has anyone dealt with these codes?

recently did a top end rebuild to deal with phaser rattle. Used 63motorsport stuff, and for the longest time, I was dealing with cam to crank problems. For whatever reason, when I’d torque passenger side cam bolt, it would pull slack out of the tensioner, and when I’d hand crank the engine, passenger cams would be out 10°. So every time id test drive the car, it drove like a bat out of hell. Could bang gears, all that. But at crawling speeds, it would buck until you were driving like 10 mph.

i finally got the cams to be all aligned with no more out of alignment when I’d hand crank the engine. But now I got these codes. It happened after I finally got most of the cams good. I had bank 1 exhaust cam to crank code, but drove good. I drove and data logged for about 20-30 minutes, turned the car on and off 3 times and used my scanner to check codes if anything new has came up. Then I drove for about 2 minutes after 3 start and stop, and it started running a bit rough. Had good power, didn’t feel down, but you get the occasional misfire feeling. Pulled over and scanned and got these codes.

I’ve never seen them, and have no idea what’s causing it. I no longer have cam to crank codes, and yesterday I pulled all the covers to get timing, and they’re spot on. I’m not sure if it’s sensors/solenoids going bad, can’t find any info on them other than for other models.

car is tuned by Barry, full exhaust, no cats. Last time I data logged for Barry, he said exhaust phasers were locked and not opening, which I thought that was potentially because of cam to crank codes. Intake were doing what they were supposed to.

last time I drove the car, I put liquimoly injector cleaner in the fuel, I was a bit low on oil(was down to the second red mark on dipstick), that was because I dry cranked the car with fuel fuses pulled so I could originally check timing with proper oil pressure built so I knew that the tensioner was doing it’s thing.

harness has be completely striped and reloomed as I had to fix some exposed wires that had their shielding crack from the heat. So no oil. I religiously clean the connectors with a cleaner so no oil. My battery is super dead, so I’m buying a new one on Monday, so not sure if that was playing a role. One of my EGR valves had a broken flap on the inside, so I replaced that as well this weekend.

hope someone can help me figure this out.

thanks in advance.

Well if you didn't have these codes before and you do now, It is something you did. When the ecu doesn't like the position of the cams it will disable adjustment. You either pinched or damaged wires or timed the engine wrong. The answer is really that simple.

Also these engines don't have egr. They use the camshaft adjustment to egr. They have secondary air injection. Even with a bad flap that will not cause camshaft codes.

That comment does nothing to help. Lmfao! I’ve timed this engine a dozen times, pulled the covers off the other day, hand cranked it a few times, and everything lined up perfectly.

So do you either know anything about the codes, or not? Because timing is spot on, then hand cranked again multiple times to check timing.

how does it go from cam to crank codes, because passenger side was out of align, to all cams and pilots being aligned and having deviates from specified values codes?

I also redid the entire engine harness to repair a few dry rot wire shielding on injectors, as well as clean any potential oil build up anywhere if there was any.

The codes mean it's not in time. So you have 2 possibilities...... so you're either not in time - which you claim to be the lord of timing m156 engines. Have you used that specific set of tools before? there are some cheap china ones that are wrong. The left side is actually the drivers side - just trying to help. We know you're best. For all I know you have a light weight under drive non-harmonic balancer pulley for 5hp extra that has timing marks at the wrong spot.

The other possibility is the sensors are reading it out of time - no way all 4 sensors suddenly went bad. Meaning it's really only wiring or ecu. On that note if you had the ecu connected while you pinched a wire or your harness repairs or lack of insulation...that circuit is not fused for the cam sensors it will toast the ecu circuit. I had one where the pulley bearings failed, threw a belt and damaged the wiring. the wiring shorted to ground and fried the ecu circuit. I can also say I've seen a lot of really terrible wiring repairs. Get a meter and ohm out that circuit.

Did you lock the Cam adjusters after testing them or did you leave them open. Also did you use one or two timing tools? The phasers are very very very sensitive, I did the job 3 times and finally got it after purchasing a second timing tool set.