I have been having some H&R lowering springs for awhile now, and have yet to go ahead with the install.

The more research I do, the more issues I come across that others have had with installing on the car.

Has anyone had personal experience with these?

Do they cause fault or error codes with the factory electronic suspension system? (This is one of the more prevalent issues I seem to read about)

Will an alignment at the dealer be sufficient to correct bad tire wear?

Thanks for any information.

Thanks,

B

 

As long as you run the factory shocks you should not have any error codes. I’m running kw has for 2 yrs with no issues/codes. You might need to adjust front camber, but there is no factory adjustment, need aftermarket arms or bushings

 

I don't think he needs a camber kit as the H&R do not lower it that much. Some camber for a moderately lowered car is part of doing it in the first place ...makes wider tires fit 😉 JMO

 

Let me know how that neg camber works out for your front tire life....

 

No pain, no gain 😬...it's an expensive car anyway

 

100% will have camber issue

 

Define camber issues: out of spec = yes, problematic for daily = no...some more wear on tires but it's not going to be an extreme negative camber ...except if you want to make record lap time on race track than it's going to be an issue.

 

So, would the recommendation be to install the KMAC kit to correct the camber, therefore correcting any tire wear issues?

Was really hoping to avoid the KMAC kit as i have no local installers who will touch it. If thats the route I need to take i will most likely need to send the car to Texas (only 4 hours from me, but still a bit of a pain)

 

i've had HR lowering springs on for almost 2 years. tire wear has been fine tbh. got almost 15k kms on my rears. theyre still good for a couple more months but swapping them anyways. no error codes. no issues. it made the ride smoother over stock too.

 

Thanks. Appreciate the info.

Any pictures you could share?

B

 

I have H&Rs installed and I am having some trouble rubbing a little when going over any decent sized bump in the road. Or if I have the car full, it’s every bump.

 

What wheel/tire setup do you run? Running spacers?

 

20x10 and 20x9 RF wheels, don’t remember the offset. 285/30/20 and 255/35/20 tires. No spacers.

 

I've been test fitting new rims recently. these are the updated pics

 

Looks you need camber. Btw, what tires do you have on those 11" rims? 285 or smaller?

 

Love that color wheel on black exterior with red calipers etc. Will look amazing with some negative camber, great work! Someone needs a color correction though

 

yeah i still got work to do to get them to fit how i want. they are 285s i test fitted on there. 19x11 rim.

 

yea the colour has worked out ok. i wanted to do gold so i still might refinish them. will decide later once i sort fitment out. my paint job needs some TLC lol

 

Does anyone know the camber these cars are running stock? Maybe -1 or so?

Ready to get these springs installed...just need to figure out how to handle the tire wear issue.

Thanks,

B

 

You need K-Mac bushings, or else your front tires will last <4K miles.

 

Anyone have a link to where they purchased their KMAC kit?

 

-1.5 to -2.2 all around.

 

Thanks.

Is the KMAC kit for the rear equally as imperative as the kit for the front?

 

For the C63S we really do manufacture a “TOTAL SYSTEM” see below Street (to Full Race – in the pursuit of front row of the grid lap times)


1. Would suggest the Front upper wishbone / inner bush kit (#503316-2 J $380 for full set of 4).

Provides precise Camber and also Caster adjustment. Up to 1.5 degrees Positive or Negative. More than enough to resolve tire wear issues the inaccurate - (one offset position fluted bolts which are not available for the C63 only offer 0.3 of one degree 1/8 inch).
Can install kit without the need to remove the upper arms (bush extraction tool included).
Plus the peace of mind, security of not needing welded, fabricated arms.

2. As above but “Replacement Arms” offering 2.5 degrees Camber and Caster. High strength forged alloy same design as OEM (pair) #503316-3 N $695.

3. Front lower arm Camber and Caster bushings (replacing the 4 highest wearing). Precise single wrench adjustable. Camber up to 1.5 degrees Pos or Neg while the forward facing thrust arm (Caster) bushings are also Mono ball/2 Axis. Significantly improving brake and steering response. KMAC design allows more than twice the load bearing area of spherical bearings that soon pound out. Bush extraction tools included (Full set of 4) #503316K $480

4. REAR – Camber (and extra Toe to compensate) bushings. Up to 1.5 degrees Pos. or Neg. Kit replaces the “lower arm” inner bushes retaining important top of tire to outer fender clearance when wanting to reduce costly, premature inner edge wear.
Or Race days – easy access / single wrench adjustment to alter Camber settings and / or track width. Bush extraction tool included #502226 K $480

5. REAR – Popular uprated bushing kit for the ‘6’ rear multi link arms. Less twitch, flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake #502628 K $480

 

All depends what you're doing with the drop. If its enough to go out of spec its up to you to decide how much out is acceptable without correcting it. Toe, you definitely want as spot on as possible but camber you can get away with if you can live with the uneven wear. If you do something like the h&r static springs (.8"F/.8"R) I wouldn't worry about it. If you went with any of the adjustable springs that go an inch or more lower at the highest setting you will want to look into doing them. You can always do the drop first, let it settle a couple weeks and then throw it on the alignment rack to see which parts would be best to address.

Maybe a bundled package can be done?? $2.5K is a lot to spend for proper camber & toe adjustment. Any pics of the "total system" parts together?