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good to hear you got it done. Did you buy from the same link in this thread? I did and have the blinking issue. They tell me our cars are all a little different, some have the current limiter some don’t...[/QUOTE
I think It's the same if you used the ebay link I posted on this thread. I think the 360 camera models run on high output because they use the lights at night for the 360 camera.
might be. My car seems to have the 360 prep installed but was not optioned with the cameras itself. I had to do the same modification to my passenger side mirror as cars with 360 camera. Btw, do you have the flat antennas in the mirror too? I wonder if they are for lane keep assist, adaptive cruise control or distribution or something else.
might be. My car seems to have the 360 prep installed but was not optioned with the cameras itself. I had to do the same modification to my passenger side mirror as cars with 360 camera. Btw, do you have the flat antennas in the mirror too? I wonder if they are for lane keep assist, adaptive cruise control or distribution or something else.
Yeah mine has the foil antennas too. I think its just radio antennas. not sure. I don't have lane keep assist. I didn't remove the wires. just let that plastic piece it's stuck to hang while I worked.
Yeah mine has the foil antennas too. I think its just radio antennas. not sure. I don't have lane keep assist. I didn't remove the wires. just let that plastic piece it's stuck to hang while I worked.
i actually installed mine with just taking the back cover off. Took me some time and trials to put the new lights in and modify the right hand mirror mount a little. Now just need to find someone who has a OBD programmer to change the current limit settings.
I want this so badly! The link @JUSTIN808 shared is for the US only, seller won't ship to the UK and I cannot find them anywhere. Anyone have a UK seller?
I want this so badly! The link @JUSTIN808 shared is for the US only, seller won't ship to the UK and I cannot find them anywhere. Anyone have a UK seller?
Thanks!
Have you got a friend in the USA? They could ship it to you.
Took me 2 and a half hours but finally got it installed. 4 star screws each mirror, no modification, not blinking. I removed back painted housing first. removed mirror from behind (two plastic clips hold it to the motor adjustment). Driver side easier, more room. passenger side didn't want to cut out the post blocking it so I gently pushed plastic mirror frame down making enough room to remove oem and replace with new one. I have 360 camera so cameras need to be removed (2 of the 4 star screws each side). unplugged old and plugged in new and they work. I assume that 360 camera puts power on high output because I noticed the lights come on when 360 camera is activated at night to help provide light to see. Basically I took off back plate and removed what I needed to get access to mirror light housing which needed to be switched out.
I tried to reprogram mine but so far no luck, The company now ships me the "low power version", see attached the difference. You might have the low power version already and therefore no flicker.
I tried to reprogram mine but so far no luck, The company now ships me the "low power version", see attached the difference. You might have the low power version already and therefore no flicker.
not really a valid comparion between day and night. although i hope its more on the subtle side. the second picture you posted is a bit much imo.
i dont get these ebay sellers... if you have 2 versions then how hard is it to list that on the website uhh
not really a valid comparion between day and night. although i hope its more on the subtle side. the second picture you posted is a bit much imo.
i dont get these ebay sellers... if you have 2 versions then how hard is it to list that on the website uhh
I suggest he may have the low power not because of the picture but the fact its not flickering...the high power version might be for people with 360 camera (just a guess). I am still waiting to get the low power version and see how they compare and hope it works then.
Just installed on c63s E1 coupe......
1. Remove mirror cap housing which pops off.
2. Remove 2 screws for 360 camera and use elastic to hang it out of way.
3. Flat head screw driver to pop old unit. Plug in new unit to test light works when unlock and lock.
4. reverse steps to complete and all done!
TIPS
Passenger side is much tightert so I used screw driver to wrestle out old one. Also for new one to slide in is tight and had to pull down on the lower mirror housing for a few mm of space.
No need to remove anything else. Shouldn't take more than 10 min driver side and 20 min passenger side going this way.
Just installed on c63s E1 coupe......
1. Remove mirror cap housing which pops off.
2. Remove 2 screws for 360 camera and use elastic to hang it out of way.
3. Flat head screw driver to pop old unit. Plug in new unit to test light works when unlock and lock.
4. reverse steps to complete and all done!
TIPS
Passenger side is much tightert so I used screw driver to wrestle out old one. Also for new one to slide in is tight and had to pull down on the lower mirror housing for a few mm of space.
No need to remove anything else. Shouldn't take more than 10 min driver side and 20 min passenger side going this way.
Best of luck....they look awesome.
my passenger side would not fit for nothing and little bending did not help. I had to demel off a little slice of the interior plastic holding the glass and motor itself. Btw, how do you trick the light sensor (where is it?) ... mine only come on when its dark outside and lock/unlock....nothing at day time.
My puddle lights turn on day or night any time I use lock or unlock on remote or touch door handle to lock and unlock. As well as when I exit vehicle. I didnt set anything specific to be honest.
On my vehicle settings I also have the welcome lights setting to ON so maybe that's why?
I did think I was going to have to dremel passenger side but I was able to slide it under the window motor mount you spike of. Took 10 minutes of fiddling with a flat head screw driver and pulling slightly downward on the bottom of the mirror housing. It finally popped in place and used screw driver to make final adjustments and pop into clips.
Passenger side does require minor trimming. If you just pop it into place then there’s going to be a huge gap on the mirror.
i am also not sure how the install of the lights would affect that gap...does it push your lower housing down that much? The inner glass motor and mirror mount are way too rigid that the light pressing against it could move it even a little. If indeed it bends your lower housing that much out of shape then you really need to dremel it to fit - even though I can’t evens see how that could happen.
i am also not sure how the install of the lights would affect that gap...does it push your lower housing down that much? The inner glass motor and mirror mount are way too rigid that the light pressing against it could move it even a little. If indeed it bends your lower housing that much out of shape then you really need to dremel it to fit - even though I can’t evens see how that could happen.
you just need to trim the plastic on top so it won’t bend the lower housing. Once you take out the oem lights there should be a small hole then use a clip or anything to take out a little piece of plastic on top before you put the new light in
Update: I took the OEM and aftermarket puddle lights on my test bench and found that the OEM draws 100mA while the aftermarket draws up to 175mA. That is a design flaw that they do not to match the OEM circuit. A load resistor obviously does not help as it does the opposite but I will try a serial resistor to pull it down to ~ 130mA (assuming MB has some margin). If I pull it down to 100mA the light dims quite a bit (3dB estimate or 50%). So, will try that over the weekend (using a high wattage rated resistor to avoid too much heating) and report. I do not know why others dont have that issue, maybe later model years they changed the max current limiter on that circuit...who knows. Btw, these lights get pretty warm and that explains why they are much bigger than the OEM - added heatsink in back.
Here is the output set to 120mA (down from 175mA) and still 20% above OEM of 100mA. Also a close up of the light itself with the resistor inline. Will see tomorrow if that stops the flickering. It certainly was brighter at 175mA but will do if that stops the flicker.
After reducing the max current to 120mA the flicker is now gone. Little dimmer than it was before but it works. Only caveat for me is that my PSM side skirts shadow portions of the logo but that’s okay with me.
On Monday I will confirm the resistor size I used so that anybody who has the same flicker issue can follow.
Congrat!! Look great. How do you pop off the mirror cover?
it’s pretty straightforward. I use one of these small plastic tools for removing door labels and such. Stick it in the bottom seam on the outside and work my way towards door by twisting it and popping the cover off. Then the same on top and it comes off. First time it took me a while as I was super careful. I now have it done a dozen times (also put sequential signal lights in) and it take seconds.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
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