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I've done a lot of video watching and thread reading on this. Wanted to clear up a few things before I start this project. If I use the harder plates from 63 motorsports, is it REQUIRED to run the adaptation? I don't have the proper diagnostic tools to do that myself. My options would be to not do it at all, or have my local indie shop do it. Assuming the timing is correct and I get everything back mechanically sound in my own garage, is the car driveable to my indie shop for the adaptation?
My camshafts looked really good but I'm debating swapping out the lifters. Car has 72k, but my passenger side intake is making that god awful noise.
I have the same miles and recently did the plates. Didn’t do the adaption for the till like 2k miles later and honestly didn’t notice a difference. I’d def say its a good idea in case theres any difference in ecm. Be sure to use new cam bolts and friction washers.
I have recently remanufactured my gears and started my engine.
No error codes at all after several starts, i have also diagnosed after startup to see if there is any intermittent codes hiding before it lights up the light.
Nothing so far, values sits pretty at idle: intake 28 degrees both banks and exhaust -15 degree both banks
Thanks for the input guys! I'm going to take a lot of photos and post my progress. Still have to do the PCV/manifold gaskets first. Not sure why I didn't do this when I replaced the injectors a few months back
Recommendation: change out the m8 aluminium bolts for the intake manifold, those cant be torqued a lot at all.
I replaced mine with allen 10.9 bolts and torqued them to 25Nm
And, there´s a LOT of guides on youtube and here on mbworld for doing a good job on the gears.
Remember buying new diamond washers thou.
Thanks. I bought new manifold bolts since I know they are torque to yield. I won't re-use the old ones.
I bought the new plates and Ti screws (figured why not) for the adjusters from 63 motorsports so I'll be doing that sometime in the future. I figured "while I'm in there" my camshafts looks great for the mileage. Any value is swapping out the lifters? If so, which ones should I get? I read some threads saying the BS lifters aren't worth it. FCP has these but they are made in Japan... anyone used them?
I also just completed this with 63Motorsports Stage I plates. I didn't do the adaptation for a few days until my buddy let me use his Autel to do it, didn't notice any difference per say but is peace of mind knowing it's done. I have a video of the sequence I used if needed on my channel.
Thanks. I bought new manifold bolts since I know they are torque to yield. I won't re-use the old ones.
I bought the new plates and Ti screws (figured why not) for the adjusters from 63 motorsports so I'll be doing that sometime in the future. I figured "while I'm in there" my camshafts looks great for the mileage. Any value is swapping out the lifters? If so, which ones should I get? I read some threads saying the BS lifters aren't worth it. FCP has these but they are made in Japan... anyone used them?
I used these, they are top coated just don't have sides coated like the black series lifters. For the price and being lifetime from FCP, couldn't justify the BS lifters. By the time IF they ever get worn down again, hopefully some billet camshafts have been produced for a decent price and I can do this job again with those involved
The new regular lifters are a 159 part number and the top is coated, the black series ones the top and sides are coated and they are lighter for higher revs, not sure the black series ones are worth the premium unless you are going to try to raise the rev limit as the sides I don't think have any wear issues just the tops. The coating is gray not black, not sure the difference but both are apparently to reduce wear.
The new regular lifters are a 159 part number and the top is coated, the black series ones the top and sides are coated and they are lighter for higher revs, not sure the black series ones are worth the premium unless you are going to try to raise the rev limit as the sides I don't think have any wear issues just the tops. The coating is gray not black, not sure the difference but both are apparently to reduce wear.
would you mind providing the part number in full please?
would you mind providing the part number in full please?
The part number is 1560500225, sorry I mispoke about the part number, I thought they updated it to start with 159, but it stayed 156, but this is the latest lifter that was never used in the C63 but was used in the last M159 engines and supersedes all previous versions - it has the updated valves to stop the bleed down and has a coated top surface to help with wear. It is typically about half the price of the SLS BS ones around 20 bucks.
The part number is 1560500225, sorry I mispoke about the part number, I thought they updated it to start with 159, but it stayed 156, but this is the latest lifter that was never used in the C63 but was used in the last M159 engines and supersedes all previous versions - it has the updated valves to stop the bleed down and has a coated top surface to help with wear. It is typically about half the price of the SLS BS ones around 20 bucks.
The new regular lifters are a 159 part number and the top is coated, the black series ones the top and sides are coated and they are lighter for higher revs, not sure the black series ones are worth the premium unless you are going to try to raise the rev limit as the sides I don't think have any wear issues just the tops. The coating is gray not black, not sure the difference but both are apparently to reduce wear.
Probably right, regardless you can get the others from there as well for about $19 bucks a pop, FCP is $25.
That site is just really great for getting MB parts without having to pay that middle man premium.
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