was WAY too heavy though. Ordered a new pump (yeah I could have re-assembled but considering it's 12 years old better to put a new one considering the abuse it will take)
how did you run the steering rack lines? you'd need to bleed out as much fluid out of the rack then run 2 longer lines to a vented breather tank. I'm sure it's still a bit stiff though on r-compound and anything wider than 235mm
how did you run the steering rack lines? you'd need to bleed out as much fluid out of the rack then run 2 longer lines to a vented breather tank. I'm sure it's still a bit stiff though on r-compound and anything wider than 235mm
I just had everything disconnected. Cycled the steering back and forth to evacuate all the fluid from the rack and stuffed paper towel under it to catch anything that may have squirted out during the drive around the block.
With the front tires off the ground I could move the wheel back and forth with one hand by the spoke. There was virtually zero resistance in the rack with it empty.
The problem wasn't that it was just heavy. You couldn't turn the wheel very fast when moving which is critical on the track, it would have been dangerous.
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