Just purchased a 2010 E63. I know this is the W204 section, but it seems like there is a lot more m156 action over here than in the W212 section.

Super nice car, bone stock, 60k miles. Runs excellenct but does have a pretty bad rattle at cold start. Im sure we all know its probably the camshaft asjusters, so i preparing to rebuild them with 63 motorsports plates. I've done a good amount of research and am fairly confident about the process but did have a few lingering questions:

1. In some videos, it seems like there is a 5mm bolt you can insert into the back of the adjuster that locks the two gears together. Other videos, you need a "holder" tool. The timing kits usually only come with one. How do we know what cars have this built in lock feature, and what cars will need the tool? If i rebuild one adjuster at a time, one timing tool should be sufficient correct?
2. Adjuster plates, Valve cover gaskets, adjuster cover gaskets, cam bolts and cam washers. Any other parts i'm missing?

Any other tips, tricks, writeups or videos you guys can think of would be much appreciated!

 

You'll have a little more room to work in the E class at least. You'll probably have to take the belt off to see the timing number on the harmonic balancer. You might want to replace the tensioner/idler pulleys while you're doing that work. I re-used my head cover bolts which MB claims are 1 time use (they aren't TTY so I don't see why they are 1 time only), but I had an issue with 1 backing out and the gasket leaking a little. I replaced with a new one and it didn't leak again. I'd get a few extra bolts or all new ones if you want to be extra safe.

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-question.html

Read this thread.

 

If you have an engine with plastic valve covers, the bolts are indeed TTY single-use aluminum bolts designed to stretch when properly torqued.

The OP's car is a 2010 (so engine probably made in 2009) likely with metal valve covers - so new head bolts are a must if they haven't already been replaced.

I'd also replace the lifters with the updated ones.

 

Update: Order my 63 motorsports adjuster plates. Also have in my cart at FCP euro:

Valve cover gaskets (X2)
Timing cover gaskets (X2)
Cam Adjuster bolts (X4)
Cam adjuster diamond washers (X4)
M156 Head Bolt kit (X1)

Still kind of undecided if I should do the head bolts while i'm in there, but im leaning towards it.

Need to order a timing tool kit. Why do the kits only come with backlash holder tool? Won't I need two if I want to remove both adjusters at the same time? I guess some of the adjuster might have an M5 threaded hole you can use to hold them on the back?

 

Add to your list the valve cover gaskets for spark plug holes x8 (unless you are getting kits that include them with the valve cover gaskets (the donut seals should be orange for the plastic covers and green for the aluminum covers.)
I would also do new valve cover bolts if you have the plastic covers https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-0109906704

You only need one backlash tool if you do one cam adjuster at. time, but if you are taking them both off or taking them apart to replace the plates, it doesn't matter you can just put it on one and tighten it and it will pull the backlash gear into line and then you put it on pop off the holder and put it on the next one - they are easy to line back up with the little tool or just watch Tasos - he has a video on aligning it by hand without a tool.

 

Thanks for the tips. My car has the silver aluminum valve covers, so i think I should be good on bolts. My Valve cover kit includes green spark plug seals as well.

I guess the backlash question comes down to whether or not I do the headbolts. If I do, i obviously need to remove both adjusters at the same time. Once the adjuster is off the car is there a way to lock the two gears so I can remove the tool and put it on the other adjuster? I'm sure this will make more sense once im elbows deep in the project, just trying to make sure I have all thre parts and tools I need so I won't get held up.

 

you really don't need to lock the 2 wheels while it is off the car, just for install do the two gears need aligned with the tool and it is easy to re-align them so not required to keep them aligned while off (and you have to remove the tool if you are rebuilding them anyway).

Tasos helps explain

 

The alu-mag covers have a higher likelihood of having adjusters with the m5 bolt lock at the back of the adjuster.

i much prefer the bolts as they are easier to use and you can lock two adjusters at the same time but we have multiple locking keys regardless.

They also fit much easier with the front cam locking tool in place.

I’ve said this before but you can lock both banks with one set of locking tool with both valve covers off.

step 1. Verify that both locking tools fit one bank of choice, bank 1

step 2. Take the rear locking bar and transfer it to the other side, bank 2

step 3. Work on the bank with the rear locking bar in place

Having the front cam locking tool on the opposite bank (bank 1) locks the crank in place at 40 and frees up space at the front for the adjusters to be worked on bank 2 in this example

You technically speaking wouldn’t need to check the 40 degree mark if both banks are locked with the tools in place. You’re essentially not changing anything and working on the engine keeping it in the TIMED AS-IS state. Still advisable to check the 40 timing mark though. Just shine a snake cam down.

Remove adjusters one at a time and rebuild. This keeps three phaser gears locked with the crank decreasing incorrect timing issues.

the m5 bolts are also easy to find at your local hardware store just a 10 mm length will work.

DO NOT DROP THE BOLT INSIDE THE ENGINE

DO NOT FORGET TO TAKE THE BOLTS OUT WHEN DONE