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I found a really nice C63s, exactly the color and everything I always wanted but there are a few concerns I have. The brake rotors look really worn, car was probably on the track a lot. How much do those usually cost to replace?
Also the carfax looks sketchy. The only reported servicing was at 40,000 miles (1 owner) so this guy either did it himself or had some side shop do it before then. I can't imagine him driving that long without an oil change, but who knows.
Current odometer reading is 47,000. Other than that the car looks and sounds great. Any thoughts?
Last edited by CheckOrHold; Feb 6, 2020 at 10:46 PM.
I found a really nice C63s, exactly the color and everything I always wanted but there are a few concerns I have. The brake rotors look really worn, car was probably on the track a lot. How much do those usually cost to replace?
Also the carfax looks sketchy. The only reported servicing was at 40,000 miles (1 owner) so this guy either did it himself or had some side shop do it before then. I can't imagine him driving that long without an oil change, but who knows.
Current odometer reading is 47,000. Other than that the car looks and sounds great. Any thoughts?
Rotors front or rear? The front is very expensive. Rotors and pads probably around $2500 and labors is another $1000 from the dealer. My dealer want $700 for only rear pad and labors.
Forget the dealer when it comes to brakes and rotors especially. Dealer here in Toronto wanted around $5k CAD for rotors and pads excluding labour. Went online and got rotors and pads all around for $2200 CAD.
Fronts just look like surface rust from sitting after a wash. The rears look odd, as the pad is not making full contact with rotor
Just got another pic of the fronts. Would you say it's still a good buy or do you think they'll need to be changed out soon? I plan to drive it on the track once every few months.
Rotors front or rear? The front is very expensive. Rotors and pads probably around $2500 and labors is another $1000 from the dealer. My dealer want $700 for only rear pad and labors.
You really can't tell visually if a rotor is worn unless it has really obvious score marks or something. I just see normal rust, which all rotors have after sitting for more than a few days. Only guaranteed way to tell is to put some calipers on them. If it's a CPO, the dealer should do this for you and tell you the exact thickness. My dealer does this for brakes and tires at every service.
The rust on the rotors is simple surface rust that any rotor will get after sitting for a while or after being washed and not driven.
The uneven look of the rust looks like the car has recently had its brake pads changed, and the new pads have yet to properly seat with the rotors. New pads won't be exactly flush with the rotor, and it takes them a little bit of time to wear flat. Drive it for a few hundred miles or so, let the pads seat, and the rotors will look more uniform.
Rotors front or rear? The front is very expensive. Rotors and pads probably around $2500 and labors is another $1000 from the dealer. My dealer want $700 for only rear pad and labors.
lol, anyone who pays that much for oem brakes doesn’t deserve to own the car. Brakes are cheap and easy to do yourself for a fraction of those prices.
I would stay far away from that. 2016 CPO. Meaning you have a 12 month warranty. That's it.
I'm moving to Germany in 6 months so regardless of what warranty I have, I'll really only have coverage for 6 months. MBUSA warranties do not transfer across borders.
Speaking specifically to the maintenance shown on Carfax: I’ve taken my car in for two scheduled services & another time or two to have warranty work performed. All was done at my local AMG certified MB dealership. However, for some reason, I don’t think any of it shows on the Carfax. If you’re worried about that, just call your loc dealership & have them check the service history.
Yes. Very much. But, what happens when the vehicle is involved in an accident AFTER the CPO? Answer: it stays in tact. Why? Answer: There is no agency, body shop or backyard mechanic that is required to report it to BMW NA. So dealerships are never made aware of the accident. Unless...the problem you are having with the vehicle shows signs of being caused in a prior accident. Busted!
I would stay far away from that. 2016 CPO. Meaning you have a 12 month warranty. That's it.
What kind of an answer is that? So he shouldn’t buy a 2016 MY ever? A 2016 is under full warranty for 4 years, so depending on when it was sold, it still has the balance of the original warranty plus the remaining 1 year CPO warranty. What a worthless comment, these cars are fine out of warranty. There’s a ton of threads out there in this. Do your homework before you make comments like this and potentially scare someone from making an important purchase.
- the half-rusted rotor surface is bothersome, even if the pads are new ... it implies that either the wear on the rotor or the pad seating (or caliper-piston pressure) is quite uneven (from outside to inside)
- you CAN tell whether the rotors need replacing due to reaching their wear limit ... there are "wear holes" (divits, actually) around the inside and outside edges (intermittently, between the thru/vent holes) -- when those have disappeared (i.e., the wear reaches the bottom of those divits), the rotor needs replacing due to wear/thickness (there are other things to look for, as well, such as radial cracks that usually emanate outwards from the holes ... WIS specifies a maximum length for such cracks)
- I assume you also noticed that the rims have been painted/coated, which could be a feature or not
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