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Are the porterfield pads any better at braking or is it a purely brake dust driven decision?
Louder, better bite or better fade resistance? My brakes get cooked on a fairly regular basis.
Are the porterfield pads any better at braking or is it a purely brake dust driven decision?
Louder, better bite or better fade resistance? My brakes get cooked on a fairly regular basis.
No noise, feels much better than OEM. Less break dust is an added bonus.
Nextzett Colortec is better than Sonax. Also Adams Wheel Cleaner.
I just spent 8 hours on Saturday pulling each wheel off, washing, clay bar each wheel, and sealing with Gyeon Rim Q2. I hope this helps with some of the sticking of the brake dust. At least it will make it easier to clean. I also cleaned, clay barred and sealed each caliper while I was at it.
I didn't go quite as crazy as you (and I mean that as a complement!), but I also pulled each wheel off today to try and treat them to more easily shed brake dust. I cleaned them thoroughly, then sealed them with some Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant because:
1) I like how it looks on the body paint
2) I had a bunch on hand
After sealing them, I topped them with some Armor-All Brake Dust Repellent, which I actually like quite a bit. Really helps shed the dust; it's just tough to get it on the inside barrels when they're mounted.
I then detailed the car itself: washed w/ Dawn to strip any existing wax, dried, then broke out the Porter Cable random orbital. I spot-buffed a few minor scratches w/ some Menzerna 1500, then polished the whole car with Menzerna 4000 SuperGloss. Then hit it with some Zaino Z-2 Pro polish for gloss/shine, and topped with some Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax (which for $15 at Wal-Mart I REALLY like for durability) for protection.
I know I'll go that way eventually, but my cheap side says I should at least try to get 10k out of the stock pads...
Same here.... MY cheapside and YOUR cheapside have clearly been in discussions, of late.
I'm also VERY curious how these pads will impact the rotor life, over time. OEM pads have to change rotors every other brake job, or so.... Will these be better or worse????
Just got my car one week ago with the matt black wheels. Just noticed today that there is so much dust. Calipers are brownish and rims have gone from matte black to almost a rust looking colour.
Just wondering if anyone can tell me if there are low pad indicators on the rear pads as mine have just gone down to metal without any warning last night.
Ive contacted Porterfield for an eta to Brisbane as I now need pads urgently but haven't heard back from them yet.
I could book the car into the service centre today but being Saturday I'm not to sure if the parts department will be open to access genuine pads.
If anyone in brisbane has access to genuine or aftermarket pads today (Saturday) pm me please.
Come to think of it, if anyone in Australia can get pads to me please pm me.
Just wondering if anyone can tell me if there are low pad indicators on the rear pads as mine have just gone down to metal without any warning last night.
Ive contacted Porterfield for an eta to Brisbane as I now need pads urgently but haven't heard back from them yet.
I could book the car into the service centre today but being Saturday I'm not to sure if the parts department will be open to access genuine pads.
If anyone in brisbane has access to genuine or aftermarket pads today (Saturday) pm me please.
Come to think of it, if anyone in Australia can get pads to me please pm me.
Just thought I'd share some photos of my rear brakes.
I replaced the rears with genuine pads at a cost of AU$550 (trade price not retail) including low pad sensor and $230 labour (not Mercedes service).
Note to all, no warning light for low brake pads came up and I got caught out a long way from home when I first heard the dreaded metal on metal sound on my left rear disk rotor.
The low brake pad indicator is only on the right rear pad, drivers side for RHD, passenger side for LHD...
On inspection of the pads you can see the uneven wear from left and right pads and the uneven wear on the damaged left side disk and worn down to metal pad.
Not to sure why the left side wore quicker then the right but point to self, don't rely on the low pad indicators to warn you that your pads are getting low.
New genuine pads and a light disk machine and I'm back on the road.
Metal pad backing on metal rotor eeek! Genuine pads and low brake sensor Brake sensor did not activate due to uneven wear from left and right sides
Just got the warning light at around 18,000 miles. Going with Porterfield, but man are they expensive. Twice as much as MB pads but, if they are dustless (almost) and stop better then I suppose thats the way to go.
I might add that the rears are the ones setting off the warning, the fronts have about 25% life left.
Just got the warning light at around 18,000 miles. Going with Porterfield, but man are they expensive. Twice as much as MB pads but, if they are dustless (almost) and stop better then I suppose thats the way to go.
I might add that the rears are the ones setting off the warning, the fronts have about 25% life left.
I have them. They stop better, last longer, less dust, but still a lot of dust. I'd go with them over OEM pads any day of the year. I love them.
I have them. They stop better, last longer, less dust, but still a lot of dust. I'd go with them over OEM pads any day of the year. I love them.
I find one thing odd about the poterfields, the fronts seem to have next to no break dust in the fronts... the rears however do have a build up of break dust after 2 weeks - Still better than OEM.
Based on my experience with OEM pads, the rears work twice as hard, wear out twice as fast and produce twice as much dust. makes sense that the porterfields would have similar results.
Based on my experience with OEM pads, the rears work twice as hard, wear out twice as fast and produce twice as much dust. makes sense that the porterfields would have similar results.
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