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The tappets are the same they just have a different coating on them, we have a SLS black series profile, but not one for standard SLS 159. I would imagine the stock sls cams will have the same issue, but there are so few of them and they all go straight to the dealership we never hear about it.
I will be undertaking this project shortly, as it appears with 63 Motorsports. This would include stage I cams, SLS black lifters, 63 Motorsports stage II lockplates w/pins & springs, 63 Motorsports titanium adjuster bolts, ARP camshaft bolts, ARP bridge bolts and OEM gasket set. I have a few questions and will be grateful for your help:
1.- Any "while I am in there's" I should consider?
2.- Do I need one or two sets of timing tools sets?
3.- Which timing tool set would you recommend?
4.- Which thread Locker would you recommend for use with the ARP adjuster bolts?
5.- Which thread Locker would you recommend for use with the ARP camshaft bolts?
6.- Which assembly lube would you recommend
7.- Which high zinc content oil additive with a ZDDP count of more than 1400 would you recommend?
8.- While I await for my cams, I would like to have my original wheels refurbrished; could you recommend the best and most professional specialized shop to do this?
I will be undertaking this project shortly, as it appears with 63 Motorsports. This would include stage I cams, SLS black lifters, 63 Motorsports stage II lockplates w/pins & springs, 63 Motorsports titanium adjuster bolts, ARP camshaft bolts, ARP bridge bolts and OEM gasket set. I have a few questions and will be grateful for your help:
1.- Any "while I am in there's" I should consider?
2.- Do I need one or two sets of timing tools sets?
3.- Which timing tool set would you recommend?
4.- Which thread Locker would you recommend for use with the ARP adjuster bolts?
5.- Which thread Locker would you recommend for use with the ARP camshaft bolts?
6.- Which assembly lube would you recommend
7.- Which high zinc content oil additive with a ZDDP count of more than 1400 would you recommend?
8.- While I await for my cams, I would like to have my original wheels refurbrished; could you recommend the best and most professional specialized shop to do this?
Have finally pulled the trigger with 63 Motorsports. Am awaiting to receive Stage I road camshafts, stage II lockplates, SLS Black Series lifters, ARP bridge bolts, ARP camshaft bolts, titanium adjuster bolts and full gasket set. Ordered two CTA Manufacturing timing tool sets, 3 bottles of ZDDplus additive, blue Locktite threadlocker, and Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube. I need to decide which engine oil to use. At 25,000 miles moved from Mobil 1 SAE0W-40 to Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 with Ceratec. Car has now 29,500 miles and next oil change, due at 31,000 miles, will coincide with this top end procedure.
63 Motorsports recommended procedure calls for a 30 minute initial startup of engine after completion of procedure. Do I need to change the oil at beginning of procedure as to have fresh new oil at initial startup, or should I just drain the amount of oil I am going to add of Zddplus? After initial 30 minute startup, an oil change is called for this oil to be used for next 1,000 miles. If an oil change is required before beginning project, as well as for the oil change before the 1,000 mile break in procedure, I intend to use Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40. After 1,000 mile break-in procedure another oil change is required. At this point after break-in process completed, and going forward, given the performed upgrades, what would you recommend?:
- Continue using Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 with Ceratec.
- Use Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 without Ceratec.
- Go to Liqui Moly Molygen SAE 5W-40.
- Go back to 0W-40 and use Liqui Moly Synthoil Energy 0W-40.
Fresh oil is always best. In saying that if you are just initial breaking in cams and changing it you are probably fine with your existing oil, as it's just to get the initial wear in metals and assembly lubes off the cams and components anyways.
Received all 63 Motorsports parts. All perfect! Customer service and attention by Jan way above any reasonable expectations! Everything required for install ready and prepared. I would very much appreciate your advice; are there any "while I am in there´s" I should be taking advantage of in this process? Check torque of head bolts?
I just recently installed these cams and lifters as well. "while i was in there" i also replaced all idler pulleys and tensioner, new power steering reservoir and fluid flush, new coolant reservoir, rebuilt the intake manifold (fixed cracks & corrosion, sealed, painted, all new vacuum hoses), and added a 63motorsports catch can. You dont have to do any of those in order to replace the cams/lifters, but thats what i wanted to tackle while i had the downtime waiting for the cams to come back. Good luck! Just be patient and methodical and should go well.
A few minutes ago, while inspecting parts for re-assembly, I noticed (i) valve covers are damaged, apparently when they were opened 20,000 kms ago for lifters and lobes inspection, and (ii) one coil is broken.At the outset the most disturbing issue is to think where did the two broke plastic legs on the bank 1 cover went. Theory is that it was broken a couple of years ago, and nothing has happened since, so no worries; however, no one can be sure if they were broken then or now (even if both the mechanic and me were paying attention). I guess, nothing to do about it and move forward?I would be grateful for your suggestions on what would you do in my place; I will find and order the two new covers and coil(s).
1.- Should/could I only buy one new OEM coil, or would you buy the complete set? About US$300.00 difference.
Can I go ahead with this project by using the broken coil with the damaged covers and used gaskets for first start and break-in 1,500 kms while I get new parts and install new parts upon completion of break-in period? Or better wait to receive new parts (at least 2 weeks)?
Should I open the oil carter in trying to locate the broken cover legs, and change carter gasket in the process? Do something else about it? Accept it, forget it and cross fingers?
Project has stopped a week ago due to loss of the washer, and might be on hold for some additional time depending on your suggestions; should I re-lube lifters, lobes and cam supports again with assembly lube upon moving forward?
Replacing the coils would probably be the best choice, I believe its something most people do by 150k miles/200k km or whatever translation that may be.
Relatively cheap to do and considering the age of the car, probably not a bad idea.
I think that in terms of ignition coil alone, OEM is enough to handle all working conditions, including supercharged and naturally aspirated. IP ignition coil is not very cost-effective
Last edited by PP-PRO_C63; 08-02-2023 at 10:25 AM.
Project is complete. Everything a sucess so far. No learning process was required. Car functions perfectly. Followed 63 Motorsports complete process instructions to the letter. 700 km. into 1,500 km break-in period and still following instructions to the letter. Still using Liqui Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf. I would appreciate your views on whether this is still the correct choice of engine oil, as well as whether it would be still convenient to use Ceratec periodically ( every other oil change?). Engine oil and filter changes every 10,000 kms (6,214 miles). Jan's attention and support at 63 Motorsports well above and beyond any expectatioins!!
05-20-2023 | 12:01 PM
