ertech

hi guys
doing some maintenance over winter .I toke the intake out to replace gaskets and clean and found a few pieces of piston rings inside .

the history of the car shows a blown engine 50000 miles ago . the guy replaced the short block ,I guess putting his intake back on. is it possible for the car to run great with a broken ring that made it INTO the intake?
Car burns oil at a rate of 1 liter every 2/3 fill up. car is run hard .and I suspect the pcv valve was bad.



thanks guys

roadtalontsi

1 liter every 2/3 fillups even for a track only car is excessive. Motor is done for sure, unless it has a massive leak. sorry for the bad news. Under normal / spirited driving you should see maybe 1L every 7000-10000 miles. MB spec is every 800 miles, but I can tell you if it's doing that the motor has damage internally.

ertech

could the car still run very well?
found 3 types of piston pieces .

swedepat

I would say it is remains from earlier blown engine and a sloppy clean up.
It is quite ordinary that pieces from pistons are playing pingpong inside engine before owner shuts it down.

What you need to check if some of the remains have found their way back into the engine again and scored the liners.

Diabolis

You have at least one cylinder that's damaged. Only car I had that was using a litre of oil per tank of gas had serious cylinder bore scoring, so chances are your engine is shot.

Could the car still run "good"? It depends on your definition of good...assuming that your car made 450hp, if one of the cylinders only delivers 60% power and the other 7 deliver 100% power, you're still looking at 427.5hp... the typical driver can't "feel" anything less than a 10% change in power (or 45hp in this case). The Audi that I had cylinder scoring in ran great (especially considering the two cylinders that were scored were only scored in the bottom 1/3rd of the bores) so it still had full compression / leakdown... it was even producing full power on the dyno.

BalanBro

Compression test and scope each cylinder for scoring. That will give you the answer if it's old or new.

Diabolis

Yup... in my case on the Audi it was a boroscope inspection with the pistons at BDC that revealed the full scope of the damage in the two affected cylinders. Bores were perfect in the top half and compression / leakdown held perfectly.

ertech

hi guys

toke the spark plugs out and they looked perfect.
did a compression test and have a few cylinders at 75psi the others at around 175 . guess I need an engine . any leads please pm me .
thanks

hachiroku

this is bad news and sorry to hear. if you scoped your engine with a boroscope like others mentioned you'd have a better idea of the health of your engine. 75psi is bad and could explain why you're missing some piston rings. is your car tuned? if so, it blew your motor. 75psi is a sign of a motor on its way out. i'd recommend ordering a boroscope on amazon for 20 dollars and see how the top of your pistons look.

BLKROKT

Why even bother looking. No offense, but you’re better off spending your time looking for a new engine. Because that’s what you need right now, sorry.

swedepat

There MIGHT be a cheaper way than buying a new/used engine.
It is to put new steel liners in it(needs other pistonrings thou), OR send away for welding(if needed) and repairing the block with new nicasil coating instead of oem, what is it? alusil?
There are often used pistons for sale on ebay if wanting to go that route.
In Sweden a used good engine is about 10000dollar, and a repair of old one might actually be cheaper.

But!
It is needed some knowledge to do it

BLKROKT

Well that’s a supremely stupid idea above. Figures it’s coming from the resident Mr Knowitall.

Sure just remove the engine and get the damage welded up, then get your hands on the proprietary super-top-secret twin-wire arc sprayed coating that Mercedes uses that genius there can’t even be bothered to look the name up of. It’s “Nanoslide” by the way. Or put new liners and pistons in? Why do you give consistently bad advice, all the time?

OP - a used engine is the way to go. If you live in the US they are plentiful and relatively cheap. Spend some time looking for one. Good luck.

swedepat

Well, you my beloved friend keep coming up with .... comments also, you got some SERIOUS problems.
I tried to show that there are other ways to repair an engine(i just didn´t write a novel about it), and just because i didn´t google the correct name of the the coating i'm just solid dumb in your eyes, low,, REALLY LOW!.
You find the most small things to try to make me(AND others) look stupid, the only one stupid is you.
You my friend is a pure narcissist, Try to bite your thumb before writing down the bs you write.
It just keep on bringing down the level of the discussions all the time.
You keep writing post and likes posts that are making people look stupid, this just means that it is YOU that has built an false aura around your person, you are weak and can´t meet knowledge with knowledge.
You´re just what they call it?, a bully? a troll? keyboard warrior? keyboard psychopath?
I´m so way above you in knowledge so i actually understand your hate towards me, i threaten your position here on the forum <3 <3 <3

Every engine builder knows that if used pistons has about no wear, they will work very good with new rings(yes it is possible to find new ones cheaper than AMG), they won´t be brand spanking new, but they will be about the same level as that 'used engine' you know nothing about.
And lets say OP´s engine got some pistons that are in good working order, he don´t need to buy eight.
And lets say OP want´s to reline the engine with new Darton sleeves or similar, he can buy quite good brand new pistons from JE or something similar.
And by that get an upgraded engine, and also maybe can put some nice H-beam rods inside it also.
He can also use my drawings to upgrade camphasers cheap.
And in the end get a way sturdy engine that will bring up the value on his car.
Also he might even be able to bring up the capacity of engine also, to get some more power =)

Sleeved block here on MBworld by blackboost, if having a good contact with a engineshop it can be cheaper.


Or: http://www.powersealusa.com/ (whatdidyaknow,, i googled it)
Dunno the prices in the us, but in Sweden it is about 2700$ (a lot of money left to buy parts)

BLKROKT

Stalk me much? That’s gross dude. You’re super creepy looking for a picture of me.

The easiest and most straightforward thing for the OP to do is just drop in a used engine. He’s not building a spaceship like you think you are. Stop being a showoff, nobody cares.

BTW “your” camphaser drawings? LOL you make me laugh you sad pathetic little man. Great job reinventing the wheel after no less than 4 other people posted detailed specs and drawings and had already made them months ahead of you. Yours even come with an extra hole for weight savings. Great job! LOL I hope they shatter in your engine loser.

swedepat

Here is a good kit with rods and pistons, for use with ALUSIL
https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer...cees-m156.html

Or pistons separate:
https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer...om-piston.html
And if lucky, there might be possibilities to find a set of good oem pistons: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...d-pistons.html

I dunno price in the states of own customdesigned rods, but as i am friend with a guy making one of the best brand on Tellus(autoverdi) i can get away with about 1300$ for the rods.
In total i´m at 6400$ + bearings(1049$) https://www.weistec.com/bearing-assembly-m156

Doing this and engine is brand new and you know what´s inside, a used engine you know nothing and it is possible to be scammed.
But yes, there are cheap ones on craigslist and ebay that might work, but i know the route i would take.

hachiroku

the cylinders are sprayed with Twin-Wire Arc Spray (TWAS) aka Nanoslide. a technique created by Mercedes and doesn't have the failures of other liners.

a used replacement engine is probably your best bet. if you're located in America they run for 4-8k. where are you located?

ertech

thanks all for the great advice . I am old enough to know what a pandora box is . once I open , metal everywhere , passages ,crank bearing and the list goes on ....rebult can be very very expensive .
looking for an engine , I just hope the crashed car engines don't tick lol, anyways my cams and adjusters are fine on mine and that would be an easy swap.
found a local engine with a note from the scap yard that the 2 bottom oil pans were removed and they did a sloppy job with sealant . thats could be a good thing since I would anyways reseal the pans before bolting engine back on.
are E , CL ,C class engine all compatible for wiring etc.. I know some pans and oil pumps could be different ??
can engine from top be removed without the trans ?if so How many hours about? does not look to complicated
car is a C63 2013 P31


thanks

Mort

Alldatadiy say it takes 10.7 hours to replace the engine without transfer of parts (Does Not Include: Transfer Of Any Parts Of Engine Or Replacement Of Optional Equipment.) and 13 9 hours with transfer of parts (Includes: Transfer All Fuel & Electrical Units. Does Not Include: Transfer Of Optional Equipment.)

Diabolis

If you are mechanically inclined and able and willing to work on it on your own, for as long as the short block assembly of the donor motor is OK, you're golden. I would probably take the heads off anyway from the donor motor, at which time you can reuse you own cams assuming they're in better shape, check the lifters, timing chain, tensioner, plastic guides etc. etc. and replace whatever may be needed. The bottom end on these engines is pretty robust... I don't know if you perhaps have a bad tune that has now killed your engine twice.

ertech

This is the list of things I will do on the donner
1- valve cove /front cover gasket
2-intake gaskets / bolts
3-pcv
4-oil filter housing
5-engine mounts
6-oil coller line gaskets ( side of motor )
7- reseal pans
8- cam/ lifters adjusters if needed .
9- front and real crank seal

do I need the guys at 90000mi ?
am I missing anything
thanks

BLKROKT

Yes, replace the plastic guides. They get brittle over time. With 10+ years and 90k miles on them already, it’s just the smart thing to do. I don’t think you want to open up the engine again in a few years.

ertech

Guides easy to do with engine out ?

swedepat

If taking front cover off they are a piece of cake.

ertech

Can’t find the part number for these rails
are they sold with the chain ?
thaks

Diabolis

A1560520616

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-1560520616