Power loss anyone?
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From: Houston
2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
Are the ambient conditions the same?
FI cars will loose a lot of power in the summer months due to the IATs getting high and timing being pulled
You best bet is to log the car with a generic OBD2 scanner and see what the boost and IATs values are rather than depending on the butt dyno.
FI cars will loose a lot of power in the summer months due to the IATs getting high and timing being pulled
You best bet is to log the car with a generic OBD2 scanner and see what the boost and IATs values are rather than depending on the butt dyno.
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C63s
Originally Posted by shardul
Are the ambient conditions the same?
FI cars will loose a lot of power in the summer months due to the IATs getting high and timing being pulled
You best bet is to log the car with a generic OBD2 scanner and see what the boost and IATs values are rather than depending on the butt dyno.
FI cars will loose a lot of power in the summer months due to the IATs getting high and timing being pulled
You best bet is to log the car with a generic OBD2 scanner and see what the boost and IATs values are rather than depending on the butt dyno.
I've tried....
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Joined: Sep 2016
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C63S AMG Coupe
I had this issue myself with it feeling weak. My car was at the dealer for 16 days (sirius radio was cutting out so they replaced the wiring harness, they replaced the rear bumper because it was installed over a clip that was pushing it out, they replaced rear pads and rotors because of horrible squealing at all speeds).
When I finally got the car back stuff must've been reset because my garage door opener was no longer working. My car does feel much better off the line and throttle response compared to before. Not sure all of what they did but I think it has helped some.
When I finally got the car back stuff must've been reset because my garage door opener was no longer working. My car does feel much better off the line and throttle response compared to before. Not sure all of what they did but I think it has helped some.
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From: Toronto, ON
2021 Mercedes C63s AMG Coupe
I will be posting my work order here. This basically fixed it. This is caused by low battery in the car and it basically goes into a limp mode. So you have to reset all the systems in the car separately and then it goes away. Have seen several people with the same problem. I think this a very simple fix for all of you guys.
Last edited by munis; Oct 13, 2017 at 12:19 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
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2007 E350
same thing happened to me, I was sitting in my garage trying to figure out the command, for an hour & watch a movie for another hour. Then when I got on the highway giver it 20% throttle comfort mode, it doesn't push me back into my seat like before. The first few days when I pick her up, 20-30% throttle in comfort mode on the highway @65mph would push me back into the seat. Feels like its much weaker. I brought her in and told my service advisor about it and he said a drain battery shouldn't have anything to do with power loss. So idk what to do know
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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From: Houston
2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
Seems like a Star C4 system will be a good investment for DIY. You can access all the modules etc to see if any soft codes are stored and clear them.
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2017 AMG c63s
same thing happened to me, I was sitting in my garage trying to figure out the command, for an hour & watch a movie for another hour. Then when I got on the highway giver it 20% throttle comfort mode, it doesn't push me back into my seat like before. The first few days when I pick her up, 20-30% throttle in comfort mode on the highway @65mph would push me back into the seat. Feels like its much weaker. I brought her in and told my service advisor about it and he said a drain battery shouldn't have anything to do with power loss. So idk what to do know
It was the most frustrating experience I have had with any car. But luckily I have a great local MB mechanic so I do not have to deal with the dealership. This issue really sucks but is an easy fix when dealing with a competent mechanic.
My suggestion is to speak to someone else at your dealership, try another dealership or try to find an authorized MB mechanic that works on the new AMG's. If you are in Los Angeles message me and I will give you a number to call
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Joined: Nov 2016
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2007 E350
I have had this exact same thing happen to me and the ONLY way to fix it is to have either MB or a certified MB mechanic reset all the computer systems. It CANNOT be done by disconnecting the battery or resetting something through the ODBII.
It was the most frustrating experience I have had with any car. But luckily I have a great local MB mechanic so I do not have to deal with the dealership. This issue really sucks but is an easy fix when dealing with a competent mechanic.
My suggestion is to speak to someone else at your dealership, try another dealership or try to find an authorized MB mechanic that works on the new AMG's. If you are in Los Angeles message me and I will give you a number to call
It was the most frustrating experience I have had with any car. But luckily I have a great local MB mechanic so I do not have to deal with the dealership. This issue really sucks but is an easy fix when dealing with a competent mechanic.
My suggestion is to speak to someone else at your dealership, try another dealership or try to find an authorized MB mechanic that works on the new AMG's. If you are in Los Angeles message me and I will give you a number to call
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Thread Starter
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MY17 C63s Sedan
Ok here is the verdict at least for me. After months of dealing with this and trying different things I finally went to a local merc mechanic thanks to Mazyo! When they hooked it up to the system ( I presume Xentry ) they found miscommunication between the ECU/ME causing lowered performance. At that time I asked them why didn't the dealer tell me this when I took it in and they just shrugged and said it is possible they didn't want to do anything with it or didn't really look.
So to shorten the story, after they "reprogrammed" the ECU/ME, all my power is back. He said he has seen many 63s with this same issue due to low voltage tripping the "limp" mode and said once that fault code is registered, it has to be removed/reprogrammed to have it reset.
At the time ( earlier in this thread ) I thought to myself low voltage couldn't be an issue with my car but then it hit me. I have two Cellink B batteries that powers my dashcams and it charges when the car is ON. So I am guessing a couple of times when I went to get carwash, they must of left the ACC ON and that will trigger the charge and thus drained part of my battery enough to trigger a low voltage fault.
So my recommendation to you if you have this similar issue is take it to several mechanics if one says nothing is wrong ( like they did to me at the dealer ). My second recommendation is if you have many accessories like hardwired radars and dashcams even if they're only ACC HOT, invest in a deep cycle battery. I would recommend the Optima Yellow Top but they don't make ones that fit our cars last time I checked so perhaps the Duralast Platinum AGM battery would be the next best one which does fit our cars.
In closing mystery solved! At least for me.
So to shorten the story, after they "reprogrammed" the ECU/ME, all my power is back. He said he has seen many 63s with this same issue due to low voltage tripping the "limp" mode and said once that fault code is registered, it has to be removed/reprogrammed to have it reset.
At the time ( earlier in this thread ) I thought to myself low voltage couldn't be an issue with my car but then it hit me. I have two Cellink B batteries that powers my dashcams and it charges when the car is ON. So I am guessing a couple of times when I went to get carwash, they must of left the ACC ON and that will trigger the charge and thus drained part of my battery enough to trigger a low voltage fault.
So my recommendation to you if you have this similar issue is take it to several mechanics if one says nothing is wrong ( like they did to me at the dealer ). My second recommendation is if you have many accessories like hardwired radars and dashcams even if they're only ACC HOT, invest in a deep cycle battery. I would recommend the Optima Yellow Top but they don't make ones that fit our cars last time I checked so perhaps the Duralast Platinum AGM battery would be the next best one which does fit our cars.
In closing mystery solved! At least for me.
Last edited by amg8; Nov 5, 2017 at 08:26 PM. Reason: typo
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 234
Likes: 31
From: Kent, UK
2018 E63S,2016 C63 S Edition 1 Coupe(gone), 2011 640D M Sports Coupe, 2015 435i M Sports Coupe
Ok here is the verdict at least for me. After months of dealing with this and trying different things I finally went to a local merc mechanic thanks to Mazyo! When they hooked it up to the system ( I presume Xentry ) they found miscommunication between the ECU/ME causing lowered performance. At that time I asked them why didn't the dealer tell me this when I took it in and they just shrugged and said it is possible they didn't want to do anything with it or didn't really look.
So to shorten the story, after they "reprogrammed" the ECU/ME, all my power is back. He said he has seen many 63s with this same issue due to low voltage tripping the "limp" mode and said once that fault code is registered, it has to be removed/reprogrammed to have it reset.
At the time ( earlier in this thread ) I thought to myself low voltage couldn't be an issue with my car but then it hit me. I have two Cellink B batteries that powers my dashcams and it charges when the car is ON. So I am guessing a couple of times when I went to get carwash, they must of left the ACC ON and that will trigger the charge and thus drained part of my battery enough to trigger a low voltage fault.
So my recommendation to you if you have this similar issue is take it to several mechanics if one says nothing is wrong ( like they did to me at the dealer ). My second recommendation is if you have many accessories like hardwired radors and dashcams even if they're only ACC HOT, invest in a deep cycle battery. I would recommend the Optima Yellow Top but they don't make ones that fit our cars last time I checked so perhaps the Duralast Platinum AGM battery would be the next best one which does fit our cars.
In closing mystery solved! At least for me.
So to shorten the story, after they "reprogrammed" the ECU/ME, all my power is back. He said he has seen many 63s with this same issue due to low voltage tripping the "limp" mode and said once that fault code is registered, it has to be removed/reprogrammed to have it reset.
At the time ( earlier in this thread ) I thought to myself low voltage couldn't be an issue with my car but then it hit me. I have two Cellink B batteries that powers my dashcams and it charges when the car is ON. So I am guessing a couple of times when I went to get carwash, they must of left the ACC ON and that will trigger the charge and thus drained part of my battery enough to trigger a low voltage fault.
So my recommendation to you if you have this similar issue is take it to several mechanics if one says nothing is wrong ( like they did to me at the dealer ). My second recommendation is if you have many accessories like hardwired radors and dashcams even if they're only ACC HOT, invest in a deep cycle battery. I would recommend the Optima Yellow Top but they don't make ones that fit our cars last time I checked so perhaps the Duralast Platinum AGM battery would be the next best one which does fit our cars.
In closing mystery solved! At least for me.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
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MY17 C63s Sedan
Since knowing about this and the solution, I am keen to find out how we could do this ourselves. I am not about to purchase any Xentry C3/C4 but was looking into Autel Maxisys Pro which has ECU/ECM programming capability. But too scare to jack things up unless someone which has experience can confirm it works.
Last edited by amg8; Nov 5, 2017 at 08:25 PM. Reason: typo
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
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2007 E350
Unfortunately I don't however I am not sure how useful that information would be because the battery does not stay at that level once it gets charged back up so when you go to test it, it will show in normal operating range.
Since knowing about this and the solution, I am keen to find out how we could do this ourselves. I am not about to purchase any Xentry C3/C4 but was looking into Autel Maxisys Pro which has ECU/ECM programming capability. But too scare to jack things up unless someone which has experience can confirm it works.
Since knowing about this and the solution, I am keen to find out how we could do this ourselves. I am not about to purchase any Xentry C3/C4 but was looking into Autel Maxisys Pro which has ECU/ECM programming capability. But too scare to jack things up unless someone which has experience can confirm it works.
Member
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Nova Scotia
AMG GTR
I took mine to Mercedes today. The code PO61A62 shows up. This is what it says: The torque control of the control unit has a malfunction. The signal comparison is faulty. They tried clearing the code, but every time they started the car, it would come back. So they say I need to purchase a new ECU, due to modification to the control unit, because I had It tuned. So anyone thinking of getting a tune/ flash, might want to get this checked first.
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From: Toronto, ON
2021 Mercedes C63s AMG Coupe
I took mine to Mercedes today. The code PO61A62 shows up. This is what it says: The torque control of the control unit has a malfunction. The signal comparison is faulty. They tried clearing the code, but every time they started the car, it would come back. So they say I need to purchase a new ECU, due to modification to the control unit, because I had It tuned. So anyone thinking of getting a tune/ flash, might want to get this checked first.
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From: Nova Scotia
AMG GTR
I will ask them if they tried that. If they did not I will ask them to, thanks. Ecu cost is $2500 cdn installed.
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From: Toronto, ON
2021 Mercedes C63s AMG Coupe
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na
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
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From: Nova Scotia
AMG GTR
To show you guys what this fault code PO61A62 does, here's a picture of my dyno graph.... And, to answer the question about warranty.... if anything can be attributed to the ECU, or any other modifications, your warranty will be void. I have had all my other cars tuned and modified in one shape or another without any issues. This is my first AMG, what I have learned so far, is that they do not like modifications to their cars. Which to me, is an oxymoron, because AMG started off in 1967 modifying Mercedes engines and cars.
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2007 E350
I took mine out for a drive last night. In comfort mode if I floor half way it'll show 516tq on the screen & when I floor it past kickdown the power stay consistent & doesnt drop to 380. Sport + & race mode drop hp and tq to 386 at around 5k rpm. Took her to the dealer show them this forum. They said they'll hook it up for software update or reboot. Omg this is such a headache... for a 500hp car it doesn't feel like it. My cousin stock audi s4 feels stronger. Can anyone message me their service advisor number 🙏🏻 I'm going to send mine over if my dealer can't fix the problem as there's only few dealers in my area.
Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
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From: Nova Scotia
AMG GTR
I took mine out for a drive last night. In comfort mode if I floor half way it'll show 516tq on the screen & when I floor it past kickdown the power stay consistent & doesnt drop to 380. Sport + & race mode drop hp and tq to 386 at around 5k rpm. Took her to the dealer show them this forum. They said they'll hook it up for software update or reboot. Omg this is such a headache... for a 500hp car it doesn't feel like it. My cousin stock audi s4 feels stronger. Can anyone message me their service advisor number 🙏🏻 I'm going to send mine over if my dealer can't fix the problem as there's only few dealers in my area.
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From: Belgium
polarwhite AMG C63s W205
Battery charge level - does alternator keep it fully charged
I have recently used my car only week-ends. Last week-end I had a 1000km trip, and the next week-end I decided to connect the battery to CTEK MXS 5.0 text@charge device.
I tested the battery, and got "4", which according to CTEK-manual indicates "weak battery".
I was surprised - I thought that 1000km trip few days earlier would have sufficed to fully charge the battery.
I tested the alternator with CTEK, and it gave result "normal".
I do not have any extra power-consuming devices in the car.
I tested the battery, and got "4", which according to CTEK-manual indicates "weak battery".
I was surprised - I thought that 1000km trip few days earlier would have sufficed to fully charge the battery.
I tested the alternator with CTEK, and it gave result "normal".
I do not have any extra power-consuming devices in the car.
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,037
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
I have recently used my car only week-ends. Last week-end I had a 1000km trip, and the next week-end I decided to connect the battery to CTEK MXS 5.0 text@charge device.
I tested the battery, and got "4", which according to CTEK-manual indicates "weak battery".
I was surprised - I thought that 1000km trip few days earlier would have sufficed to fully charge the battery.
I tested the alternator with CTEK, and it gave result "normal".
I do not have any extra power-consuming devices in the car.
I tested the battery, and got "4", which according to CTEK-manual indicates "weak battery".
I was surprised - I thought that 1000km trip few days earlier would have sufficed to fully charge the battery.
I tested the alternator with CTEK, and it gave result "normal".
I do not have any extra power-consuming devices in the car.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 64
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BMW 435i GC
So I had mine checked by a local MB mechanic because I also felt the car feels slow compared to when I got it. There were a few codes related to radar sensors and electronic diff malfunction which he cleared.
I guess that means there isn’t anything wrong with the car and the next logical step is to tune.
I guess that means there isn’t anything wrong with the car and the next logical step is to tune.
